XPT

Same same!
Here is mine, pulled it out of storage after about 13 months ... first start don't mind the bottom end knock, she'll be right
 

"guess what's for dinner kiddies"

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Engine uses oil and smokes too much, especially for 70,00 km.
 
So... heads are off, have been stripped and inspected.
 
1) Engine is pretty clean inside, probably because it's always getting fresh oil from needing to top it up
 
2) Oil deposits in exhaust port
 
3) Chambers were all like this. Plugs fouled but somehow ran fine (the MSD probably helped)
 
4) Weird scoring on one seat, either from new or from the valve face
 
5) Seriously crap daggy bits inside the ports
 
6) Anyone who likes umbrella seals, take a geez at this. Every one was at least split in 3 places, some smashed or missing the tops. I reckon they'd be softer if made from bakelite. At 70,000 km, that is rubbish
 
7) My head jig, for both disassembly and porting. The idea is that I can have both heads and all the ports lined up so I can be consistent with each shaping operation.

Bit of both really, I often read myself to sleep looking at this kind of thing, and luckily there are a few folks out there kindly willing to share pictures of their work.  
I took this on with a general idea of how things should look. However there are things that a camera just can't show, like the transition between the short turn and the port floor, which can only be felt with your finger, kind of like looking for its g-spot lol
 
Give it a go i reckon. Stick to a few rules:
 
* use a decent size compressor
 
* always keep the burr moving
 
* take very small nibbles, not big chunks
 
* repeat exactly the same action for every port. Pretend your arm is a robot on a production line, using your muscle memory.
 
* on a street engine, you only want to smooth, not enlarge. 2Vs are already a bit big for a 302, so going bigger is a step backward.
 
* concentrate on the bowl and short turn. The biggest gains for time invested are made here. Leave the port alone unless you have a whole weekend to spare
 
* it doesnt need to be pretty. If it feels smooth, that's good enough. Your fingertips are your eyes
 
EDIT: also if you have a pressure reg set up in your air line, set it at or below the cut-in pressure of your compressor. The pressure variance between cut-in and cut-out causes big changes to the speed of the die grinder. A reg will keep the pressure (and thus speed) constant.
 
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Decided to attack the short turns today, and started on one guide boss.
 
Before & after:Ok so you can see that the factory port work is disgusting. A sharp ridge pretty much all around the bowl, with a very sharp edge on the short turn, and a big dumb lump of a guide boss, also a dead pocket behind it No wonder they only flow marginally better than a 351W.
 
Now some progress shots:
 
Did the exhausts too, but hardly worth showing as they only had a slight ridge coming just out of the bowl. Spent no more than 10 min on them and that's how they'll stay.
 
The whole job (8 inlets and exhausts) was only about 90 min. Any more than this i reckon would bring diminishing returns for your time spent.
 
Next is finish the guide boss and copy its shape for all the rest, including exhaust.
 
 
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Lol backyard engineering... You've come to the right place

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Been a while since I posted so I thought an update was in order. Had a guy who builds turbo motors come and have a look at the bitch and he was straight up with me about what was required.
He estimate of what it would cost to rebuild the motor, set up a decent engine management system and all the other crap necessary to make a reliable street car has forced me to look at other options.

My thoughts now are leaning towards a turbo barra transplant, most likely from an fg falcon.

The search has now begun for an fg turbo motor with all the bolt ons, computer and loom.

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Idle Speed Control. Lives on top of the throttle body. I drilled and tapped a tapered bolt into the side of it that limits the travel of the plunger inside. Instead of 1500, I got it idling sweet at 850. It also used to hang up between gear shifts but this fixed it. Backyard mechanics at its best lol

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Do turbocharge it. Don't run a HV oil pump, Ando will spontaneously combust.

Do turbocharge it. Don't run a HV oil pump, Ando will spontaneously combust.

I had a rocker come loose on my brother's old XF, not long after we did a head gasket. Those bolts have a fine line between snapping off or not being tight enough. So I popped the cover, re-positioned all the bits, then snugged it down. Drove like a bought one.... until I wrote it off

Do turbocharge it. Don't run a HV oil pump, Ando will spontaneously combust.

That will be fine. E series will bolt on but you cant use the e series hardware (bolts). Well i assume thie mostly, but i have a xf throttle body bolted to an e-series manifold so i'd assume it works both ways.

Turbo the efi motor and you have the best of both worlds

If you think you can make one, then you just need to start with a flange like this

Do turbocharge it. Don't run a HV oil pump, Ando will spontaneously combust.

Do turbocharge it. Don't run a HV oil pump, Ando will spontaneously combust.

If you think you can make one, then you just need to start with a flange like this

If you think you can make one, then you just need to start with a flange like this

I recon i could make one similar to that.
 
That one, unfortunately, is local pick up only in NSW.

That's an aftermarket divorced dump pipe- the turbine and wastegate gasses are completely divided and have their own pipes. The factory dump pipe is cast iron. That one there would be worth a look because even if it didn't quite fit, a bit of cutting, grinding and welding would sort it out.

Can you put up a pic of the back of the turbine housing? If you have a straight copy of the Garrett XR6T gt3582r, the turbine housing should have the wastegate flap incorporated into the housing. Ideally you don't want the wastegate gasses going into a flat plate and squeezing out. You would want an open flange that has a section of pipe allowing the wastegate gasses to merge with the turbine gasses more smoothly or a divorced dump pipe. Like this :

For a 4 litre turbo 3" would be bare minimum. 3.5 - 4" even better

Brackets made for ecu, cdi and '1 gauge' brain. Got them welded on and dummy fitted. Happy with the results. Mainly as they are hidden from direct view.

Thats a very good point, factory efi will make a basic turbo setup much much easier. Yep carby can be done but efi is just easier and cheaper to do, even when stating to turn the boost up its easier when you have efi.