Fingers

Things I know about boost:
 
A magical snail whistles and makes your car go faster.

port matched?

The Barra is king! No shit, anyone who tells you they can get more power out of ANY 6cyl engine for a dollar figure is dreaming or never looked at the Barra engine. Ford learned almost 40 years on how to make the damn thing bulletproof and with a few thousands you can get a taxi $300 engine to take 1000 hp.
The crossflow will sound nicer thou and you'll see, it will be cranky and more characterful than the Barra but won't be as reliable or powerful. Crossflows with big cams are like hookers....

All this nasty talk makes me want a 253

PM 50 is 25-50?? if so it may just be a bit better than a penrite.  Try some FUCHS Race 60 'TITAN' I think they call it now - its a 25-50 oil and is full of zinc and copper.  great oil that and holds it pressure very well - especially if you add a 1/3rd of a bottle of slick 50 in it.  The slick 50 is not really needed in your application but in speedway and metho based engines it helps keep everything nice.  Try some - you will love it - doesn't take long to get up to temp either.

I had a similar issue with air cleaner clearance on a slant 6 Valiant.
One of the things I did to gain a bit of clearance was to shorten the passenger side engine mount bracket by 3/4", which gained more than an inch at the carburettor, I also raised the back of the bonnet about 3/4".

Fark me my head hurts reading all this! Lol.

2 pieces of 10mm flat,one on the front one on the back with a 1/2" bolt thru the pair.Tighten the bolt... 

Hi

I am not a More door MK1 fan, but that car just looks right

I agree, they are a bit odd looking.
That said, I would also like to have one.

I agree, they are a bit odd looking.
That said, I would also like to have one.

It's probably just the angle of the photo but there's something about that rear end that just looks... odd? Think I'd have to modify it slightly but I'd have to see it in the flesh first to decide what to do with it.

And yeah a van would be easiest to convert but I was thinking they were fewer in numbers in Oz than 2dr sedan. I think you can bring in cars from the UK now can't you? Talk with someone who deals in British car parts, get a shell brought in, put local stuff into it. I suggest it in that method because it means no worries about asbestos checks.

there's a guy at ABS in FTGully, was saying they proved the escorts handled better on 13" rims (rally driven) .. 
i noticed My gemini still sticks like glue on the 13s but tyre roll is far more noticable. 
i'd prefer to see some minilites as wide as can be fitted with stock arches

thats pretty good value. 
 
dont tempt me haha. i havent got the space to store a 4th car  
 

Came up with a few images, could be useful

And hopefully this one is good enough quality to scale up

@Fingers 
 
these are the parcel shelves i purchased for my first Mk1. I wish id kept them now. but mine are in OK condition for originals 
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Escort-Mk1-Under-Dash-Trays-Set/153781734073?epid=1041163929&hash=item23ce1b0ab9:g:7L4AAOSwvAReC6jV

All done for now. 
I just have to replace the screws holding it in with some new flat headed screws, but done for now. 
 
ive ordered the gauges, so the next thing will be to make the wiring harness for the gauges. 
 
 

https://i.imgur.com/ncLiTeT.jpg

Ill have a look around the more common UK parts suppliers and see who is doing them. If i find something ill get back to you 

who knows. this was an unknown head remember lol 
 
but all the signs told me it had never been used since being rebuilt. and evidently GT spec head, so it would already be flowing better than a standard head. I also went back to a single squirt pump jet in the carby, and that seems to have helped. less cough and hesitation, probably because its no longer flooding the engine every time i hit the throttle  

Well its finished
 
My temp gauge now does not work. i think the sender in the new head is dead  
that means draining the cooling system again to swap it 😕 
 
I have taken it for a drive for about half hour. 
 
The car doesnt necessarily feel any faster, but it is so much happier to rev now. 
it seems to build revs a lot faster now. It now seems smoother with its power delivery too. so maybe it is faster and i just dont notice it. 

