matt_lamb_160

keep this in mind, when designing the air box
 

I'm sure some suggested that above somewhere....

Seriously apologise to all for the lack of action in this thread.  I have been stupidly busy trying to screw together a tuff V6 Commodore for Ross, my main competition in the 6 cylinder class.  But this v6 is not for him, its for his daughter.
 

 

 
Heads were pretty ordinary to start with;
 

 
Gave them heaps of love
 

 
 
Promise I will get back into the MSC next week.  I have the burette still on the bench from this build so I will CC the heads and see where I am at with the chambers.

Cast 29cc pistons preped stock rods this thing has been 9.27 at 146mph and is reason enough for me to stay with my cast slugs and stock rods


 

I totally disagree with that comment Ryan.  When cars are on the dyno, they are strapped down to within a inch of their lives.  A stiffer suspension set up will actually help in gaining a very true reading of HP as the car cannot climb the front roller as easily.
 
The inaccuracies and fudged dyno figures usually occur when the car is not strapped down correctly and is allowed to climb off the rear roller and just spin the front roller.

The stiffer the sidewall of the tyre the more accurate power reading you will get out of the dyno (if it is tied down correctly). 
 
I'm not just pulling this from my own experience.  I heard it straight from the Australian distributor of Mainline dyno's when he installed Cliffs dyno.  Loosen the straps and you get a better number were his near exact words.
 
Therefore I would say that the stiffer the cars suspension the more likely you are of getting it real tight on the dyno and you will make accurate HP, hopefully big numbers to - but that is up to your head and then camshaft - but that's another story.

My turbo motor has cast pistons, its in the tune. Dont drop 1k on pistons that will most likely not be needed. I loooove this thread though

Yeah Matt.  That's why I like the idea of the 465.  smaller primaries and then big secondaries when you need them.  Best of both worlds. 
 
I'm leaving the mechanical vs vacuum alone.  In this build I think the OP would be better with the vac secondaries and just go out and enjoy the engine.

Less talkey more buildey... 

Agree with Ando, 1/4 mile times do not show the true disadvantage of the 500 Holley for street use.

A 600 is a bit big for the cam and use that you have suggested, bit bigger carb and primarily for drag racing and it is a different story. A 465 will give up very little on a 600 up until 5,250rpm.
 
4brl is worth the extra cash unless you only ever drive between 2500 and 4000rpm in which case a 500 Holley will be just as good. Above and below that a vac secondary 4brl will be better.
 
Plenum volume on an Aussiespeed is pretty big too when you consider that a large part of their big fat runners is more or less doing what a plenum does.

Personally I think the four barrel and the 465 is the go.  The smaller primaries will allow the thing to cruise along and not guzzle the juice, but when you want go you just bang the hammer down and you have all four venturi working. 
 
That way if you decide to change the cam for a big solid later on you can sell your 465 and bang on a 600 and you don't have to outlay for another manifold.

Yeah, he jumped in while I was editing damn it!! Haha.
 
3% increase in capacity (over standard) for thinner walls? I say not worth it.

Get a 4brl
 
Don't bore it more than you need to. No real advantage in going oversive.
 
For bearing and ring size, the machine shop will tell you how much they have machined.

Yeah, he jumped in while I was editing damn it!! Haha.
 
3% increase in capacity (over standard) for thinner walls? I say not worth it.

Get a 4brl
 
Don't bore it more than you need to. No real advantage in going oversive.
 
For bearing and ring size, the machine shop will tell you how much they have machined.

I've used edelbrock's before and I love them, once you work out how to to tune one they are a very easy carb to use, just one thing if you use one you have to use a fuel pressure reg to drop the pressure down to 4 psi or you will have flooding and needle and seat issues

That's it, you literally piss it against a wall or in a mates ear where as the engine will give you more joy for longer. BUT you also need to be careful especially when your engine is at the machine shop with this sort of attitude cause the bill can jump pretty quick when they ring you and need an answer on a part choice (ask me how I know ). You need to be able to trust the machine shop and the people selling/recommending parts are looking out for what you want and what suits your requirements and don't get caught up in a chase for horsepower. You will be very surprised has fast a $2500 rebuild turns in to a $4000 rebuild.
This statement is not aimed at anybody it is just what I have experienced in my build.  I think it is scary the number of horror stories where a machine shop has either doubled the bill price or done such a bad job that it has destroyed an engine

For an extra 200 odd bucks I may as well get the good one... Spent more than that on alcohol last weekend so can't really get stingy with go faster bits.
 
I'm leaning towards a 465 Holley unless anyone else has some suggestions. Has the added bonus that my old man has a fair bit of experience with them apparently and can help me set it up right.

That manifold will be easier to tune and it is half the price of Marks. Won't make the same power but there still good and waaaaaaaaaay better than 2 barrel.

I'll say one thing.
 
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=509iendKbO8
 
All that with stock 200rods, ACL cast pistons and that engine has been together for near on 8 years before that skid in the same form.
 
Think you are going to treat your engine harder than that - Go the forged bottom end.
 
Apart from that - I have nothing to add.....

Nath answer this question and be totally honest with yourself don't tell anyone the answer if you don't want but make sure you answer is honestly. Look into the future and see yourself driving your car and look at the tacho. Do you see the tacho revving over 6500rpm for long periods of time? If the answer is yes then look at the forged bottom end either the deal you can get or the spool kit that Sly said about. If you only see 6500rpm and over for a short period of time just run a standard 250 setup and use pistons from here http://www.precisionintl.com/ . I bought my pistons for my solid roller cammed crossflow with 10.5CR that I'm hoping will make over 300RWHP and will have rev limit set to around 6200rpm and they cost me $220 with hastings rings.
Seriously mate everyone likes to rev the engine a bit but you seem like you have a bit of mechanical sympathy so I can't see that you need to go to the expanse of a 200 rod setup. 200 rod setups are the same as e series cranks in a crossflow, if your revving high in the rpm range for long periods of time then it warranted (like a race car) other wise save yourself $2000 and spend that money else where.

My Proflow Cleveland extractors on my black ute are made from 316,
from memory stainless works in usa say, 316 is better for regular hi temp conditions like race extractors or turbo manifolds & 304 for exhausts
my AU utes extractors are 304 and where fitted 3 years ago. As is the 100 cell cat section I made for it and 7 year old 3" twin tip.
which is 2nd hand milk line from a dairy supplies place, my dad worked it cost 1/2 price of new tube.

And who pulls a trailer at 3000RPM? LOL kids

Have you driven both with 2 ton straped upto the back up the hills out of Melbourne? the 6 does it in 2nd gear the v8 chugs past in top using half the fuel cause its making torque where you can use it

Like I said people use a V8 to tow trailers for a reason. Same torque at half the revs you only have to drive the two and you can feel the v8 have a heaps more torque much lower down then the 6 does but I speak for real world experience not what I read in a book








 

 

50mm primaries? Really? That's big unless they are really thick. Secondaries are about right, primaries should be 42-44mm.

Hence my diameter of exhaust valve question.......