Thom

3 speed manual were usually 3.5:1

No exhaust flows through that tube it fits to the outside of the exhaust manifold, its just a heat riser to aid with warming up in cold climates, the on in that pic wouldn't work because the vacuum canister on top of the air cleaner that controls the flap to direct the warm air into the engine isn't hooked up

Butchery was mentioned
i think a wrecker trip will be needed.. 

That is correct, the dip sticks are different depending on intake, I think from memory (a 14 year old one at this point) a log dip stick can be used with a bbm but not the other way around, if being very careful you may be able to bend the bbm dip stick to fit the log manifold but some butchery may have to happen to the mounting bracket

Unfortunately for you you'll have to source 221 specific flex plate, 221 (and 188) have the smaller pcd for the crank bolts like an earlier six cylinder but the step down to the crank flange is deeper like a later 6 cylinder, if you are lucky (or are having a converter made) you might be able to use the b/w flex plate with the c4 converter

Reckon the top hose on the water pump goes straight to the firewall, then out to the heater tap, then to the lower brass take off spigot thingy. Yeah, and through a double clamp that hangs off the shock tower bolt.
 
Pretty sure VL 5.0 litre heater hose is the easiest to use, its about a metre long with a 90* bend on the end, so you don't end up kinking the hose. cant remember the number...... it's 3 am.

I Fitted 18" snowflakes to the XD today
 

275/35 on the rear and 235/40 on the front.
 

My dad has one in his model a, the aerial is mounted on the dash in an inconspicuous spot, only time It doesn't have a signal is in big tunnels or underground car parks, his one is a speed hut unit

My dad has one in his model a, the aerial is mounted on the dash in an inconspicuous spot, only time It doesn't have a signal is in big tunnels or underground car parks, his one is a speed hut unit

My dad has one in his model a, the aerial is mounted on the dash in an inconspicuous spot, only time It doesn't have a signal is in big tunnels or underground car parks, his one is a speed hut unit

Chek you thermostat, does the car warm up properly?
Also could be a blocked cat

SENDERS Pulse rate XD and XE are same, 8 pulse per tailshaft rev (XF to EL  and possibly newer are 10 pulse)
 
look at your speedo gear on the sender, but more importantly the wires going into the sender, they often break right at the sender.
the gear from the Borg warner 35/40 will fit the single rail (ratios will vary mostly on the diff ratio) 
if it had a C4 auto, that gear runs the opposite direction and that gear doesn't mesh with the other box. 
 
with the volt meter, do you mean intermittent as in it ticks when the blinker is on? this is normal, drops when you put the brakes on, headlights etc. Normal. 

i'd check the wires at the speedo sender first, wires where they are glued into the back of the sender. 

Nice write-up... It's uncanny how similar your swap is to mine, with the following differences:

* My engine's a mild 302C

* I used a Toploader bellhousing and made up a slave cylinder mounting bracket (it was for an F-truck mechanical clutch with no slave).

* I filled the old bolt holes with cut off bolts and silver soldered them in, and the top T5 mount bolts are M12 wheel studs soldered into the bellhousing. Bottom ones are just drilled and tapped. The mount face on a toploader bell extends far enough down for the standard T5 lower bolts to meet, hence the reason for choosing the toploader one.

* I originally had 3.27 gears (from an XG ute) but went over to 3.08s when I redid my diff. It sits on about 2000 doing 90. The T5 is from my old EA so 5th is 0.78 and 1st is 3.50. like you said, it's a bit short but on the plus side, doesn't need too much clutch slip to get going.

* I used an EL wagon alloy tailshaft as it's the right length and was 30 bucks.

* I eventually went to a 3/4" trailer-type master cylinder and a Jaguar 7/8” slave, the master previously swapped because I'd already chewed out 3 of the standard 5/8” ones and got sick of being stranded. You can pick up a trailer master cylinder at any parts store, so I'm covered there. The Jag slave was to get the bore ratios back closer to standard (clutch was very heavy with the 1:1 ratio).

* I'd previously made my shifter into a short-shift by spacing up the pivot plate and extending the ball pivot by the same amount. I also made a new stick out of some water pipe, put some bends in it to point it more toward the driver and solid-mounted it to the lower part, eliminating the slop in the rubber bushes they come with.

* My mileage didn't really change much from the single rail, maybe by 1L/100 km but the biggest change came from doing up a 650 spreadbore pumper for economy. It's an outstanding street carby, it's the 4th one I've had on it and is the best. I'm now getting 15L/100 fairly consistently, with lovely low speed smoothness yet no need for a choke in winter.

I can't say I'm a huge fan of the T5, it's nowhere near as nice to shift as a tight single rail, and the 2-3 shift under power is always baulky and leaves you fumbling.

I have a write-up on my install somewhere on here, starting from about 8 years ago.

Anyway nice work mate, hope it makes a difference for you.

Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

so first off why would you do a t5 conversion? for most people its going to be fuel economy and lower RPM cruising and are not likely to be giving this thing a hard time so a t5 should do the job fine, so why convert a single rail bellhousing and not buy a rod shop bellhousing? well last i looked it was going to cost me almost $900 to my door and that's a lot of fuel money my friends. So if your looking to do this conversation you've probably already done some research but if not, you must use a 6 cylinder  t5 from an xf or whenever they started using them to an el Falcon, au and onwards will need custom tail shaft and shifter won't line up, can't used v8 bellhousing or gearbox it would be way too much trouble, 6 cylinder t5 is almost identical to the single rail.   This is to document my experience with converting from a single rail with a bellhousing that has only been drilled for single rail in an XC falcon with an almost stock cleveland with an EB diff running 3.27 gears currently sitting on about 2800rpm at 100kmph using about 20.5l/per 100km       Ok let's get into it, after you've got your bellhousing/gearbox out first thing you'll need to do to your t5 is turn down the input bearing housing about 1.6mm so it'll fit in the hole, if you don't have access to a lathe a machine shop will make very light work of it and won't cost much at all to get done. i had an empty case to help me work out how to go about it.      Then that's done fit it back to the gearbox and after you've got straight as you can you can start working out where your going to tap your new holes, the two top t5 mounting holes can be used so do them first use a punch to mark the holes (transfer punch would make this easy) and then drill and tap, I used 12x1.75 bolts that come with my T5.       Bolt the gearbox back onto the bellhousing and now you can workout the two bottom mounts, as you can see the bottom t5 mount's are lower then the face of the bellhousing so what I did for the right side is make a mark just above the t5 hole, drilled and tapped it then bolt the gearbox back on and center punched the case from the inside of the bellhousing and then drilled the t5 case, as for the bottom left there is no meat in the bellhousing casting inline with the t5 case so I tapped a hole just beside the case and used a clamp style mount on this side that consists of a spacer that falls just short of the thickness of the case and another plate that overlaps the case making it clamp down when tightened against it, this could also be used on the other side if you don't want to drill the case.       So this should have us sorted for mounting the box to the bellhousing now we'll move onto the cross member, measuring from the face of the box there is about 43mm difference between the two so I used part of the EB cross member and welded it to the back of the cross member about 45mm back (you could use a bit of plate or that ever will pick up the mount,plenty of adjustment no need for it to be perfect just needs to be centre) thinking it would be a great idea to use the square hole but it ended up making it very hard to bolt them together it kinda got stuck between the gearbox and the exhaust headers and I couldn't get it low enough due to the exhaust to get the gearbox mount bolt in the hole. so  I think if this hole was slotted it would go much easier.       So getting the gearbox in the car I bolted the bellhousing on to the engine and made a few attempts to slide the gearbox on, what I ended up doing is cutting the shifter hole in the floor all the way to the back of the hump mine had about an inch of over hang and that had to go so the shifter housing could get high enough, I also found I couldn't have the shifter Bolted to the gearbox and the hole in my shifter hump is too small to out it through the top so I hung it in the hole with a screwdriver and bolted it on the gearbox after it was in the car. And as I said I struggled with getting the cross member on, I almost dropped one of the headers but ended up getting there.       So everything else goes on just like the single rail,. The internet said to fill it with a half and half mix of vmx80 and dex3 ATF and it seems to shift nice, I made a gear stick with the same bend and thread as the single rail and used the knob to make it look like nothing's been changed.        Final thoughts are, first gear is a bit short but not the end of the world gets off the line nicely, it doesn't have as positive feel when shifting but still alright, down shifts much nicer than the single rail, sits on about 2200rpm at 100 in 5th. Will have some fuel economy numbers after a few hundred k's.    Hopefully this helps I've probably missed something but anyway I did my best.        rotio's , i'm told the EL box is the best one to get as its a 'world class' and its a bit stronger. EA T5 1st: 3.50:1 2nd: 2.14:1 3rd: 1.39:1 4th: 1.00:1 5th: 0.78:1 EB2-EL T5 (6 cyl) 1st: 3.25:1 2nd: 1.99:1 3rd: 1.29:1 4th: 1.00:1 5th: 0.72:1

With the bf bellhousing you will lose your column shift linkage mount, to keep the xg column shift setup you will need an au column shift bellhousing

yes, i'll tell you now if you enjoy driving it AVOID super lows. (will bottom out on bump stops/shocks and bump steer).
 
i had LOWS in most of My cars, and think they are the best compromise if you don't like standard height. 
 
i fitted the raised springs to one of My cars once, and it looked dorky.. but seemed to drive fine.
 
i had an ESP and i reckon the springs were on the softer side, they'd probably be on par with fairmont ghia springs if you could even find them either.. 
 
new king springs if you want a firmer ride, (spring wise)
new pedders springs for a slightly softer ride (spring wise) 
 
