XYZ. XR-XF Falcon Front Coilovers

[Nath 1,975]

 

The install was pretty painless. For once, bolt in actually meant bolt in.

 

Hopefully should get to properly test them out soon.

[wagoon 2,429]

Looks like the height adjuster is all the way at the bottom still, what height springs did you replace?

Should be able to adjust the setting a bit to get a better setup as you get use to them.

[Nath 1,975]

Kings Lows, 30mm drop from stock I think. Pic was taken before I adjusted it properly. Top collar is the spring seat and the lower one is just a locking collar I think.

 

That's what I thought too - normally the height adjuster is a collar where it connects to the control arm but this setup has no such thing. The install instructions for one piece coilovers said that's how they worked (and not to use the spring seat collar to do it) but the two piece ones don't have that - bottom piece doesn't move. Instructions just said use the "bracket" to adjust height. Fucked if I know what they mean by bracket - they don't elaborate or have pictures. I just assumed they meant the gold spring seat collars were height adjustment too since that's the only thing you can adjust...?

 

 

Interestingly - not sure if you're supposed to do it like that but you can adjust everything while it's in the car. No need to unbolt it. Think I might try setting the dampening to the softest setting to see how much difference it makes.

[xr6tjet 98]

I have these on my AU, for the fronts to go lower the golden ring must be screwed down. There should be quite a bit of height adjustment on them I would hope =/

[wagoon 2,429]

To me the top ring looks to fit a c spanner for adjusting. All coilovers Ive dealt with(on quad bikes) the top nut is the adjuster and the lower nut is the locking nut.

[Nath 1,975]

Both rings are adjusted by C spanner. The bottom one would have to be just a locking ring, it's not connected to anything except the thread and it's not preventing anything from moving up/down.

 

Not that I've dealt with a lot but the coilovers I have played with have had the height adjustment separate - the bottom (where it connects to the UCA) would screw up and down for that.

[Nath 1,975]

So I went to adjust the height today in prep for tomorrow's cruise.

 

The collars were in different places each side so you'd expect it to be sitting unevenly as they were pretty far off each other - got 33cm on passenger and 32 on driver (wheel arch to centre of rim).

 

I screwed the collars down (allowing the spring to lengthen more) and made sure they were dead even on both sides.

 

Dropped the car and it's still the exact same as before.

 

Not sure what the go is there... Makes me wonder where the hell the height adjustment is since it's not in the usual spot either. Instructions are absolutely useless - they just say use the "bracket" for height adjustment. No idea what they mean by bracket.

 

It's too low to leave as it - don't like taking speed humps at 10km/h and I can hardly get the jack under it.

[Panko 2,481]

Hey ando, have you got aby pics of the DIY coil-overs?

[ando76 4,354]

Yeah mate they are at home here - I'll shoot out to the shed and take a photo soon.  need coffee and food first

[ando76 4,354]

Complete unit including custom top spring locator/mount. I drill out the spot welds on the factory waffle locator and use the holes to bolt these on.

 

 

Without the spring on so you can see the Bilstein shock and alloy threaded coil over adjuster. Note how the alloy threaded body is cut out so it locates on the factory spring saddle and the bottom of the shock body. This stops it from turning

 

 

Because I (and most other speedway guys) am anal about reducing front weight I cut the ends off the factory spring saddle mount. They are not needed so off they go. Its only a small amount of weight but 100 of these small things add up.

 

[wagoon 2,429]

So I went to adjust the height today in prep for tomorrow's cruise.

 

The collars were in different places each side so you'd expect it to be sitting unevenly as they were pretty far off each other - got 33cm on passenger and 32 on driver (wheel arch to centre of rim).

 

I screwed the collars down (allowing the spring to lengthen more) and made sure they were dead even on both sides.

 

Dropped the car and it's still the exact same as before.

 

Not sure what the go is there... Makes me wonder where the hell the height adjustment is since it's not in the usual spot either. Instructions are absolutely useless - they just say use the "bracket" for height adjustment. No idea what they mean by bracket.

 

It's too low to leave as it - don't like taking speed humps at 10km/h and I can hardly get the jack under it.

Don't forget that the springs are different lengths from factory so your going to need to replicate this.

[Panko 2,481]

Thats awesome. What sort of money to set them up?

 

Im still a bit unsure on how the top plate works.

[wagoon 2,429]

I pictured the top plate to look different but makes sense now, I thought the top mount would mount horizontal.

 

Im still a bit unsure on how the top plate works.

The vertical ring in the pic would "capture" the top of the spring since it's a smaller diameter than the standard size spring.

[ando76 4,354]

The top plate bolts to the underside of the factory shock tower.  When you remove your big arse factory springs you will see what I call the waffle spring locator.  It is used to retain/ centre factory spring.

 

The top mount takes its place and because the coil over spring diameter is much smaller, you need some way of centring/locating it.  That is the function of the top mount. 

 

This is just how I did it.  I have seen other blokes just weld exhaust tubing to the centre of the factory waffle locator and use it to locate the spring (internally located).  It works and is quick, but like most stuff that is quick and easy it has its down falls.  It makes getting the shock out in a hurry a bit more difficult (time consuming).  Most times repairing shit between heats - or even just a spring rate change - every second counts.

[gerg 10,871]

So after a bit of a shake-down run, what's the verdict Nath?

[Nath 1,975]

Still haven't flogged the piss out of it (yet!) but I'm liking it so far.

 

How it's set up now, it definitely has more body roll than before (had almost none with the last setup) which is actually a good thing since it used to just kind of skate across if you took a sharp corner real hard. Real stiff suspension plus huge sway bars I guess. It has a good initial weight transfer but then doesn't get any worse after it gets to a certain point, just kind of leans a little enough to get the weight where it needs to go without going further. Points in really nicely.

