Valvebouncer

Drain it on the neighbours lawn?

Found a safe DIY method, for basic leak testing of Injectors -
 
Connect compressed air, set at normal fuel pump supply pressure (often 40-60 psi)
Leave for a few hrs, and results should show. 🙂
 
 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

i wouldnt want to be a toyota owner atm with that corona virus bahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

a bloke gave me the cash over the phone for it after i did an 800m test lol just to check brakes and gearbox worked ok,then it left to tassie.

I remember that car, it was cheap too. It's a shame really, the crossflow is an awesome engine

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

The rare xe that was the grand prix not to be maybe ?

ryan had a similar problem when he was selling the french blue xe sedan ,he had a killer 250 engine but no one wanted to pay the big bux for the whole thing,so i bought the car and he sold the engine.

yeah very disapointing so im just gunna sell the engine plus a lot of spares to go with it ,its on e bay atm for a song then lets blo that cash on the 400

Very nice!
I did see your ute on Ebay a while ago.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

vb where have you been hiding

about to fuk the crossflow off and put a 400 clevo in the ute

Hey bro!
I've been busy moving house and renovating. For now its quiet, itll ramp up again though.
How are you chesty?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

That's nuts!


Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Update to progress

So with Christmas, Holidays and all, I have managed a little bit of time on the old XF. I have managed to:
- install the 1/2 cage
- install the second (passenger) seat
- rebuilt the rear brakes
- installed a new rear handbrake cable (this was missing entirely)
- changed the rear trailing arm and Watts Link bushings for Nolethane (they were stuffed)
- changed the Swaybar links and bushings, am going to run the factory swaybar for now!
- removed the tow bar from the rear bumper (cut out the actual towbar)
- rewired the engine bay to a distribution block for positive and negative and;
- have just relocated the battery tray to the boot (where the spare wheel used to sit).
Am getting there!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

perfectly cromulent word
 
making progress, better than some projects lately(mine in particular)

It’s back together! Nearly! Ha ha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For a light flywheel i am impressed with mine. 6.5kg with ring gear on.

Www.ironforce.co.nz

Be cheap as with aussie money haha

Sent from my SM-J330G using Tapatalk

Oh, forgot to mention. My youngest and I went to the local racetrack for a bit of a look. There was a turbo RX7 on track and it was shooting 4 foot flames out of the exhaust. Anyway, my youngest loved it!

So the XF has sidepipes and I have worked out how to program the ECU to shoot flame, just because he likes it!

Funniest thing is, one of my day jobs at the moment is consulting for the Climate Change Office on Electric Vehicle transition for local council. Hypocrisy to the max!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey mate, thanks for chasing me up. Have been pretty busy on the XF (when I get time anyway).
 
Engines out and off to the rebuilders (only for the machining). The plan has altered slightly:
 
Zero decked block
Ported head
Crow 14770 Cam
Cylinders need to be bored out, so will be 40thou oversize as that’s what’s recommended
Balance job on the bottom end
Light weight flywheel
Have gone with the MS3x ECU with the datalogging function, will just be a bit of fun!
 
Have ordered some wiring stuff (the engine bay is a mess), new engine mounts and twin 12” thermos and a Davies Craig Thermo switch. Spent an afternoon cleaning the engine bay and am cleaning up and painting the extractors.
 
So all in all, it’s progressing! Should come in around $3k for everything and should put out some (decent) figures!
 
Thanks for the input!
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

OK some dissection of your plan:

"port & polish" - just port, not polish. Polishing is a waste of time and has a negative effect on fuel atomisation and air velocity.

"zero deck block" - good move

"40 thou piston" - only if it needs it. Boring gives a negligible increase in displacement and power, so just go the absolute minimum to clean up the wear.

"crow 14892" - might be a tad small for what you want. I would go a size or two up.

14770 - 214/224 510"/514", 111LSA
14550S - 219/223 510"/510" 106LSA (speedway cam, a bit cranky)
14686 - 224/224 507"/507" 108LSA (also cranky)

But the one you quoted might feel a bit wheezy on the track.

"stronger valve springs" yep good move. Go at least 115lb on the seat, high 200s on the nose. I got Crane Blue Racers pretty cheap. If you want the motor to live a long, happy life, invest in some good roller rockers. The stock rockers (with stiffer springs) will burn through your oil, wear out quicker and put stress on your valve stems.