SHOCKS... 
you'd definitely want BETTER shocks for KING Lows, big bore ULTIMA on ebay seem the go for the budget minded, otherwise the big bore pedders or Konis etc are the go if you can afford the extra cost. 
 
the pedders being slighty softer (in My opinion) you'd get away with monroe GTs etc  the pedders springs are softer and do body roll more in my opnion (this is also assuming nothings changed in the last 15yrs or so)
 
BUSHES.. 
body roll is GREATLY reduced with nolathane or poly bushes especially on the link bushes. 
 
other bushes i prefer rubber, but more for longevity than performance. 
 
there will be several other opinions on this, so consider waiting for others to join in with their experience, but i used to drive between 600 and 800km  a week in the XD XE XFs for 10yrs and that's what i am going on. 
 
idler arms lasted 6 months before they were getting sloppy. 

The issue with swapping BTR , up to AU the solenoids earth through the case . BA on the wiring harness is different and all gearbox earths return to ECU 
 
Just something to be aware of when you are setting up which computer to use . Harnesses can be swapped although there can be differences where the plug fits the main case 

Pretty sure the fg sump won't fit the xg, fg's have a rear sump, earlier engines have a front sump, I wouldn't be surprised if the fg sump hits your drag link, an au/ba/bf will hit the sway bar in an xg, but there are 3 solutions to this, make spacers for the sway bar to move it out of the way, aftermarket sway bar that clears the alloy sump (I think whiteline make one) or you could modify the front of the sump to clear

Tuff Mounts make one, think it was about $400 last year(mate bought one to fit AU engine in XG) 
in this package with mounts for engine 
https://www.tuffmounts.com.au/product/conversion-kits/tuff-mounts-barra-conversion-kit-into-xa-xf-ford-falcon/

Pretty sure the fg sump won't fit the xg, fg's have a rear sump, earlier engines have a front sump, I wouldn't be surprised if the fg sump hits your drag link, an au/ba/bf will hit the sway bar in an xg, but there are 3 solutions to this, make spacers for the sway bar to move it out of the way, aftermarket sway bar that clears the alloy sump (I think whiteline make one) or you could modify the front of the sump to clear

Hey Thom thanks for the response,  I’m currently talking to a guy about buying his BF barra with btr attached as well as ecu. It comes with an FG sump and pickup for better clearance I believe.
Ive messaged Bill Hooten about a harness, slowly educating myself on these as I’m a newbie to Fords. 
Thanks again 👍

Schematics etc ......
XG Outback ute.
Twin Fuel Tank .



 
Done.
Now I have a better camera on my phone.

 
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I'm sure your correct on ea 2 being a stand alone loom, it would make sense as during ea/eb they made some pretty big changes so having the loom being separated makes sense, one thing with ea-eb looms is they had a separate trans controller and trans loom like the 5.0l did up until au, and while my memory is a bit foggy on some of this stuff (its probably been 15 years since i played around with any ea/eb's) I'm pretty sure that when smartlock was introduced the tcu was integrated into the ecu, if you use an ecu that is smartlock equipped it doesn't matter if you've used a smartlock loom or not the ecu has to have smartlock turned off for it to work

Wanting to eliminate excess wiring leads me to think of only a couple of ways and both could be more time consuming than pulling the dash out, you could un pick the engine and trans harness from the xg loom and discard the rest, this would let you setup the wiring to the engine as a stand alone and only tie into the existing loom at the ignition switch and alternator, this setup would require a j3 chip (or moates quaterhorse etc) to disable smartlock (you probably will need that anyway unless you put the whole loom from the xg including body control modules and steering column), you could do this with any e series loom, an el one would probably be ideal as they are the neatest factory loom and already have provisions for themo fans and a broad band manifold controller

Another route you could try is getting a barra loom and ecu mofied to run your sohc 4.0 as a stand alone unit, bill hooten and a few others on Facebook do these but they are all backed up for months so I can only guess how long you would have to wait, if you were game you could modify the loom yourself but the ecu would need to be re flashed to suit, and you would still have to get hold of a barra engine/trans loom and ecu

Wanting to eliminate excess wiring leads me to think of only a couple of ways and both could be more time consuming than pulling the dash out, you could un pick the engine and trans harness from the xg loom and discard the rest, this would let you setup the wiring to the engine as a stand alone and only tie into the existing loom at the ignition switch and alternator, this setup would require a j3 chip (or moates quaterhorse etc) to disable smartlock (you probably will need that anyway unless you put the whole loom from the xg including body control modules and steering column), you could do this with any e series loom, an el one would probably be ideal as they are the neatest factory loom and already have provisions for themo fans and a broad band manifold controller

Another route you could try is getting a barra loom and ecu mofied to run your sohc 4.0 as a stand alone unit, bill hooten and a few others on Facebook do these but they are all backed up for months so I can only guess how long you would have to wait, if you were game you could modify the loom yourself but the ecu would need to be re flashed to suit, and you would still have to get hold of a barra engine/trans loom and ecu