matt_lamb_160

The thing the dizzy is attached to is a Hilborn style mechanical fuel injection pump. These pumps are usually belt driven so I'd say there is a belt driving the pump and the dizzy shafted has been machined onto the back of the pump drive.
 
The injection trumpets and throttle bodies are from RHD engineering by the looks. I was looking at these recently but went with the Jenvey units. The RHD units are Tiawanese made but the quality is up there. The company is Aus based. They are competively priced and the trumpet lengths are adjustable for 'harmonic tuning'. It was a real toss up for me but I went with the U.K. made Jenvey units as I liked their trumpet design and injector position better than the RHD units. Plus competition systems did me a great price on their units and the valve back to butterfly distance was perfect.
 
The video of that brings engine running is just pure porn and very inspiring.

Reviving from the dead for good reason, have a look at this shops setup. Not a carby but check out what he's done on the ignition side of things! 
 

Dropped into Edcon this arvo 1.5"NB sched 40, 90 degree buttweld mild steel bends $2.40 ea. including GST, 2.5" were around $4.50

I would say, because it is an exhaust to header collector for a system which requires an exhaust (peak HP) which is greater than what works with the headers. Without the reduction, the exhaust effectively becomes a big collector. 
Otherwise, it makes no sense.

Oh Matt there is so so much I want to get onto with this build. Time and paying work is my enemy at the moment. New financial year will be a very different story.
 
The shop ute is damn close to being finished and I need it done and the MSC fired up and running before I can allow myself to play with this car full time.
 
I'm busy hunting and gathering parts now so that when the time comes, I can just hook straight in and build it. No waiting on stuff. Nothing worse that sitting on your hands waiting for gear. I can hear this thing running in my head and it taunts me. I'll get there. Just need to clear the decks and it will be all on.

Get on to that exhaust Ando, I want to see pics. I am a fan of this build.

Get on to that exhaust Ando, I want to see pics. I am a fan of this build.

Sounds like an interesting package and would have been advanced in the 90's for sure. Especially as aftermarket efi was in its infancy. Would have been bloody expensive as well back then. Good on them. Sad news on being destroyed in a house fire.
 
I know I'm not the first to do it. Jason was well ahead of me and probably many others. It's the first time I've played with this level of intake and ignition control as previously my stuff was based around the restrictive 'modified sedans' rule book.
 
I must say that I am enjoying the experience and I'm learning heaps and to me, that's what it is all about. The fact that I get to share my journey with you guys is an added reward. You keep me honest and focused.
 
I will build a turbo version Dave. But not until I get this one nailed and the beauty is most of the gear and knowledge will transfer into that build.

Only problem with a centrifugal blower is that boost rises in direct proportion to revs meaning you have to rev the motor hard to reap the benefits. The roots blower gave a 140hp increase in peak hp with a massive gain in torque which peaks earlier than the centrifugal blower and has quite a flat torque curve until it falls away probably due to the inefficiency of the roots blower. It would be quite good on the street and be better everywhere in the rev range except up top.
I'd go a turbo before a centrifugal blower (or a roots blower for that matter) as you would have much better mid range torque with the top end to match, provided you have correctly sized the turbo of course.
You don't drive with the bonnet up and looks don't matter especially for an under bonnet setup. If you were going a 6/71 look then fair enough but for the money a turbo craps all over any supercharger and you can maintain good drivability. Check this out:

Yeah sure you can repair the cracks, it will crack again right next to the weld due to the properties of the metal changing forever. Then mount a heavy turbo to that. 321 is a lot harder to come by for sure but if you can't get a hold of 321, what's wrong with mild steel? If you want it pretty then ceramic coat it.

I wouldn't use 304 it will crack eventually, it's not rated for high temperatures. 321 is the stuff you want, it's rated for much higher temps. I'd just use ceramic coated mild steel steam pipe personally. It's cheap and should last forever. But if stainless is a must go with 321 grade. I'd go with sched 40

Yeah Matt the extractors are very well made. They have 3 secondary tubes, all of 2 1/4" diameter. That makes for a very big collector which then tapers down to the 3", 3 bolt flange. It has a tapered cone insert in the collector.
 
I plan on still having a reduction at the collector but just not down to 3". It will be 3.5" for a short section and then that piece in the photo.
 
Sorry Dave, no turbo in here and yeah, it has been a bit wordy of late. Just me thinking out aloud and keeping everyone informed of my plans. So the Jonstons did a solid roller cam crossy on meth, with ecu controlled efi, triple ITB's, crank trigger and CPP in the 90's? Wow I'd like to see that car.

Bit of an update. Settled on the 90mm long Jenvey 48mm air horns. Best compromise on total inlet track length.
 

