Thom

BTW, I think the Zetec is an excellent idea, especially dressed up as a BDA

Most lpg systems start on petrol and then flick over to LPG when the engine has run for a few seconds, if its playing up when starting chances are its the fuel system playing up, one was to diagnose is to have someone try to start it while spraying some brake clean/carb cleaner down the throttle body, if is starts and runs easily then switches to lpg you know you have a problem with something in you fuel system, if it doesn't then it could be spark related

Most lpg systems start on petrol and then flick over to LPG when the engine has run for a few seconds, if its playing up when starting chances are its the fuel system playing up, one was to diagnose is to have someone try to start it while spraying some brake clean/carb cleaner down the throttle body, if is starts and runs easily then switches to lpg you know you have a problem with something in you fuel system, if it doesn't then it could be spark related

Most lpg systems start on petrol and then flick over to LPG when the engine has run for a few seconds, if its playing up when starting chances are its the fuel system playing up, one was to diagnose is to have someone try to start it while spraying some brake clean/carb cleaner down the throttle body, if is starts and runs easily then switches to lpg you know you have a problem with something in you fuel system, if it doesn't then it could be spark related

just wanted to see if i could right click "open in new tab" then  "copy image address" and paste here.. looks like it
cool photos, is that a tacho/clock  that micronta thing

 

Would be waaay easier with the dizzy out, but you can do it with it in. Hard to get to the valley "walls", you'll have the oil sender at the back as well. 
Much easier to pull the dizzy out, (don't turn the crank, it'll pop straight back in) remove the thermostat housing.  Heaps easier to clean all the old gasket goo off........

It might fit in a Falcon engine bay if you use a slim radiator or move it in front of the support panel. Only one way to know I guess... There was a Maverick (not the 4x4) in the States getting around with one of these in it, and they share the same kind of front end as Falcon/Mustang. It was a pretty potent drag car, was turbo too. Stock internals except for valve springs. Not even rebuilt after 110k miles, runs 25 psi and does high 10s all day 
 
 
And here's another Mav with that motor, but this time atmo with triple Webers and much more done internally. "The Mad Frenchman"
 

 
 
 
 

I believe 390 FE pistons are feasible with an overbore and raise comp height to a reasonable amount, also 240 heads have smaller chambers so are a good boost for compression on a 300. Biggest bottleneck for performance is the heads. They can't be ported much and valve size is limited by their placement and chamber shape. Hence the clevo and LS Frankenstein combos that pop up occasionally.

I dunno where you find these oddball engines Chestnut but kudos to you for having that ability.

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They are alot bigger (taller and longer) than a xflow or pre xflow with no interchangeable parts with the other 6 cylinders, yes they do use a v8 bellhousing

They are alot bigger (taller and longer) than a xflow or pre xflow with no interchangeable parts with the other 6 cylinders, yes they do use a v8 bellhousing

With bordem set in and nothing to do i have found both a 240 and 300 ford canadian f truck engines,just something different from the usual v8 s and crossys,with just a bit of research the only apparent differance between them is the crank n rods ,head is the same ,and all bolt ons except carby was a tad smaller but in saying that,the guy has a complete 240 and a 300 in pieces so i figure cause its gunna get a strip down anyway lets just chux the 300 crank n rods in it with new go fast 😂bits from america,like the offy 4 barrel intake and juicy billet dizzy,i think thom once told me the 300 has a small block v8 bellhousing pattern ?
 

It has a Windsor style timing cover

The 300 was a great truck engine, I know one my dads mates pulled a tired 300 out of his f150 and put in a fresh 351 with a tow cam in it, he was that disappointed in it he sold the truck after that

The 300 was a great truck engine, I know one my dads mates pulled a tired 300 out of his f150 and put in a fresh 351 with a tow cam in it, he was that disappointed in it he sold the truck after that

Sorry I should have specified .050inches not mm

Yeah and I've had her for 10 years now.
Hehe.
Did the pics work? Don't for me.

I misread what you said Thom, you said over 0.050 would require machining.
So I guess 0.50 is machine shop time then.
I always get confused on the measurents, so the pistons are 20 thou of an inch over or 0.50mm, correct?

I see what your saying now Gerg.
Excuse my stupid.


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Before you got your ute the prev owner must have given it a hard time when cold, from what I've seen thats the best way to kill rings in a 4.0

That's what I was thinking Thom.
Be a nice tight fit anyway at 0.50.... take up some of that 300,000km wear....
Hehe.
This was the sticker on the back of the block, head had never been off and shows all bores as Standard, no over sizes.

Head gasket was just about welded to the block after all those kilometers. Lol
Bores weren't bad at all..


