Panko 2,484 Posted April 14, 2017 I can't actually do any of this upgrade until i sort the rear window leak because ill have to take the parcel shelf out anyway, which has a bit of water damage from the leak. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panko 2,484 Posted April 14, 2017 I also decided to get some other electrical tasks done. Interior light just needed a globe fitted, but i didnt want to use a halogen because the heat shield in the light is broken off, and i didnt want the heat of the halogen globe heating up the paint above it on the roof. So i fitted one of these. found it at SCA **note that these are identical to X series wagon load are lights** Looks like a halogen with the colour temp, but its actually an LED made by Narva. its the first time i have come across LEDs for cars that aren't that harsh LED crystal white. and its pretty dam bright. lights up the interior really well from just that 1 light. The next one to fix was the boot light. it comes on with the parker/headlight switch, and stays on as soon as you switch lights on. Well someone had purposely put a bit of cloth under the globe inside the socket to stop the globe from coming on. I assume because they didnt like it running all the time. So it got me thinking, and i ended up putting an inline switch in. So yes I still have to have at least the parkers turned on for it to work, but i can at least turn it off so its not running the whole time i have the parkers or headlights on. I had to be careful how i did it though, because the number plate light feeds off the same wire that the boot light does. I managed make a Y split where the courtesy light plugs into the wiring loom, and add the switch only into the line going to the courtesy lamp. Heres the little switch hidden inside the rear panel and thats about where I'm up to with the car. The next task is to remove the rear windscreen to try and fix this leak 3 2redrovers, Outback Jack and deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dex 2,065 Posted April 14, 2017 The boot light " stays on " with the headlights ,,? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panko 2,484 Posted April 14, 2017 1 hour ago, dex said: The boot light " stays on " with the headlights ,,? yes. thats why i added the switch in. so yes i still need park light/headlight circuit to power it, but its not on when i turn my lights on unless i flick the switch on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dex 2,065 Posted April 14, 2017 That seems odd to say the least . Pain in the butt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2redrovers 21,409 Posted April 14, 2017 Like the stereo.. Something isn't wired right. But your idea with the switch is certainly a serviceable solution. Doubt it's a real problem as most of the time you want a boot light, you already have the lights on as you change that flat tyre in the darkened alleyway. 2 Outback Jack and Panko reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panko 2,484 Posted April 14, 2017 11 minutes ago, dex said: That seems odd to say the least . Pain in the butt 6 minutes ago, 2redrovers said: Like the stereo.. Something isn't wired right. But your idea with the switch is certainly a serviceable solution. Doubt it's a real problem as most of the time you want a boot light, you already have the lights on as you change that flat tyre in the darkened alleyway. I believe its an option. it feeds off the same wire as the number plate light, and there is just a bullet wire joiner that you tap the boot light into, then the boot light has a wire that branches off it to plug the original number plate light in, to complete the circuit again. so its definitely wired correctly, but yes it would normally mean its on the entire time your lights are on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2redrovers 21,409 Posted April 14, 2017 Hey its a British car after all...I'm well acquainted with the quirks of Brit electrical 2 Panko and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panko 2,484 Posted April 27, 2017 nothing much has been happening lately. found 2 sources of leaks into the boot. 1 being the join in the rear windscreen rubber is too big, i think because the rubber has shrunk over time, and it literally lets water straight into the parcel shelf, and eventually straight into the boot. someone has tried to seal it with silicon and it has just made a mess. so thats the next part of the project, to pull the screen out, clean all the silicon out, and fit new rubber. the second leak is where the seam sealer has cracked and opened up on a panel join below the LH tail lamp i pulled the driver's door card off with my $12 tool specifically made to remove the Jesus clips holding old school door handles on, so i could remove the door speakers and figure out how I'm going to mount new speakers flush so my window winder doesn't hit the speaker grille every time it passes. this is what was in the doors HAHAHAHAHAHA progress will probably be slowing down a bit on this, and the wagon for a little while until i get some finances sorted, and relocate everything to a new home in the coming month or so i could end up (with someone else) in a new warehouse, and eventually potentially my home. (pending an inspection this weekend hopefully) 1 2redrovers reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panko 2,484 Posted April 27, 2017 in the mean time, a little off topic from the Escort. My folks have had some progress at home slab for the new garage being poured. 