 

 

 
Also got all the bits I needed to finish the throttle linkage. I've started design and manufacture of the custom fuel rail. No 'off the shelf' fuel rail is going to cut it in this application. Machined down a couple of -8 AN fittings to go into each end of the rail and another for reg/return. Bit more math to ensure enough internal volume in the rail.
 
Finalised injector sizing with Pat from Competition Systems. Very knowledgeable bloke. Just waiting on pricing of the genuine Bosch injectors. These come direct from BOSCH Motorsports. No eBay Bosch going on this engine.
 
The list is till very long, but I'm getting there in between paying work and other life stuff.

Well many have said that the crossflows days are done. Well I say nope. Why?
 
Because the weekend just gone, 68 modified productions took to Lismore Speedway to battle for the Australian Modified sedan title for 2015-16.
 
Everything from BA/FG Falcons to latest model v something alloy tec Commodores. Throw in a couple of old Cortys, xf's and VL Commodores as well.
 
And the fastest car and highest point scorer from the heats was a big xf falcon with solid roller cam crossflow goodness. Yep good old crossflow power sitting there on pole at the national title.
 
And we would have had Australia 1 if it were it not for a deflating RR tyre!!!!! But all was not lost as a Ford still won, all be it a BA. The good old crossflow grunted on for very commendable 3rd.
 
If your on Facebook get onto Ash Media and watch the final laps. Watch Gavin in his all conquering crossflow powered XF giving it to the late models. Its pretty damn impressive effort. Yes Gavin can wheel but it still takes serious mumbo to stay competitive against the late model cars.
 
Long live the Crossflow !!

Do NOT fit poxy steel fittings. Whats your address? I will buy you stainless fittings myself if i have too.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AN8-8AN-JIC-MALE-FLARE-STAINLESS-STEEL-WELD-ON-BUNG-FITTING-ADAPTER-ROUND-BASE-/230788710944?hash=item35bc144220:g:S8MAAOxy63FSqCfj

Yeah mate I'm well aware of the Elite and its potential but to be honest in my application I doubt the spend would be worth it.
 
I can control the water pump and it's operation with an off the shelf Davies Craig pump and controller. I need the ewp anyway so the controller is not much more to spend. The autronic has the capability to turn the thermo fan on and off based on various parameters.
I can achieve the same zap with the MSD cpc coils I have settled on and the CDI I currently have.
 
The autronic is old but it is more than capable of logging, both within the ecu and direct to laptop. Plus with the 'one gauge' I am installing I can monitor AFR from my AEM AFR gauge based on time. Add to that I have the use (on loan) of the autronic specific (0-1 volt) AFR meter that will also log direct to ecu. The one gauge can also monitor gearbox temp and a few other things.
 
The convertor issue I will get on top of very early as I will be starting this engine and tuning it in manual form. The corty is currently manual (top loader) and I will set up and tune the engine in this form so I get raw, solid data on where peak torque is occurring. All without having to take the engine a minimum of 400ks to put on an engine dyno. And even then an engine dyno is not indicative of what is occurring when the engine is running its own exhaust system, fuel system etc. etc. I have the use of a very modern mainline 4 wheel dyno for $0, 200 metres from my shop so for me it is a no brainer.
 
The owner of that shop is a great mate and has just come back from the Haltec Elite course, hence I know exactly what they are capable of doing. The emtrom is also an awesome new ecu and is cheaper than the Haltec. Funny thing is when you speak to dudes that do a lot of ecu based tuning, and I'm talking high end Ferrari race cars, and they say other ecu manufacturers could learn a lot from the way autronic (Richard Aubert) does his fuel cal tables, well I start to listen.
 
I have experience with the Haltec platinum sport 1000, and the older Haltec GM based units and I can tell you that this old smc runs with them in all aspects and in some it is actually much more user friendly.
 
Don't get me wrong if I was starting from scratch, without having spent coin on a very decent ecu, then I would have an emtrom of Haltec elite in a heart beat. Old Ray Hall still believes the smc is a very capable ecu. If you read street machine you may have seen an article on Brenton Millers' blown Lexus v8 powered centura. He drove it from Cairns to do Drag week, then did tread cemetery burnouts on the way home back to cairns. All powered by an old autronic smc. I can tell you that they are old, but are a very good ecu.
 
I appreciate your input and if I honestly believed there was significantly more HP or torque or any better tuning advantage by going to the elite, then I would have one. But for now, I am more than happy to use the autronic and matching CDI 500r. Nothing on this engine will be left to chance and I will be giving it a good workout on the dyno in both manual and auto form before it even looks like heading to a drag strip. I love the rolling road and I love pouring over the twin LCD screens worth of data it spits out. It just such a great asset that I am very fortunate to be able to use. Without it I'd be lost.

I'll just leave these here,
 

 

 
Got some more stuff coming later this week. Getting a little bit pumped.

