'Nova 997 Posted May 24, 2013 Ahahaha..... an electric water pump and thermos on a cortina that has <150 rwkw...... Got anything positive to say about other people's opinions and ideas? 4 NZXD, Supersnake, slydog and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 24, 2013 Ahahaha..... an electric water pump and thermos on a cortina that has <150 rwkw...... In a Corty with the right gearing, that puts you in the 13's... Respect! 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted May 25, 2013 Ahahaha..... an electric water pump and thermos on a cortina that has <150 rwkw...... Pretty sure Tyler06's last engine was somewhere around 270rwhp. 2 slydog and 'Nova reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted May 25, 2013 Pretty sure Tyler06's last engine was somewhere around 270rwhp. Correct which shows about 200rwkw which is more than MANY V8's make at the feet.People only shit on your efforts or success when they them selves have none. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xeeclipse 37 Posted May 25, 2013 Correct which shows about 200rwkw which is more than MANY V8's make at the feet.People only shit on your efforts or success when they them selves have none. Lets not get personal here, everyone has an opinion. Whether you like it or not a viscous fan will maintain engine temp better then any thermo, this can't be disputed it's fact! Why do all commercials, trucks and even late model bmw's run viscous fans? Toyota/lexus drove their fans off the power steering pump (hydraulic pressure) which was the the best of the lot IMO. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted May 25, 2013 Umm your the only one slinging on people and as no one shit on your view till you laid a well practiced strip that no one took your devod. Only need positive or constructive comments not shit on peoples builds or ideas like you did baiting people.This isnt xfalcon in case you didnt notice. 1 NZXD reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted May 25, 2013 I've been holding back on this, as its originally about hydraulic flat tapet cams, but if viscous are that good, Ford must have got the buget model and used on the earlier cars, such as the EB-ED v8's, Mk 5 Cortina Ghia etc. Ive have a few Fords with these on and every single one has got hot at some point, my ED Sprint had one and it got real hot one day, went to Ford, they put another new one on, and not long later it did the same. EF twin elec fans finally sorted it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted May 25, 2013 I've been holding back on this, as its originally about hydraulic flat tapet cams, but if viscous are that good, Ford must have got the buget model and used on the earlier cars, such as the EB-ED v8's, Mk 5 Cortina Ghia etc. Ive have a few Fords with these on and every single one has got hot at some point, my ED Sprint had one and it got real hot one day, went to Ford, they put another new one on, and not long later it did the same. EF twin elec fans finally sorted it! Yeah well if Ford Holden Toyota and such went to electric fans must be a reason and your experience backs that up.Seems your not alone either and as Im switching mine to electric fan this weekend as its getting cold down here and the clutch hub is buggered (2nd one thats been on the car since I owned it) which will alow better temperature control. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tweaker351 148 Posted May 25, 2013 I also use penrite run in oil and joe gibbs paste but i also add in some crane run in additive. Soft springs at 2000rpm minimum. Helps to have good thermo setup and an industrial fan in front to stop her overheating on run in. Yep forgot to mention that too lol. I run the comp cams additive when I do the cam run in also! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tweaker351 148 Posted May 25, 2013 Just a thought, yes we all know thermos free up a bit of hp but surely its not as good as we think........ I wonder how much power the alternator is sucking when we turn our fans on anyway, surely its robbing some of the "gained" hp... I know on my cars you can hear the load on the alternator and feel the rpm drop a tad when the fans are switched on.... Just me thinking out loud 1 gregaust reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 29, 2013 Wow this is getting far out! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 29, 2013 Just a thought, yes we all know thermos free up a bit of hp but surely its not as good as we think........ I wonder how much power the alternator is sucking when we turn our fans on anyway, surely its robbing some of the "gained" hp... I know on my cars you can hear the load on the alternator and feel the rpm drop a tad when the fans are switched on.... Just me thinking out loud Tweaker the point is that the fans come on mostly when stopped, the engine is making no power except for turning itself over. As for hp, they draw maybe 8 amps each, times 12 volts, that's 96 watts, (less than 0.1 kW) or about the same as one high beam headlight. If you had 2 of them, that's 0.2 kW. Your aircon takes shitloads more than that (say 3-5 kW) but nobody ever thinks about that. An engine-driven fan screaming its tits off can chew 5-10 kW. Tractors, trucks, plant equipment or any slow-moving, hard-working machinery might benefit from them but there's absolutely no need for it on a passenger car. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 29, 2013 Anyway... How did we get so far off on a tangent? For those wanting to build a mild Clevo, I just ordered a Crow 21666 with following specs. Adv. Inlet: 270 Adv. Exh : 280 Inlet@ 0.50: 204 Exh@ 0.50: 214 Lift inlet: 0.484 Lift exh: 0.510 LC : 112 A very slight step up from my current one (208/208 @0.50), a bit more exhaust lobe is all. I'll post again once it's in and running (for those still interested). Expecting good torque, but mostly would be nice to get #7 cylinder back after it's had a bludge for a few weeks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OZY351 2 Posted May 29, 2013 The gerg strikes again. ( that's a compliment by the way ) Once again a very interesting subject/s and lots of good info from all Man I wish I understood cam specs more! 