"Megasquirt ECU" - can't comment on that one but they must be OK if they're still in business.

Now some more to add:

Get it balanced (pistons, rods). Invest in a good harmonic balancer. These engines don't like RPM with an untouched bottom end.

When determining how much comp you need, focus on dynamic compression ratio, not static. This means that you select your compression ratio based on how the cam works in relation to the piston position. There are online calculators that help you with this. On an alloy head, aim for about 8.5:1 dynamic. You need to know the engine parameters to input though, which will require other calculators to find.

This is a good site:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

Be careful when shaving the head/block to zero deck the pistons. Your pushrod length will be affected.

A lighter flywheel does wonders for engine response and fast gearchanges. An 8kg zero balance 157 tooth Windsor one will bolt on.

The stock EFI bananas can start to get restrictive with only small increases in power. EA-ED logs are a good conversion, this also swaps intake piping to the cold side of the engine. If done right, the setup can look like it was made to be there.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

All great points, I'll add to/elaborate on the many reasons why the US Clevo died in 74:

They were a heavier engine. The 351W was slightly lighter despite having a taller deck.

The word "performance" for all manufacturers was becoming a forbidden word. A major key to the racy 351C, the 4V head (what made it a performance engine) was becoming redundant because performance was way down the list of priorities, and was of no advantage with all the smog requirements of the time.

The federal laws in advertising engine horsepower had to be shown in DIN or net (ie: as installed in the vehicle) as opposed to the bullshit SAE figures they used to get with no water pump, alternator or exhaust system. Finally, people could see the inefficiency of the big lumps they were driving, some down by 100 HP with no changes to the tune. For the fuel they used, they provided poor performance.

Efficiency is another good point, one well made by Boingk, was the open-chamber design that was better for emissions but worse for efficiency. The new laws pushing from one end and the fuel crisis from the other put the squeeze on manufacturers to cull the worst performing designs and focus on engineering the ones left into a feasible product.

They were somewhat able to recoup the development cost of the Cleveland by continuing to build the 351M/400, an evolution of the Clevo but used in large cars and trucks. This range continued until 1982. It was a low-power, high-torque smog motor, a replacement for the 390.

The cars coming out at the time were too small to take the large, heavy lump that the clevo was. The Mustang and the Pinto were going to be their bread-and butter models, which were 4 and 6-cylinder powered. Although, they did manage to wedge a smogged 302W into the last model of the Mustang II before the Fox came out.

What eventually killed the 351M/400 was the difficulty in adapting to the new emissions standards of the 1980s, which required feedback via oxygen sensors which are (for obvious reasons) incompatible with air pump injection systems. Coupled with the reduced demand for an engine of that size in the lean-and-mean 80s, the cost of re-engineering the "M" motor was not justifiable.

The reasons why the Cleveland continued in Aus right until the end of 82 was the fact that large family cars were still popular at the time. The Cleveland was already engineered for fitment into the Falcon/Fairlane chassis so there was no problem continuing that line, even if on a small scale. The tooling had already been made, so the rest was just production cost.

Of course Ford pulled the pin in 82 and paid for it until the bitter end, but that's a whole new essay for another day.



Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

But.........
 
 
 
the noise  

🤔
 
Hmmmm........... only an hour away, (checks bank balance)
 
 
 

You can forget about over .500" lift on standard rocker gear.  It's just not going to happen. Well not with any reliability. If you plan on taking it to the strip and giving it a hard time then just go straight to solid flat tappet. The 'run in risks' are the same with hydraulic flat tappet as solid flat tappet and the solid will make more power all day everyday. Roller rockers can be bought cheaply second hand so I'm not sure why you'd bother trying to make the stock stuff work way past its design purpose. 
 
230@50 is a good starting point on camshaft tho. Your cylinder head will need decent flow but there are various porting and build threads on here to guide you in that direction. 
 
The aussiespeed 4 barrel unit is really the only choice for the power level your aiming for (based on the times you want to run). Forget the street avenger and go straight to a 650dp. 
 
Ignition control is important on these engines so I'd be going nothing less than a 6al2 programmable and a hvc or hvc2 coil. Both are rated for street use and put out decent spark. 
 
A decent exhaust to get the bad stuff out and you should be well on your way. You will need to look at keeping weight down as much as you can but your goal should be achievable.