List of good cams:
 
For use with std. EFI ECU, would be good in any otherwise std x-series: Camtech ***-509
 
Should be std. and my pick if you don't plan on changing much else: Camtech ***-503B Tighe 422A
 
Max. recommended for 2.77 gears with stock converter (needs springs), I think these actually need minimum 2.92 diff gears (max. 3.27). Tighe 725 (could use the crow 14892, but it is small for a 280deg. adv. cam)
 
For details see the Camtech and Tighe’s websites.
 
http://www.camtechca..._xflow_hyd.html http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

Afternoon all ☺
Been a very long time since ive been on here. Thought id start a new thread with the new motor going into My 79 TE Cortina Ghia. The crossy is long gone and im going FG barra with T5 now with a twist... Im sick of seeing turbo barra cortys so im going the supercharger route. Number plates still suit my baby then too. Ive got a few photos but progress is slow as i have a Heavy Haulage business and my fleet is demanding haha.
I will be running a BA inlet and standard exhaust for the time being but i have enlisted a Ali fabricator who will help me design the new intake for the M122 i am going to be using.
This time around i will be tubbing it and a spare motor is being built to withstand the power im pushing for.
Anyways pics so far...





 
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Yep. I'd stick with the 4.0l dizzy and make it talk to an MSD. Locked or programmable. Those 4.0l go pretty hard. Had an injected one in the (very) old skid pig. Actually still have it. I used ef bottom end, Au vct head and broadband manifold (it was a pvan so it had log) re-ground big lumpy stick and had chip torque do a custom chip for it. Man it went hard.
 
About to give it to pogo but we will convert it to carb as above. I already have an aussiespeed 4.0l manifold here.

Programmable ignition is not way more expensive anymore and it is better so use it.
 
In saying this, a very high stalled drag car may not see the benefit (as Crazy has said).
 
But, if you do not have a massive (over-stalled) drag car, it is borderline stupid to run locked timing. If you are getting away with it, you must not have enough compression.
 
You can still have an advance curve and use a 6AL or a street fire.

Typically, Advance is added as aggressively as possible until the engine reaches the point it is designed to start making power. At this point the curve flattens out, advancing between 0-2º per 1000rpm.
For example, at WOT,
800rpm is 5º advance, 1200>12º, 1700>19º, 2000>24º, 2400>26º, 2700>29º, 3000>32º, 3500>33º, 4500>34º, 5500>35º, 6500>35º
Sure you can add more timing/be more aggressive at the higher RPM, but at that RPM discerning engine knock from all the other noise becomes difficult, and the advance will be of little to no gain in HP.
 
Rob's car stalls at above what would usually be the "all in" for advance, Totally missing the advantage gained by computer controlled advance during the lower RPM.
There is no argument that computer advance will be better, as far as spark management/control goes. Rob just notices no difference, because he stalls the bloody thing at 4500rpm or something equally as ridiculous.
 
/point. can anyone submit a rebuttal?

I don't think your assessment of your cars performance on jake's dyno is valid because of the coil issue. I'm yet to tune a car with a programmable ignition that makes more power with locked timing than with a good curve - and I've tuned a few as has cliff.
 
Yes some run locked timing with nitrous and pull timing but out and survive but some blokes also like blokes - doesn't make it right.
 
I know you and I will have this discussion/ non agreement till the end of time but I can tell you all engines need programmable ignitions. Anything else is just a compromise. If it were not true, why would we have ecu's with variable timing and fuel curves and the ability to overlay the 2.
 
Step out of the eighties Rob. You won't look back. Yes engines will run with locked timing BUT they run much better with programmable, especially when you add the map into the equation like gerg has done on his streeter. Really you can't beat that.

Thats the norm dave they all seem like poo

Your having good luck aaron, I had to do my ute for its roady, it looked like that and it was all new. replaced it all anyway and 10.000km in its all broken again

what shits me is having to do a job twice cause of them rubber boots most go like that in a short amount of time I did a brand new Cortina front end last year that car has never moved more then in and out of the shed and is lik that 

Gee. I've been bush for four days with no phone or internuts. It's been busy in here.
 
The target for this engine is well over 400hp at the crank. I honestly believe that this is attainable based on the flow figures, cam and compression. I'm pretty much all over theoretical HP calculations and all the stuff you read. THOR is right on the optimum numbers that all my mentors talked about. These are men that have built way more engines than I and who live, eat and breath engines.
 
Old faithful has way less cylinder head, camshaft and comp and pumps 260@the tyres thru a 3500 stall. At the end of the day it will make what it makes.
 
Yes Dave - this is going in the corty drag car. It will be a stripped out, dedicated drag car. I make no apologies for running it in such a car. It's what I want to do and to me a light corty makes a lot of sense.