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xeeclipse 37 Posted May 29, 2013 That cam signs off between 4000-4500 mate should have got for the single pattern GT cam 215/215 duration. Your cam will do thou if your running 9.1 comp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xeeclipse 37 Posted May 29, 2013 Clevelends like crossflows don't need anymore exhaust duration cause their too big to begin with. split pattern cams are for windsor's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 29, 2013 The gerg strikes again. ( that's a compliment by the way ) Once again a very interesting subject/s and lots of good info from all Man I wish I understood cam specs more! Yeah I know I crap on a bit... Cam specs: Advertised duration is the absolute amount of crankshaft degrees that the "lump" on the cam lobe rises above the base circle from start to finish. It's an indication only. The more important spec you look for in a cam grind is the duration at 0.050" valve lift. This is the accepted industry standard where the point at which all slack and flex in the lifters, pushrods and rockers is taken up, and which any measurable air flow at the valve happens. A hydraulic lifter cam will have a slightly more aggressive ramp up to the lumpy bit than a solid cam, as hydraulic lifters can cushion the shock slightly. This is why you can't interchange hydraulic cams for solids and vice versa. Lift is obvious so I won't explain that, other than the rule of thumb for stock valve gear (on a clevo or crossy is a limit of 0.500 lift. Going bigger than this is pointless anyway, unless you do some port work and fit bigger valves. LC = lobe centres. Also called LSA (lobe separation angle). Confusingly, this spec is measured not by crank degrees but on the actual camshaft itself. If you took the halfway point of both inlet and exhaust lobes of one cylinder and drew an imaginary line through each, the angle created by these lines is measured as "lobe centres". For a given cam duration, a wider LC gives a more sedate idle and good low-end torque. A narrow LC for the same duration gives more valve overlap, so has a lopey idle but comes alive higher in the rpm range. The opening and closing events of both the inlet and exhaust control the rpm at which the cam operates best. You can alter this to an extent by advancing or retarding the cam with a multi-keyway crank gear. That's about it for a crash-course in cam specs 1 Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tyler06 266 Posted May 29, 2013 Something is wrong with Tapatalk ??? <br />Anyways im just gonna go back to working on my <150rwkw corty ;-) 2 gerg and xcsam reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OZY351 2 Posted May 29, 2013 Not at all in my book. I was told by the bloke I bought my engine off many, many moons ago it has a Crane "highway cruiser" in it. Ha, what cliche. I know it's mild but searching on the net haven't found anything. Just curiosity killed the cat type thing and satisfaction brought it back! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 29, 2013 That name might have been his own description of the type of cam it was. Sounds pretty much like the cam I ordered anyway. Even the stuffed cam I have now, with the annular boosters in my carby make it drive like it's got EFI. Fuel economy is not like an EFI though! Pulls in 4th gear from 1000 rpm no sweat. The cam is spot-on for my car, an XE wagon manual with dual stock exhausts that is built for getting to work and carting my kiddies around with all the crap that goes with them. It's just a really cool family car. Gets plenty of attention too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 29, 2013 Clevelends like crossflows don't need anymore exhaust duration cause their too big to begin with. split pattern cams are for windsor's They obviously make those profiles for a reason... I'd say it's to do with better scavenging by starting the exhaust pulse earlier in the cycle to pull it through at the right time as the inlet opens. Works mostly with extractors. For me it's just a guess but Crow have been doing it for years so I trust their experience. It's the cam that they recommended after I gave all the required info. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted May 29, 2013 hey dude, ive had fantastic dealing with Camtech, they're great for advice, and custom grinds (from mild to wild), i've bought over half a dozen cams from them for all different motors and have passed others onto them. (all with fantastic reviews) another option with a fairly stock motor is a comp DEH265 or 275, they're fantastic cams for what they are would reccomend them in any mild motor with little to no portwork, standard rockers are fine with them, you won't bust em, fine with cast pistons too, don't bother revving past 5500 (deh275, 265 will be lower) in a 351 and make huge torque. i would however steer clear of crow, i've had several issues with compenants bought from them including cam lobes wiping due to no hardened coating on the cam to begin with, cams being ground not square, cam sizing not correct, and lack of customer support. i have used wade a few times, but never for anything wild, just mild to warm setups, mainly in E series so i can only speak for those cams and i was happy with them all Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted May 29, 2013 I have tried Camtech,Tighe (never again) Surecam and Clive.Clive will be doing my work from now on based on service,cost,product and time frame.Surecam do awesome work but old Phil is rather sick ATM... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,873 Posted May 29, 2013 Clive did my last cam. He's just up the road from me. Awesome fella to talk to. Cost $450 for a custom ground OHC 6 cam, from a new Crow Cams blank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted May 30, 2013 Yeah I was impressed with the shop and his approach so after 5hrs in a car and 2 minutes talking to him I gave him the camshaft on the spot to grind for me...lol His machine work is on par with Phill Duggan @ Surecam and the cost was very acceptable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