Giving it a run onto the freeway, usually it would take what seemed a long time to get to 5000rpm where my shift light comes in, and i would shift at around 5500rpm. now, 6000rpm is nothing to it. and the shift light seems to come on very quickly  
So I think I am happy, but I will take it for a longer drive tomorrow to stretch its legs and see what its like then  
 
 
 
 

Your crossy makes around 150 HP stock, so a target of 200-250 on about 10 psi is what a stock bottom end is more than adequate to handle. Mild boost won't kill conrods, rpm and/or big boost does. Rpm rips them apart, big boost bends them.

Your stock valvetrain will suffice, provided you keep the cam specs mild. That means a working limit of 0.500" lift. Upgraded valvesprings will be the exception.

The key to making boost on standard compression is fuel and ignition management. This is where investing in a good aftermarket system will pay off. Sure there are people who've managed to use OEM computers, etc. but it will always be a compromise. Infinite tuneability will overcome any design shortcomings when adding boost.

On a crossy, the EFI manifold is not ideal for turbo applications, for a few reasons:

The middle 2 cylinders get first shot at the airflow.

The throttle body draws air from the hot side of the engine.

If using a right-to-left intercooler, the air outlet is on the opposite side of the engine to where the throttle is pointing.

And lastly, the manifold itself may become a performance restriction at a certain power level.

So it's best to seek an alternative, and the most cost-effective and simple one is by using an EA-ED log manifold adapted to the crossy inlet flange. It puts the throttle to the front and down, simplifying the installation and minimising turbo piping and keeping everything away from heat.

I can't make any suggestions for your turbo selection as that's not my area of expertise. Exhaust manifold can be a simple log type made from cast bends. No need to go all out with tuned runners on a mild setup. KISS principle wins here

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Or perhaps a C4 and a 4500 convertor so you can go fast?

OK your not gunna listen for what ever reason but I'll tell you anyway,actually pretend Im xrglenn for a while if it helps.
 
You can fit and use all this shit before you even do the engine so,buy a MSD Street fire Ignition for $179,get a TFI dizzy,and a good coil or a basic Bosch unit.That ignition system will now power any future combo you come up with.Ask Clint how well his TFI MSD combo worked out for him amongst others.Simple basic and the BEST thing you could do for any single combo you come up with as it will allow you make HP not limit HP like a electronic dizzy will.Why do I say this...because I have done it and have the results from all bar a crank trigger ignition and for the money I have to ask why not do it as all you will do is miss out on FREE HP.
 
Use no less than a 2.5 exhaust and get the collectors modified to enhance flow/scavenging.This again is totally free hp like the ignition and can be done to any engine in any state of tune at any time.
 
Buy a Romac or Powerbond balancer,I would and do use a custom Powerbond unit but as Glenn likes Romac use one of them if you wish.Again you can use this component on any engine at all at any time and it is FREE HP.
 
Next up buy and fit a DC electric water pump as it's FREE HP.I hope your getting the idea here by now.
 
After this is all fitted tested and made to work how you like start buying engine parts every week as needed.Buy 125lb dual springs,new retainers,locks to suit your stock valve gear will do for now.Any bigger and your into single groove territory.A gasket set to suit the intended rebuild,a camshaft and lifter kit after you consult with Camtech,sorry Crow in your case and do speak to them via the ph not just purchase something cheap off eBay FFS.I would advise you to ring Camtech and speak to Jim Tamborello aswell as they WILL help you.A set of bolt on roller rockers even 2nd hand of eBay if your that concerend about spending money on em will help.Scorpion do not make bolt adjustable's as I have a set on my ute engine and they need the head machined and a set of studs fitted that are just not needed here ATM.That said you don't need adjustable units here either,just roller rockers will free up HP aswell.
 
Then purchase your inlet,I cannot suggest a 4 barrel enough but if you want more throttle response and LESS HP and torque go for a 2 barrel manifold and carb combo.
 
If you buy it all as you go it will spread the $$$ out and allow you to spend a little more where it is needed.A car is a combination of parts so it will need a convertor and a set of gears to suit aswell so purchase with this in mind the whole time.
 
Thats me...

Yes, they would have lots of lawyers


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