hendrixhc

I have a full list of every part that went on my turbo crossflow on the build so I can post the invoice photos if that may help (fully installed a professional (not me)
Very comprehensive list
Let me know, about 10 pages

I found this article on the Spoolinboost page and thought it might be worth copying to preserve for for use
 
Making the stock BTR falcon auto live with boost and increased power.
 
 
The Btr Auto fitted to ea-au is a much under rated box. With a few basic mods they are happy holding over 300rwkw. We have even put down 430rwkw with an internally stock ef trans. The two biggest killers are heat and slipping which causes more heat, keep these two things in check and you will have a happy trans.
 
For fluid temperature control run a big trans cooler with lots of airflow to it. The stock radiator trans cooler just dosnt cut it. Frequent oil changes are also a good idea, especially after dyno work as the oil gets very hot.
 
The biggest issue is slipping on gear changes, this will kill a good trans quickly. The factory trans tune gives soft shifts to enhance comfort. As soon as more power is put through the car the auto will slip noticeably on changes until it gets to the point of hitting the rev limiter before shifts occur. Again this is caused from the factory tune commanding low trans pressures for a gentle shift. Even 200rwkw will bounce off the limiter 2-3 times before shifting. This is due to slippage between the change. You can modify the signal to s5 solonoid via J3 tuning or common resistor shift kit setup. This will help marginally but is still no were near enough line pressure in our opinion. The next option is to delete s3/s4 solonoids which gives full line pressure all the time and is the only way to make them hold decent power.
 
Firstly this is not our idea full credit goes to Turbotrana on the ford forums. We have been doing this mod for 4 years with good results. Shifts are always crisp and instant, the downside being that driving around normally the shifts are a bit rough but once you learn how to drive it the shifts are acceptable and well worth it. We havnt tried this but it may be possible to use a 5 pin relay to trigger via boost switch so full line pressure is only used under full throttle.
 
To set it up all you need to do is cut the signal wires going to s3 and s4 and wire them to dummy solnoids or resistors so the ecu dosnt go into limp home mode and stick in 3rd. It basically thinks its still controlling the solonoids in the gearbox but its just controlling the ones wired to the outside of it. The solonoids in the trans are left in untouched. On an ef the wires are the yellow wire with green stripe and pink wire with yellow stripe and brown dots. Both wires are next to each other at the bottom of the round plug on the side of the trans. They can be reconnected at any time to go back to the factory tune peramiters. Sorry for the poor quality photos.
 
 

I found this article on the Spoolinboost page and thought it might be worth copying to preserve for for use
 
Making the stock BTR falcon auto live with boost and increased power.
 
 
The Btr Auto fitted to ea-au is a much under rated box. With a few basic mods they are happy holding over 300rwkw. We have even put down 430rwkw with an internally stock ef trans. The two biggest killers are heat and slipping which causes more heat, keep these two things in check and you will have a happy trans.
 
For fluid temperature control run a big trans cooler with lots of airflow to it. The stock radiator trans cooler just dosnt cut it. Frequent oil changes are also a good idea, especially after dyno work as the oil gets very hot.
 
The biggest issue is slipping on gear changes, this will kill a good trans quickly. The factory trans tune gives soft shifts to enhance comfort. As soon as more power is put through the car the auto will slip noticeably on changes until it gets to the point of hitting the rev limiter before shifts occur. Again this is caused from the factory tune commanding low trans pressures for a gentle shift. Even 200rwkw will bounce off the limiter 2-3 times before shifting. This is due to slippage between the change. You can modify the signal to s5 solonoid via J3 tuning or common resistor shift kit setup. This will help marginally but is still no were near enough line pressure in our opinion. The next option is to delete s3/s4 solonoids which gives full line pressure all the time and is the only way to make them hold decent power.
 
Firstly this is not our idea full credit goes to Turbotrana on the ford forums. We have been doing this mod for 4 years with good results. Shifts are always crisp and instant, the downside being that driving around normally the shifts are a bit rough but once you learn how to drive it the shifts are acceptable and well worth it. We havnt tried this but it may be possible to use a 5 pin relay to trigger via boost switch so full line pressure is only used under full throttle.
 
To set it up all you need to do is cut the signal wires going to s3 and s4 and wire them to dummy solnoids or resistors so the ecu dosnt go into limp home mode and stick in 3rd. It basically thinks its still controlling the solonoids in the gearbox but its just controlling the ones wired to the outside of it. The solonoids in the trans are left in untouched. On an ef the wires are the yellow wire with green stripe and pink wire with yellow stripe and brown dots. Both wires are next to each other at the bottom of the round plug on the side of the trans. They can be reconnected at any time to go back to the factory tune peramiters. Sorry for the poor quality photos.
 
