XPT

I'll butt in as have a couple of points to add:

I guess it comes down to what the EFI system is happy doing; whether or not the engine's requirements are outside the capabilities of the system.

Example: a low vac/high throttle opening at ldle (typical of a radical cam) might upset the computer because it sees it as load. Also, the computer only knows how much oxygen is in the exhaust. If there is incomplete combustion (again with the radical cam), the oxygen content in the exhaust gas will be high and thus, thinking it's lean, the computer will (mistakenly) give it more fuel. Think of what happens when someone installs a high-overlap cam into a MAP controlled E-series engine. It goes a bit haywire.

The concept of the self-tune function rides entirely on the ability of the O2 sensor to read what the exhaust is doing. It may well be that a MAP-controlled, closed-loop system is unsuitable for race applications. The makers of the EFI have to make certain assumptions about what it's being bolted to and tune accordingly, whereas a big dumb old carby just does what you tell it to do no matter what, albeit with much trial-and-error to get there.

Carbies require a lot of experience to get running right, but once dialled in, do an amazing job for what they are. EFI tries to do all the thinking for you, but sometimes it can be a bit too smart for its own good.

This is a bit of a blanket statement, but I think that on a milder engine, I think it would be great. However in some scenarios (particularly idle and cruise) on an engine over 1 horse per cube, self-learning EFI may be of no advantage, even detrimental.

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I'm not sure what size tube the lines are so here's a chart

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You could get a swagelok or similar joiner so you can cut and rotate the tube.

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Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it.

 
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Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it.

 
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Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it.

 
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Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it.

 
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Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it.

 
Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 
 
 

Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it.

 
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Went back to the flow bench today with a new port and chamber design. It was based on the stuff we learnt from doing the last 3 test ports, you know the ones that caused all the conjecture.
Anyway I had a c1 head sitting here that had stainless ferrea valves (1.84&1.5) and all the guides and seats done. It just needed porting. I've had it for years and decided now was the time.
Here are the results. Pretty damn impressive I must say, especially considering how small the valve is. Then have a look at the port window, yep it's stock. ZERO welding or bogging done to the port. None.

Before the naysayers and the like ask, no I'm not sharing what the x section is, nor the chamber shape. Please keep in mind (as I've said numerous times) Anthony's bench flows 10cfm below name benches. That's 243cfm of flow through a 1.84 valve and a stock port window!!! Smallest port doing the biggest job. Look at the mid lift figures. Solid as a rock.
p.s. Please ignore the valve size on the test sheet. Anthony didn't change it. 




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Absolutely! I think this would make a very interesting car and would stand out from the usual 347 windsor crowd.

I would imagine the performance to be similar to a Cortina as far as power-to-weight goes, but would be light-years ahead in handling and braking, (McPherson strut/multilink) also with a massive range of options to upgrade them.

Have a look at footage of Dick Johnson's green one and watch how well he got that handling. It seems to have just the right amount of rear-end slide dialled into it whenever it's pointed around corners. Apart from it being a bit of a turd for power (Group A rules) it was an excellent race car.

Bit of history: they started fitting the inline into the Fox Mustang in the early 80s as the German Cologne V6 was reaching production capacity and was probably getting pretty expensive to import. As the larger Fairmont was also a Fox chassis, and was already being offered with the inline, it was a no-brainer to shove that in the base Mustang.

Your options wouldn't need to stop at a stout crossy. It would be just as easy and cheap to fit an E-series or AU motor with the bonus of them being more plentiful these days. Barra too, but might be a tad tight.

4-eyed Foxes rule!

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Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal.  Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. 
THE END 

Only if you're going with no intercooler (far from ideal) or a water to air over the top of the engine. The old pre bbm log makes it easier to plumb intercooler pipework and makes for a far shorter inlet tract to run an air to air front mount, which is the cheapest option.

http://www.tuffcarparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=180_65_81&product_id=1281
That's valve springs.
Genuine AU head gasket, call your local Ford dealer. If not go a permaseal MLS gasket from TI Performance 
https://www.tiperformance.com.au/products/permaseal-au-falcon-mls-head-gasket/

TI Performance

There was a white EA falcon out of Mike's Dyno in Melbourne about 10 years back that ran consistent low 10's and even a high 9 at some stage, with a stock EF bottom end with an XR6 GT3582R on a log manifold. I'd at least get an AU Falcon OEM steel head gasket and some fresh head bolts and some decent valve springs. It should last a while at least with a good tune. 
 

A Garrett GT3582R from a BA-BF or GT3576R from an FG XR6T will be perfect. They're internal wastegate so they're more simple for fabrication and compact than for an external gate. Apart from that there's many turbo's that will do the job but they're already sized perfectly for a 4L so you won't go wrong. 

A Garrett GT3582R from a BA-BF or GT3576R from an FG XR6T will be perfect. They're internal wastegate so they're more simple for fabrication and compact than for an external gate. Apart from that there's many turbo's that will do the job but they're already sized perfectly for a 4L so you won't go wrong. 

Ok it's a bit hard to explain but during assembly, the engine number takes on whatever chassis it goes into, regardless of where the engine was made. In your case, it's a truck chassis assembled here from US-made parts. If it was cast in 77, it's a local block. Around that time, we were starting to export the blocks back to the US for NASCAR use, so they were well and truly used up over there.

Another example: My Cortina engine number started with "CG58" as that's what a Cortina chassis came with, despite the engine being a locally made 6.

C = Great Britain
G = Geelong assembly
58 = Cortina 6-cyl GL sedan

Any clevo will bolt straight into any vehicle that had a Clevo as an option. In my case, an XB ute engine ended up being rebuilt for someone's F100 which was never installed but sold to me to go into my XE wagon. See what I mean? A lot can happen in 40-odd years so it's no surprise that your block ended up in a Falcon.



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Cutting your dick off with a chainsaw is different, doesn't mean you should do it.

Cutting your dick off with a chainsaw is different, doesn't mean you should do it.

OP Dex was referring to a roots type kit blower, with carbs & chrome and blower whine being favoured over outright hp or hp per dollar. Cool factor is the priority. 
Procharger, Vortech etc are all centrifugal blowers which are not only different in their characteristics by the way they deliver boost to positive displacement blowers (like roots or Whipple type). They also look totally different, they're basically a turbo with a gearbox and belt pulley on the back. They don't possess the "cool factor" of a the positive displacement blower in the same way that turbos don't  (if you regard that look as cool). 
I can see how a centrifugal blower would be appealing especially in kit form, their bolt on nature and linear power delivery making good gains in peak & midrange hp and easy to tune. They can make some huge hp numbers with big cube v8s especially, but still aren't as efficient as turbos, can have belt slip and aren't exactly cheap. 
 

Cutting your dick off with a chainsaw is different, doesn't mean you should do it.

Cutting your dick off with a chainsaw is different, doesn't mean you should do it.

Cutting your dick off with a chainsaw is different, doesn't mean you should do it.