slydog 7,873 Posted August 11, 2017 On Tuesday, August 08, 2017 at 4:34 PM, CHESTNUTXE said: roller rockers are done ,020 on inlet and 022 on exhaust,i took my time ,about 1 1/2 hours to put studs in and lash rockers. P.S thats actually a hot setting on those and will be too big when running. I set mine to 8th and 10th cold. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 11, 2017 why is it that the exhaust gaskets only fit one way one is reversed is that ok or is there a extractor gasket available ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 11, 2017 3 minutes ago, slydog said: P.S thats actually a hot setting on those and will be too big when running. I set mine to 8th and 10th cold. yeah i noticed a fair bit of play in the pushrod was wondering about that but i have only done hyd settings b4 solid is new to me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted August 11, 2017 Yep studs with a 12 point nut or socket head cap screws. The runner casting gets in the way of that bolt and it's worse the further you step the manifold off the head. You can safely grind away a bit of material and fit a normal bolt head, but who doesn't like socket head caps screws or studs with 12 point nuts. Only one bolt sexier than a socket head cap screw and that's a button head cap screw. Oh they just do it for me those button heads. Yes I know I'm weird. I love acorn nuts on studs... Must love pommy stuff (shoot me now)Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted August 11, 2017 why is it that the exhaust gaskets only fit one way one is reversed is that ok or is there a extractor gasket available ?That's normal. It's so they can make two smaller ones instead of one long piece, or needing separate tooling for making front and rear pieces. Just make one type and flip it for each end... Simple!Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 11, 2017 i mean one side is flat and the other side is like the oppisite ? surley thats not right Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 11, 2017 2 hours ago, slydog said: P.S thats actually a hot setting on those and will be too big when running. I set mine to 8th and 10th cold. could that just be for roller cams sly ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 11, 2017 i spoke to tighe in brizzy and he said 020 will be fine for start up and then check when hot to see which way they need adjusting, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,654 Posted August 11, 2017 I love acorn nuts on studs... Must love pommy stuff (shoot me now)Sent from my CPH1607 using TapatalkOr could just mean you like flatheads 4 CHESTNUTXE, gerg, slydog and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 11, 2017 5 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said: could that just be for roller cams sly ? No it's exactly how I did my flat tappets too. Fastest xflow in the country doe's it and so do I. You will notice the lash setting is stated as a HOT setting and as alloy reacts strongly to heat it will be a big gap. Dean @ Tighe is knob and will tell you anything too. They do the semi on all roller xflow cams and mine is set 1 tooth plus 2 degree's. That is not made up,it's stated in my build thread even. Hence the importance to dial the cam in and I'll bet everything I know it's not cos your engine builder would of said it's not needed in your case on a 6 cyl. There all the same. So again...Id set the lash cold tighter cos when it's hot it's gunna be well over that and can hurt the pushrod tips if revved that way for long like when running a cam in or something??? Reading and listening is the biggest asset everyone has but you also choose how and when you do it. 2 Valvebouncer and Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted August 11, 2017 Agreed. Those settings are way loose. Sprintcar in Cairns run zero lash. There is a reason for that. Pure and simply, heat and its effect on alloy. We set our tappers at 8&10 in mod sedans and never have an issue. Have done it for years. You can even go tighter if you want but for a street car 8&10 or 10&12 will be fine. Cold. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted August 11, 2017 Camtech also recommend similar HOT settings for their camshafts. Recently did a solid roller LS1 and no way was I setting it to their recommendations. When it got temp in it you could hear the slap on the tighter setting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 11, 2017 ok on Sunday I will set them to 8 and 10 thou. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 13, 2017 i put the bell on and a coat of paint 1 deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 13, 2017 and here we go fkn again something aint right same as the t5 i did the slave dont line up with the ball hole Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 13, 2017 thats with the fork fully in the bearing everything seems good on this pic but at the other end it dont line up about 1cm to far in for the pushrod to fit perfect. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 13, 2017 with the fork in the correct spot for the pivot ,and correct line up for the pushrod the fork will only just slot in to the throwout bearing so maybe i need a v8 fork as the one i have is a hyd 6 cyl xb fork ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 13, 2017 lines up spot on in that shot but hmmmmm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted August 13, 2017 How would you go if you drilled a new hole in the fork. Or possibly make up some spacers to space the slave cylinder away from the bell housing? 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 13, 2017 i did that on the last t5 problem,i just had another look at it the fork is correct for that bell as it has a pivot mark line in the fork which when in position lines up perfect with the pushrod,i think that bearing i have may be not the right one but when i orderd it ,they said it suits 6 and 8 cyl >??? all i need is the bearing clip fork holders to be 1cm further in ,and it will be 100% so i will look soon for another bearing they should make one FBJ bearing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 13, 2017 there is a xy-xc bearing and i reckon its the right one,will ring em tomorrow . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 13, 2017 i put the box aside and continue on with the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 13, 2017 i unscrewed the oil mod line and will get another fitting a bit taller,also re-did the roller rockers to 008 010 clearance,put the belt on just to line up the pulleys and alt,waiting for a intake gasket to come to fit the manifold. 1 tpak addict reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,886 Posted August 15, 2017 Could fk that fork pff and go a csc/htb instead of push type slave... 2 Slow250XC and Valvebouncer reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,332 Posted August 15, 2017 i found an original 6cyl clutch bearing with carrier ,was very hard to find,new old stock,cant wait until it gets here to sus it all out,crazy what is that csc your talking about Share this post Link to post Share on other sites