So I'm hopeful of a nice hone and new bearings and she'll be apples.


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G'day mate, sweet machine you have there.

For starters, it looks like you've got bigger diameter wheels, so lower profile rubber will need less neg camber than the traditional wheel/tyre combo needs (less sidewall deflection).

So your mate's suggestion of 3 degrees might be good for his setup, but your low profile rubber plus the Shelby drop will actually increase neg camber as more compression comes on, so less static camber is needed. This is the whole point of the mod... So you don't need to dial in so much camber at static height to compensate for poor factory geometry.

Falcon/Mustang/Fairlane geometry is designed to provide a POSITIVE camber curve from factory, inducing "safe" understeer for your average mum and dad driver. The Shelby drop inverts this to a negative camber curve. Has your mate's car had the Shelby drop done?

The bigger wheel diameter will also make the car sit higher than your mate's. Going to a smaller rolling diameter will have it all sitting lower before you even touch the suspension.

I also did the Shelby drop, and it has transformed the car. Mine definitely isn't a track car though (XE wagon V8). A 1" drop is as far as you'd go on the street, but 1.5" or even 2" is not unheard of on race cars. This much of a drop requires wedged spacers under the ball joint mount face, to stop the joint from reaching its limits of articulation and binding/breaking off.

In the photo, despite his car being lower, it actually looks like he's got a similar amount of body roll to yours, despite stiffer springs. Maybe he runs less bar? 28mm on yours is pretty damn stiff. That's easily 4 times as stiff as a factory 6-cyl.

If you're running more swaybar than you have spring, it will turn in nice but will induce more understeer the more lock you wind on. It's really important to match rollbar stiffness with spring rate, and as a guide, you could start from factory settings and increase each as a percentage.

Just keep in mind, as you increase roll bar diameter, the stiffness increases to the power of 4 to that. I just found an online calculator and going from 22 to 28mm tripled the stiffness! Maybe you could go back to a stock one and see how it goes? You might be getting some mid-corner plough-steer with too much bar on there.

King lows aren't really that low. They're probably 1.5" lower than stock (dunno what the rates are). 1" Shelby drop gives 0.5" body drop, so altogether you have 2" based on my assumption about the King lows. If you have a bigger rolling diameter, then you've gone back up a bit from there.

Some guys on here have cut and shut their front bump stop plates to raise the bump stop mounting point, increasing the effective suspension travel. If you go lower, you might have to resort to this. There's one bloke on here who is doing this right now (search recent posts to see).

If it's a track car, you could try cutting a coil or two off to easily and cheaply lower it and increase the spring rate. The rate will increase by the amount, percentage-wise, of how much free length you end up chopping off.

The rear sounds pretty sorted, are you running a swaybar there too? That will make it more tailey especially when putting power on. Whether or not you have one depends on your driving style. I have one and would like to put it on mine.

Never underestimate a sorted leaf setup... They have the right kind of lateral deflection that provides a very controlled and predictable rear-steer effect, which can be very handy at getting the big girl through the tight turns. Just ask Dicky Johnson... He always talked of his XD as being a fabulously balanced racecar. Never go to a Watts link setup... It's a step backwards.

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Hey Jack, 0.2 mm is 0.008", so if you have less than 8 thou wear in the bore (and hopefully it's worn evenly and not barreled or tapered) then 0.2mm would file down to where you need it, albeit with some extra ring tension, but that's with old pistons.
 
New 0.2 pistons will require some serious honing, not easily done with home garage tools in an accurate way. A shop hone generally takes off the last few thou after the borer has cut the bulk of the meat off.
 
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Anything more than .050 will most likely require a re bore

As far as the bore goes, I've never seen one that needed to be bored but it would be a good idea to measure it before buying rings/and or pistons ou may find rather than getting oversize rings getting a set of file fits will get you where you need to be, plastigauging the crank with the stock bearings and measuring the bearing shells compared to stock specifications will give you a good idea where you are at but I'd be surprised if it needed machine work giving the cars maintenance history



The std volume pump is more than adequate for even most extreme builds, considering its a street engine and won't see constant racing conditions the std bearings will be adequate as well if you can find them ef to au have restrictors in the oil galleries to reduce the the amount of oil in the head and keep the bottom end properly lubricated, they just need the oil galleries drilled out to suit them

The pistons were basically the same for e series au has a smaller dish but a longer rod, im unsure if you can use them in an e series engine you'd have to check if the skirts clear e series counterweights

Unless you are thinking of boost, (a decent amount at that) the stock xg bottom end will be fine, most e series bottom ends are the same other than el hybrid have au size mains and the au long rod and ea has slightly beefier rods than other e series

Starter motor ,? 
try unbolting it and winding over by hand