matt_lamb_160

Just the front bush. Allows change in geometry under braking and relies on flexing the rubber/mount for bump travel. Yes it is reliable and does it flex that much under braking, maybe not. But out of the entire arrangement it is more of an obvious area of improvement than most other things addressed by these kits and I wouldn't be spending big everywhere else and leaving it as is. It's just a matter of replacing it with a proper joint.

If you are planning to turbo, you are better off with stock or slightly longer than stock rods anyway. I would not use 200 rods, the benefit of the longer rods is for NA applications. There are pistons that exist for the AU rods that will work, but you will need to look. Just make sure the rod length + piston compression height add up to the same value as it does with the stock setup. If it is price that turned you off of the Spool rods, forget about 300hp NA + more later. If you have never driven a near stock crossflow and a decent sized turbo (say GT3582R) running 8-12 psi boost, you should try that first before committing to this build. 

If you are planning to turbo, you are better off with stock or slightly longer than stock rods anyway. I would not use 200 rods, the benefit of the longer rods is for NA applications. There are pistons that exist for the AU rods that will work, but you will need to look. Just make sure the rod length + piston compression height add up to the same value as it does with the stock setup. If it is price that turned you off of the Spool rods, forget about 300hp NA + more later. If you have never driven a near stock crossflow and a decent sized turbo (say GT3582R) running 8-12 psi boost, you should try that first before committing to this build. 

Yep with a stock valvetrain, just a decent set of valve springs, decent head gasket & fresh bottom end. Stock CR is perfect for a turbo.
 
 
 
 
 
 

McDonald bros sell a double adjustable bolt in coil over for under $1000. Well only just barely under and few years back but after doing a couple DC events and many street miles can reccomend them as a option.
 
Takes longer to remove the old shit than it does to install the new stuff. And setting em up is different to what most think. But each car is wanting its own set up as per driver style wants needs and use.

similar setup to what im running, i used global west lower and upper, viking coil overs, rrs castor arms handles like a dream 

+1

i prefer lows because the car still drives fine (not much bump steer, and has suspension travel still)

Camtech do a 201 deg at 50thou cam that will work (CT142 509). Will be a strong cam with standard 2.77 or 2.92 gears, especially at highway speed. Probably aim at 9.5:1 compression and use good fuel. I always pick Camtech over Crow, but that is just me.

Tonys Metal and Speed. There is some cool clevo in chev rat rod in there to distract you. Enjoy. 

With a Spool imports (or similar) 101mm stroker crank you get 296ci and the engine is still square. Just need to drop $3.5+k on a crank.

I think that the easier way is to build a 1FZ-FE. 275ci (and kits to take them to 311ci), 4 valves per cylinder, alloy head, 100mm bore, good ignition setup and ok parts availability  (although $$$).

And they take boost and love it... They're the big block JZ

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

I think that the easier way is to build a 1FZ-FE. 275ci (and kits to take them to 311ci), 4 valves per cylinder, alloy head, 100mm bore, good ignition setup and ok parts availability  (although $$$).

I think that the easier way is to build a 1FZ-FE. 275ci (and kits to take them to 311ci), 4 valves per cylinder, alloy head, 100mm bore, good ignition setup and ok parts availability  (although $$$).

You have to over bore and sleeve to suit then grout the block up to the welsh plugs at least. 
 
But again still limited by head gasket to around 3.82 from memory unless you go custom copper maybe. Moving the bore away from the valve is good move for power and cyl head flow aswell so a move to a 3.9 or 4.0 slug would be awesome in a xflow. 
 
Possible??? Well just asking the question makes it doable imo. No better way to dis prove peoples doubts than doing it.

OK some dissection of your plan:

"port & polish" - just port, not polish. Polishing is a waste of time and has a negative effect on fuel atomisation and air velocity.

"zero deck block" - good move

"40 thou piston" - only if it needs it. Boring gives a negligible increase in displacement and power, so just go the absolute minimum to clean up the wear.

"crow 14892" - might be a tad small for what you want. I would go a size or two up.

14770 - 214/224 510"/514", 111LSA
14550S - 219/223 510"/510" 106LSA (speedway cam, a bit cranky)
14686 - 224/224 507"/507" 108LSA (also cranky)

But the one you quoted might feel a bit wheezy on the track.

"stronger valve springs" yep good move. Go at least 115lb on the seat, high 200s on the nose. I got Crane Blue Racers pretty cheap. If you want the motor to live a long, happy life, invest in some good roller rockers. The stock rockers (with stiffer springs) will burn through your oil, wear out quicker and put stress on your valve stems.

"Megasquirt ECU" - can't comment on that one but they must be OK if they're still in business.

Now some more to add:

Get it balanced (pistons, rods). Invest in a good harmonic balancer. These engines don't like RPM with an untouched bottom end.

When determining how much comp you need, focus on dynamic compression ratio, not static. This means that you select your compression ratio based on how the cam works in relation to the piston position. There are online calculators that help you with this. On an alloy head, aim for about 8.5:1 dynamic. You need to know the engine parameters to input though, which will require other calculators to find.

This is a good site:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

Be careful when shaving the head/block to zero deck the pistons. Your pushrod length will be affected.

A lighter flywheel does wonders for engine response and fast gearchanges. An 8kg zero balance 157 tooth Windsor one will bolt on.

The stock EFI bananas can start to get restrictive with only small increases in power. EA-ED logs are a good conversion, this also swaps intake piping to the cold side of the engine. If done right, the setup can look like it was made to be there.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Hi all, I would like to setup some XB GT 12 slotter style centre caps (skull caps) like the first image below, but with a black base and a Ford crest centre like in the second image. What is the best way to do this? Does the centre piece on XF onwards skull caps come off? If so, what is their inside diameter at the base?
 
.

fitted on a 4x4 at some point?

Smart man speaking here^^^^. Listen. 

No. Hook it up to a programmable MSD 6AL2 and then you can have any curve you like and to suit any cam.

No. Hook it up to a programmable MSD 6AL2 and then you can have any curve you like and to suit any cam.

No. Hook it up to a programmable MSD 6AL2 and then you can have any curve you like and to suit any cam.

if the EST works fine, keep it. because it works fine. 
the leaded dissy also works fine, if you want to use it just join the 2 wires to the coil as it is now.
 
the engines aren't very different, other than rear main seal, maybe flywheel bolt size and various vacuum hose layout..