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Holley 600

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Morning guys, im planning to buy a 600 holley in the nxt few days i already bought a brand new adaptor plate for the 302c in my FD now im assuming that i go for the carb that has electric choke or auto choke?, i will be buying it brand new from hume performance or similar off ebay.

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Yeah mate, that'll work. You can buy a manual choke, but obviously FC/FD didnt have a choke cable. Nothing stopping you mounting one under the dash. It's reasonably warm in SA, so I don't even run a choke, just annoy the neighbours warming the old girl up.  😁

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I'd look towards the Quickfuel range for better range of tuning options, I've got a QFT Slayer 600 Vac sec VSF on my xflow,

over the Holley has changeable air bleeds, rear jets & billet rear mettering plate, Vac sec progression is adjustable buy a screw, compared to likes of the 1850 of holley

I think Holley also shared Quickfuels features the Brawler range of carbs.

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Morning guys, im planning to buy a 600 holley in the nxt few days i already bought a brand new adaptor plate for the 302c in my FD now im assuming that i go for the carb that has electric choke or auto choke?, i will be buying it brand new from hume performance or similar off ebay.


Morning guys, im planning to buy a 600 holley in the nxt few days i already bought a brand new adaptor plate for the 302c in my FD now im assuming that i go for the carb that has electric choke or auto choke?, i will be buying it brand new from hume performance or similar off ebay.


Manual choke will need a cable mounted (not that easy) and somewhere under the dash to mount the knob. I drilled a hole in the firewall next to the clutch master and ran the cable through to one of the clip holes on the knee panel under the steering wheel. It worked well until I needed to take that panel off, which required removing the cable.

Do they offer a manual 600 or are you going to convert an electric one?

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Yeah its a manual choke, all good ill just feather the throttle abit on cold starts til she warms up, thats what im doing now with the TQ anyway, the auto choke stopped working ages ago meh.

Auto choke is piss-easy to hook up. Just tee off the + wire on the dizzy, feed it to the + terminal on the choke housing. It earths through the loop wire back onto itself.

 

You adjust the amount of choke by loosening the 3x screws around the choke housing, and rotating left or right to put more or less load on the clock spring inside. There is a pointer and scale for reference on the housings.

 

Adjusting the choke does two things:

 

1. Shortens or lengthens the time that the choke (and idle-up) is on.

 

2. Adjusts the amount that the choke plate is closed at the start of the choke cycle (enrichment).

 

The clock spring inside is bi-metallic, so whenever there is power to it, there is a certain amount of time from closed to open depending on what angle you have adjusted the housing to.

 

I think here in Oz (unless it's frosty outside), you can get away with the minimal setting. The idle-up is a bit of a shit to adjust, I think you either need to pull the carby back off to adjust the screw that rides on the step-up cam, or get a ridiculously short screwdriver under there.

 

In my opinion, the idle-up function is more important than the choke flap itself.

 

I think it's very beneficial to have the choke hooked up. You won't need to have the idle mixture so rich to keep it alive when cold, you can actually make that nice and lean and crisp but still have it drive properly when cold.

 

Of course, this is just general info for all out there who baulk at this kind of stuff. I know yours is manual, but that is also worthwhile hooking up in my opinion, for the exact same reasons stated above.

 

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1 hour ago, Outback Jack said:

Mmmmm.....Shiny.
Looking good Free!

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Thanks Jack, im not sure at the moment if i need to buy extras like the throttle bracket & a bracket for the auto kickdown rod but ill find after i put it on👍

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I think Chryslers are the ones that have trouble adapting kickdowns, etc but time will tell. I just hate how Aussie Fords need the acc cable to do a lap around the engine bay before getting to where they need to be.

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I think i remember last time i had a holley on a cleveland (14 yrs ago) it went around the back of the carb the accelerator cable that is.
Yeah I made a contraption that eliminated that and had the cable just go through 90 degrees, then across the engine (like on a 6-cylinder), converted pull to push and went into the front of the carby via a linkage and 2 small rose joints. The dyno guy was quite impressed, asked who made it and I said... Lol I did44ff129ebd0abb399fc9e2e4fd944585.jpg

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Greg did you buy a kickdown spring perch kit when you bought your holley?, seems like its need for the kickdown
I never buy anything

But seriously, I just made the whole thing at work as a foreign order. The linkage just attaches to a 6mm bolt with nuts either side, the rose joint just slips into the end of it with another nut.

The assembly uses the 2 front manifold bolts to mount to. I gather that you could do a similar thing but come in from the back, using the rear 2 bolts.

Mine's a manual, so no need for all that kickdown nonsense

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Yeah i remembered after i posted that you made your own. I bought the bracket kit part no. 20-91 should be in the post soon.

Is this the phenolic base plate/spacer? & im guessing it needs to come off to fit the holley adaptor plate & carb.1e1dfb83d965d2c9d1e1d786d7f68a69.jpg

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New adaptor plate 6e0e87cb2a70bd4b94e2adfcb1db4d50.jpg

 

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If you have your exhaust crossover plugged, then you can launch that metal plate, but even at that, it's thin and doesn't contribute to bonnet clearance issues like a spacer would. So I would just keep it.

 

Next upgrade for your engine, in my opinion, should be either an open plenum factory manifold or go to an Edelbrock performer at least. Your manifold has the restrictive funnels in the secondaries that I had my brother machine out on mine. Even the XC 4-hole type would be better than that one. I don't know 100%, but I believe that design was for 302s to try and boost midrange torque when top end was very poor by that stage (139kW... C'mon!)

 

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