 

I threw it into a few corners a bit hard on purpose a couple of times and it felt really sure footed, didn't feel like it was anywhere near breaking loose at all. I think the rear end will be the limiting factor until I get my new leaf springs though.

 

Overall I'm pretty happy with it so far. Whether or not it's better than a bilstein/koni and custom king setup I can't say since I've never driven on that setup before. But it definitely shits all over them in adjust-ability which I reckon is worth the extra coin any day of the week. Will try setting the dampening softer to see if it rides any better.

 

Coming from King's/Monroe shocks it rides better in terms of comfort but only marginally (on standard damper as opposed to really stiff Monroe shocks) so I don't think you're sacrificing much ride comfort at all, and if you don't like it you can always adjust it.

 

I think Ryan was probably right - the springs are maybe a bit softer than the alternatives but having said that I'm not sure that's necessarily a bad thing. It does transfer the weight but I definitely wouldn't describe it as excessive - it gets to a certain point then doesn't go further. I'm only on the medium dampening adjustment too so I could always stiffen it up (giggity) and see how much difference that makes to the body roll.

 

 

Wonder how it'd go with the shelby drop mod...

[NZXD 2,328]

Sounds good, can you put up a photo of the ride height?

 

I'm three clicks away from ordering some.

[Nath 1,975]

I can, will take some tomorrow. Ride height is adjustable though, currently have it set up exactly the same as it was with the Kings Low's in it. I.e. low but not bashing my sump/bumper on speedhumps @ 30km/h.

 

There's plenty of adjustment so if you decide you like having your headers scrape on the road that can be done too.

 

Could be a bit of a wait (mine took like 8 weeks) though. Maybe it's different if you go through XYZ directly.

 

 

If you do get them just know that the springs will definitely be softer than what you have now but as to whether that's a bad thing, and how much you can compensate for that with other areas I don't know since I haven't really tested it properly.

[gerg 10,871]

Hard springs are no good on Aussie roads, I see heaps of dickheads driving lowered jap cars that handle like shit, bobbing up and down on a dead-flat road. They can't take corners even at grandma speeds because the tyres just skip across the tops of the bumps. I think, from what you've described, it's a definite improvement.

 

To improve the rear, you need to tighten up the bushes and run greasable neoprene ones in the eyes and in the shackles. Don't run a huge sway bar (if any at all) as this will make more oversteer... Unless that's what you want.

 

When you say "new" leaf springs, do you mean heavier ones, or just replacements? Liverpool springs does resets and re-packs and gets a good rap from many folks I've talked to.

[bear351c 10,270]

yeah, I agree with Gerg on this.  If the suspension is good, firm and you know exactly when it will let go or grip, then YOU need to adjust your driving style to the car. It's a 30 year old Falcon, with leaf springs, and a 6 cyl......not a Touring car. 

 

Lots of younger guys get caught up in the "Bigger is better" argument, but suspension has to be tuned, like an engine. If you're happy with it the way it is, then jobs done. Drive like ya stole it, find out what happens if, and when, and stay within the limits of the car.

 

Good report back, for others, Nath.

[Nath 1,975]

Yeah totally new ones Greg - King's Lows. Think they're beefier than stock.

The original ones had been sitting in the same position for years and all the rubbers are crap so I figured it was better to start fresh rather than reset them.

 

I haven't tried it without a rear sway bar but might give it a go. I kind of like a bit of oversteer though, especially given that X series were understeery from factory.

 

I liked the way my AU handled (the front of it anyway) and if I could replicate some of that in the XD it'd be nice. It pointed in really well which I liked but the arse end was all over the place - flogged out rear suspension. Was also a really comfortable ride at the same time, although it was kind of on the floaty side.

 

I realise it's not likely to get a 35 year old XD to feel the same way but I'd like to try anyway.

 

 

 

After I do the rears I might go back and re-do the control arms at the front in rubber, then start looking at a tighter ratio steering box.

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Drive a x series ute or wagon if you want to know how they go with no rear sway bar and leaf sprung rear.

[gerg 10,871]

Drive a x series ute if you want to know how they go with no rear sway bar.

 

My wags doesn't have one, but I could pilfer the one off the coupe I spose. Can't see it making much difference except lifting the inside wheel around roundabouts.

[gerg 10,871]

Nath your suspension will eventually outperform your tyres, so you really should upgrade to bigger wheels and lower profile rubber if handling is your thing.

[NZXD 2,328]

Yeah totally new ones Greg - King's Lows. Think they're beefier than stock.

The original ones had been sitting in the same position for years and all the rubbers are crap so I figured it was better to start fresh rather than reset them.

 

I haven't tried it without a rear sway bar but might give it a go. I kind of like a bit of oversteer though, especially given that X series were understeery from factory.

 

I liked the way my AU handled (the front of it anyway) and if I could replicate some of that in the XD it'd be nice. It pointed in really well which I liked but the arse end was all over the place - flogged out rear suspension. Was also a really comfortable ride at the same time, although it was kind of on the floaty side.

 

I realise it's not likely to get a 35 year old XD to feel the same way but I'd like to try anyway.

 

 

 

After I do the rears I might go back and re-do the control arms at the front in rubber, then start looking at a tighter ratio steering box.

 

Nath, as you know I've got the new king Spring leaves, and with the sway bar and new nolathan bushes, the arse end is very stiff, it's not bouncy like a chopped spring jap car, but you can feel it when driving. In saying though, it's very controllable and comfortable, doesn't step out uncontrollably either.