9 x 6m slab for the garage. which will have 3m walls with a pitched roof, with a peak height of 3.6m. 5m wide roller door, 2.7m high. no beams for the pitched roof either which means nothing stopping the use of the max height of 3.6m. this is a huge step up from the garage attached to the house. with a max height of 2.1m internal haha. the second part of the slab is yet to be poured. there is a 5 x 6m carport that is being attached to the front of the garage as well, making it a total of 15x6m. 1 2redrovers reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panko 2,484 Posted April 27, 2017 and ill keep going off topic for a bit *actually, not entirely off topic. the trailer runs Mk1 Escort brakes, on 5 stud falcon rotors...hence the Jelly beans on the trailer. we have been emptying out my late grandfather's house in Emerald, which is where I currently store the wagon. so the last 2 weekends we have been between Emerald and Blairgowrie moving furniture, and appliances etc that we have decided to keep, and replace old stuff down the beach house in Blairgowrie. last weekend we washed and put the boats away for the end of the season, and decided the tarp covering dad's yacht needed replacing after 25+ years of service. So heres the yacht. the poor thing has not seen water for 11 years and probably hasn't been uncovered in the same amount of time its heartbreaking seeing it sit there. I love sailing the Catamaran, solo like i do most seasons. its fast, an awesome adrenaline rush, but nothing beats the relaxing feeling of sailing something of this size and weight. 3 Valvebouncer, Slow250XC and Defective reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,350 Posted April 27, 2017 garage with hoist.. that's where its at! life goal i should have had much earlier.. 1 SPArKy_Dave reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,910 Posted April 27, 2017 3 hours ago, deankdx said: garage with hoist.. that's where its at! life goal i should have had much earlier.. Might need a thicker slab for that... unless you go 4 poster. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,350 Posted April 27, 2017 21 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said: Might need a thicker slab for that... unless you go 4 poster. hoist under the carport then.. there's still time Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panko 2,484 Posted April 27, 2017 The slab is actually stronger than it may look. There was provisions made when it was poured. So the concrete is a heavier grade, and the reo bar is heavier also than what they would normally have put down. 1 2redrovers reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2redrovers 21,409 Posted April 27, 2017 🤔Ahhh.. The old "better than normal concrete not looking different in photos" trick....gets me every time 99 2 Slow250XC and Panko reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panko 2,484 Posted April 28, 2017 lol i dont know whats different about it. All i know is the concreter gave dad the option in materials and reo reinforcement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,350 Posted April 28, 2017 for BGDAVs hoist, the thickness around the hoist footprint is much deeper.. its not in the ideal spot and it would be handy to move it, but there isn't much wiggle room. might be able to go 20cm forward, but that's about all Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BGDAV 1,874 Posted April 28, 2017 150-200mm on the foots is ideal for a hoist otherwise you risk an ow shit moment 3 XTREME KARTS XF, Panko and SPArKy_Dave reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,910 Posted April 28, 2017 5 hours ago, BGDAV said: 150-200mm on the foots is ideal for a hoist otherwise you risk an ow shit moment I concur good sir. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panko 2,484 Posted May 21, 2017 @2redrovers hey mate need some advice getting the rear windscreen out of the Escort i know its the same as doing the side glass on the XF (according to the Escort workshop manual) is it worth me trying to do myself, having never done that type of windscreen before, or get someone in the know to come do it for me? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2redrovers 21,409 Posted May 21, 2017 Personally, only take out glass like that if it's already broken or the seals are being replaced and I can cut it out. If you have spare glass or its dirt cheap to replace, give it a shot. I assume it tells you the rope method of removal. An alternative is a number of plastic wedges or applicators to tease the rubber back as you go round with some gentle pressure on the glass.Usually I'll get someone in, or recommend it as then it's on them if it breaks...and rear screens can be pricey Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,350 Posted May 21, 2017 My tip regarding windscreen rubber removal(to reuse) is wait till summer.. when the rubber is soft. we got BGDAVs F100 windscreen out without issue but it was much warmer. does the escort have a locking strip? that helps if so.. i got Marks XF ute window out without breaking the glass or damaging the seal from memory. same process i always use, lift up seal inside the car and tuck an extension cord or similar under it and keep doing that all the way round and by the time you get to the beginning area it will probably be out.. risk to reward ratio? as Rod says above... whats cheaper? a seal or a windscreen 2 XTREME KARTS XF and 2redrovers reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2redrovers 21,409 Posted May 21, 2017 You're right Dean, the rope or extension cord idea works. It's easier with newer glass I think, probably more the type of seal and fitment rather than the glass itself. The old toughened glass is supposed to be stronger but I'd hate to have to replace a rear screen on anything pre-90s (find new glass that Is) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,350 Posted May 21, 2017 good point.. check availability.. @Panko you might like the idea of the seal working the original way(no sealant..) but i'd consider having a windscreen mob seal it with sealant, they may not even need to remove it.. My gemini's both leak from the seals front and rear.. i will be sealing them with sealant when i find out either what to use, or a mob that will do it properly(most would only guarantee no leaks with a new seal anyway.. and it probably will still leak in a few years when the "rubber"(no such thing as good rubber anymore) shrinks. 2 Panko and 2redrovers reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites