Banno 480 Posted March 11, 2014 Would it be a fair assumption to say that my thermostat in my XE is stuffed. Found that now when car warms up it goes 3/4 before thermostat opens, when before it used to only go to half way then drops. It also sits at 1/2 way at highway speed and a little over 1/4 around town, before it sat 1/4 at highway and just under 1/4 at town. Check timing and all good and everything else and not losing coolant though have put extractors on thats the only change. Car has done 3000 km in 8-9 months so also thinking radiator may need good flushing though feel no cold spots. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfamilia 1,938 Posted March 11, 2014 I wouldnt be too concerned yet. Give it a reverse flush of the radiator only to clear it out. Also might pay to take it to rad shop for a rodding Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adrianphu123 73 Posted March 11, 2014 if you have one, put a proper gauge on it to see where its actually running at. From my experience, the factory gauge can fluctuate wildly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XFChris 126 Posted March 12, 2014 Sounds more like a cooling system blockage, or a gauge inaccuracy. I hear thermostats can get stuck open or closed, but never heard of one opening at different temps. How does temp look in traffic on a hot day? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
agentkiwi 110 Posted March 13, 2014 Yeah the thermostat could be coroded & not opening properly. Its easy & cheap to replace. Just watch that hollow bleeder bolt on the housing, they snap off real easy if you give it too much! While ur at it replace the sender too cheap & easy. A cooling system flush is always a good idea done properly & use new correct coolant fluid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,889 Posted March 13, 2014 i recommend nulon green coolant from crossflows, it's a semi organic so is good for non fully submerged systems (ie, the crossflow)<br /><br />Give it a good flush as people have already mentioned.<br /><br />CHECK your thermostat before installing it. Put it in a pot of water and bring it slowly to the boil, check the temperature it opens and make sure it is within specification. i have had a thermostat kill an engine before when it was dodgy brand new right out of the packet, and didnt open till the engine was VERY hot, then when it opened the cold water went into a very hot engine and warped the head from the sudden change in temp.<br /><br />ALL my thermostats i do this too now, It improves the accuracy and response, I personally recommend this mod for all thermostats on a crossflow: 2 robbie and XES reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
agentkiwi 110 Posted March 13, 2014 At the risk of appearing dumb, what's the hole for crazy2287? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted March 13, 2014 The hole let's air bubbles bleed out into the radiator, I think. I swear that's what I was told anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XFChris 126 Posted March 14, 2014 Yep what Mr Polson said, allows air bubbles to get past while the thermostat is still closed. Might even allow a small amount of coolant to trickle through, can't be a bad thing. Some other companies have a hole like that on their OEM thermostats. I don't suppose one can get a thermostat through ford still? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted March 14, 2014 Only just realised crazy said its a mod, the thermostat in my ute has that hole with a brass bit in it (jiggle valve comes to mind...). Its not a factory one but it was an off the shelf replacement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,889 Posted March 14, 2014 The reason you install it uppermost is it aid in bleeding out air pockets. The main reason is it also lets a small amount of coolant past and to flow as the engine heats up, Reducing "hot spots" and allows the thermostat a better reference of actual engine temperature, especially at first start so it can respond quicker to prevent the thermostat "hunting" and causing the engine to go hot-cold-hot-cold while the system is stabilizing. Engines have different designs of coolant flow, this is for 250 Crossflows only, I have not accessed it's suitability on any other engine/coolant flow design. TL:DR I'ts a fkn good idea Okay, don't ask questions or i'll fkn strangle ya' with my sweaty foreskin. 2 1 408WPN, Outback Jack and Ando81 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n00bus m@x1mus 465 Posted March 14, 2014 And in case you didnt already know make sure the spring on the thermostat is on the head side of the thermostat housing and not the hose side. This spring needs to be in contact with the coolant inside the head in order to react to it and open the thermostat as it heats up. If its put in backwards it will have a huge delay in opening temps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Banno 480 Posted March 14, 2014 Thanks guys, I am just going to change the thermostat and coolant anyway. For what they cost its cheap insurance and i know its done plus i want to replace a couple of hoses as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfamilia 1,938 Posted March 15, 2014 What flush to use in cleaning out an iron head crossy. I know some not recommended for alloy heads Share this post Link to post Share on other sites