PRO250

you get what you pay for mate there is a reason a pavtec costs the 14+k it does you get a engine that lasts im sure the hiperformance world one is ok but for almost 1/2 the price id look closer i remember the sydney speed supplys guys and how they just slaped there engines together yes they work and made the numbers but they did not last
 
you can build a nice 393 with alloys and all the good bits for the 8k but do it yourself and you will know its right then
 
and 14k for under 500hp find a new engine builder cause 450hp can be done on a almost stock 351 with cast 2v heads so where does the other 10k go? that right into his pocket

I agree with the efi and 500 is heaps
My xb runs a 393 with efi and makes a lazy 400 @ the wheels which is probly 550 at the engine maybe more and it's under the bonnet and a steeter not really a racer
 
Engine us getting on in age too
 
 
 
I just think 500 could be 600 for the same bucks and be just as streetable
 
 
Just my 2cents worth
 
 
Steve

i do the shortening at the hub end cut turn up and refit into the hub its strong im running a set in a corty thats running 11.0 so there working
 
i have a few that ive done less 40mm ill messure them tomorrow if you want?
 
send you case i can do that to $300 might do it cheaper if you want mates rates

my clevo extractor note LOL
 

My 351

My old clevo powered escort,doing a few revs in the pad at winton raceway.
 

my clevo extractor note LOL
 

Ah ok well you can always park it in the sun on a hot day and paint it with house paint.....

LOL bryan 2 pack topcoat over a acrylic base will not last long before the clear lifts off and if you where going to do this why not just use a 2 pack basecoat? the price diffrence would only be a few 100 bucks
 
good paint costs money a good 2 pack clear over base in a good brand is around $1000  in paints clear so on and if you not speding this it will not last more then 4  years at most ive done some cars on the cheap and unless there a bog and flog job dont do it it will not be worth the outcome
 
in saying that straight colors in 2 pack are on the cheap side and will also last
 
 

LOL bryan 2 pack topcoat over a acrylic base will not last long before the clear lifts off and if you where going to do this why not just use a 2 pack basecoat? the price diffrence would only be a few 100 bucks
 
good paint costs money a good 2 pack clear over base in a good brand is around $1000  in paints clear so on and if you not speding this it will not last more then 4  years at most ive done some cars on the cheap and unless there a bog and flog job dont do it it will not be worth the outcome
 
in saying that straight colors in 2 pack are on the cheap side and will also last
 
 

When looking at the specs, ignore the advertised duration (the longer one) as this is not indicative of the true characteristics of the cam. Instead, look at the duration at 0.050" valve lift, that is when all the slack/flex in the valvetrain is taken up and when flow actually starts to happen. So if advertised duration is around say 280deg, then duration at 0.050" might be about 210deg. Lobe separation can indicate how much overlap the cam has but not always. It also depends on the shape of the lobe. Nevertheless, it's a general indication of how much overlap there might be.
 
With a given duration, if you have say a 108 deg LSA, then it will have more overlap than 110 or definitely 112. The narrower you go in LSA, the more scavenging effect at higher rpm but at the cost of low-rpm torque due to exhaust gas actually bouncing back into the cylinder, and will give a rougher idle. Scavenging needs a good exhaust to work, so running stock manifolds and single 2-1/4 with a wild cam is a silly move.
 
If you go wider in LSA, it will tame the idle somewhat and be more torquey but will start to run out of puff sooner. Go too wide and you'll drop volumetric efficiency because the inlet is open for too long and mixture will be pushed back out of the cylinder before it closes again.
 
Playing with cam timing alters the engine speed at which the cam works best. Advancing brings the rpm band down, retarding brings it up higher. A barely tolerable cam in a 351 might be too hairy for a 302, general rule is that things happen 500rpm later in a 302, so torque and power need more revs to start happening. You could advance the cam a little to compensate for the smaller engine but I'd just go one step down in cam size and install as instructed.
 
One thing about Clevos is that they like more exhaust duration, due to the fact that while the exhaust flows quite well, it's quite a lot less than the inlet. It's less than the accepted formula of 70% (or thereabouts), so to compensate, they make cams over a certain size with what they call a "split" duration, where the exhaust is held open a bit longer than the inlet to allow more complete scavenging.

welcome stumpy no brown storys mate youll be safe