motoSycho

You may be interested in this then

https://www.rodshop.com.au/air-conditioning-delete-kit-barra-xr6-engines

Definitely, get the pedal and the plug with as much wiring as you can

Pretty much all the engine wiring except the alternator and starter connects to the ECU with two big plugs. Once undone all the wiring comes with the engine.

The ECU is riveted to the shock tower and is a giant pain to drill out. Then you'll want to cut the wires from the ECU as far back near the firewall as possible.

Pretty sure anything from EA onwards will bolt up@Thom ?

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Build a decent fuel system for your car/engine conversion.
One does not just stick a SOHC or BARRA into the hole and 
hope for the best. There is more to it than that. 
(do a BARRA conversion) 
Start reading what others have done with fuel systems and 
accelerator pedals. Then dummy up your design before  going to town
on the conversion. Gotta make that Throttle body work.
Research Research Research = Good job. 

Just ran in.

BF is probably the pick of them for swapping into an earlier Falcon. FG onwards get a bit complicated with the rear sump & dipstick etc.

I'd pull the sump and timing cover, clean them and reseal them. They basically leap from new around there, so 250,000kms wouldn't help that. Gives you a good chance to see the inside of the engine too.

Good time to paint the rusty block too

If you've got a spare rear main seal from a late xflow it'll fit the Barra. Same goes for the crank bearings.

My dad's was an early build BA, his engine was pretty tired at 200k, I reckon valve seals were gone and that's why it was a little smokey on startup, etc. Maybe they sorted minor build issues later on? I dunno, he's not exactly easy on his gear.

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Yeah, pretty much sold on the idea of putting a Barra in her. To help fund it, I have a mountain of 250 Crossflow motors and parts I can sell off.
 
You guys are enablers,,,, you know that right? 😋

Oh absolutely. The Barra transformed my Cruiser, and that still weighs 2.5t.

But the other big advantage to the Barra, is you can tune the stock ECU.
Pretty sure to do pretty much anything to EEC-IV or V, you need to chip them at minimum.

Yep, it would be the smart thing to do.
And let's face it, a stock N/A Barra is going to feel like a race car motor in my old ute 😆
 

be much more support for the barra too i'd expect. 
newest AU is 20yrs old nearly

Barras are easy to swap and quite easy to run on the factory ECUs if you went that way.

AU VCT was very primitive I think, most 4.0 swaps don't usually worry about the VCT.

gerg beat me to it lol..  

just remember, Thoms XH ute got 178 RWKW from efi that was all factory bits mixed and matched. (not sure on tune without reading it all again)
 
 
"a really nice Combo (what some of you will remember I had in my xh) is Au egas short motor, Ef xr6 head, ea cam, El intake with a set of extractors and a tune made 178 rwkw for less than $600<br /><br />"
 
 
 
 

Thom's basic formula for a gun OHC donk using factory parts is AU bottom end, EF head and EA cam. In NSW, it will need engineering, all emissions gear and the ECU that goes with an AU engine (or whatever block is used). It shouldn't be too hard if factory parts like mounts, crossmember, etc can be used.

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Barra, triple 45mm dcoe Weber's (recarb Qld) order on eBay. Then no EFI.
Can put it on all the Crossy, 4L sohc, Barra.
Trust me....save yourself the EFI nightmare and make the car fun.

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Got mate in Tamworth that has an AU XR6 VCT motor that he is running a carby on. He was just running me through all the bits and pieces needed.

Tuff Mounts do a sway bar that allows them to fit now. and mounts

https://www.tuffmounts.com.au/product/conversion-kits/tuff-mounts-barra-conversion-kit-into-xa-xf-ford-falcon/
 

Gday, the n/a barra swap is straight forward, i converted my XE sedan in a weekend during 2019 (barra, t5 with au bellhousing, ebay brought pre made 6 wire to hookup loom and unlocked computer)....did have some troubles with the computer settings which were mostly rectified by a mobile tuning guy afterwards (fault on behalf of the original guy who unlocked), still need to get the temp gauge and handbrake working but its great to drive. 
 
  I recently did the AU VCT swap into my xh, and previously done AU VCT into my EF, both again straight forward, aside from the sump mods required, both have J3 tuning chips and are smooth as, but should have just done barra.  the AU VCT engines getting harder to find in good condition and therefore are anywhere from 400-1000...i think my barra conversion owes me 2k all up...
 
 
 
 

Thom has a thread on it, if you can't find it maybe one of the mods can post a link, pweeeeease...

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Thanks gents, I have the King Springs Lows in the front. I'll pick up a set of the Ultima shocks and throw them in.

Thanks gents, I have the King Springs Lows in the front. I'll pick up a set of the Ultima shocks and throw them in.

yes i have used ultimas in all my cars and they are ok,after putting low springs in xe's for years i only now use std or sports height cause the others are just too dam low especily for v8s,best height is the esp ride height.

yeah check your bump stop clearance first. if it's so low(SSL) then you won't have any suspension travel. 
SL are barely an inch, most people cut the bump stops a bit(half an inch/whole inch off) to gain some travel .
 
those ULTIMAS have had good reviews from members here who've used them, i haven't used them, but they'd be at minimum twice as good as Monroe GTs
 
i've only had Pedders Big bore sports ryder i think, they are OK at controlling super lows,  but they better handle LOWs  (i won't use SL springs if i want to drive the car, they bump steer also due to being low, let alone bottoming out from low suspension travel and needing an expensive shock) 
 

Thanks man, there is a thread here on the rest of my build as well: http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/8254-rods-rusty-rat-ute/

You'll have to block one of the hose outlets from the head, and run the other one to the heater core, and then one from the water pump to heater.
Heater tap should be in hose from head, and that should go to the centre most heater pipe according to the workshop manual.
 
These are the diagrams from the Ford workshop manual, I've included both carby and EFI because really you're running the EFI style heater hose now