 

I found this article on the Spoolinboost page and thought it might be worth copying to preserve for for use
 
Making the stock BTR falcon auto live with boost and increased power.
 
 
The Btr Auto fitted to ea-au is a much under rated box. With a few basic mods they are happy holding over 300rwkw. We have even put down 430rwkw with an internally stock ef trans. The two biggest killers are heat and slipping which causes more heat, keep these two things in check and you will have a happy trans.
 
For fluid temperature control run a big trans cooler with lots of airflow to it. The stock radiator trans cooler just dosnt cut it. Frequent oil changes are also a good idea, especially after dyno work as the oil gets very hot.
 
The biggest issue is slipping on gear changes, this will kill a good trans quickly. The factory trans tune gives soft shifts to enhance comfort. As soon as more power is put through the car the auto will slip noticeably on changes until it gets to the point of hitting the rev limiter before shifts occur. Again this is caused from the factory tune commanding low trans pressures for a gentle shift. Even 200rwkw will bounce off the limiter 2-3 times before shifting. This is due to slippage between the change. You can modify the signal to s5 solonoid via J3 tuning or common resistor shift kit setup. This will help marginally but is still no were near enough line pressure in our opinion. The next option is to delete s3/s4 solonoids which gives full line pressure all the time and is the only way to make them hold decent power.
 
Firstly this is not our idea full credit goes to Turbotrana on the ford forums. We have been doing this mod for 4 years with good results. Shifts are always crisp and instant, the downside being that driving around normally the shifts are a bit rough but once you learn how to drive it the shifts are acceptable and well worth it. We havnt tried this but it may be possible to use a 5 pin relay to trigger via boost switch so full line pressure is only used under full throttle.
 
To set it up all you need to do is cut the signal wires going to s3 and s4 and wire them to dummy solnoids or resistors so the ecu dosnt go into limp home mode and stick in 3rd. It basically thinks its still controlling the solonoids in the gearbox but its just controlling the ones wired to the outside of it. The solonoids in the trans are left in untouched. On an ef the wires are the yellow wire with green stripe and pink wire with yellow stripe and brown dots. Both wires are next to each other at the bottom of the round plug on the side of the trans. They can be reconnected at any time to go back to the factory tune peramiters. Sorry for the poor quality photos.
 
 

Ive been toying around with the idea of chucking a snail on the ute cause basically its slow as fuck and well it would be a lot more fun to drive.
 
Ive sourced an EL computer to suit the engine as it allows for better tuning with a J3 chip.
 
Im also in the process of getting an AU engine cause ive read the bottom ends are better and it means i can build up the engine while keeping the ute on the road,
 
Now im not interested in a high budget build but i am not likely to do it on the cheap either. Only thing is i have no idea what way to go with a parts list so i asked my learned colleagues to add some advice here to point me in the right direction.
 
I do know there will be some braided line, shiny allloy intercooler piping and the odd aeroflow fitting but other than that who knows - all a learning curve.
 
 

I recon i could weld up the manifold ok.
 
Something like this would work!
 

I recon i could weld up the manifold ok.
 
Something like this would work!
 

I recon i could weld up the manifold ok.
 
Something like this would work!
 

You mean a Clevo - yeah got 2 of those already!

I recon i could weld up the manifold ok.
 
Something like this would work!
 

I recon i could weld up the manifold ok.
 
Something like this would work!
 

For a street car a log manifold is fine, equal length manifolds have their place, but in this case not needed . Remember the factory xr6t cast manifold is a log and can support over 400rwkw. If you can weld half decent you'll be fine. You can get the steam pipe bits from Blackwoods or a steel supplier, you should be able to buy a laser cut header flange from an exhaust shop.

You mean a Clevo - yeah got 2 of those already!

Thanks XPT. plenty of advice there.
 
I was thinking of making my own exhaust manifold. I have tracked all the bits down on ebay already!
 
Was just tossing up ( not off) whether or not i could it it. Wast sure if i needed to have all 6 runners of equal length.

Buy a header flange, a T3 flange(depending on turbo choice), some sched 40 1-1/2" steam pipe bends, 4 tees and about half a metre of straight pipe, make yourself a log manifold with a Mig.You should be able to do the manifold for about $150. I'm happy to run you through it, it's a piece of piss.
 
A good second hand Garrett gt3582r from an xr6T, sized perfectly with it's 1.06 ar turbine housing and it's internal wastegate for simplicity.
Second option would be a Holset HX40 which are available with an internal wastegate, if you have to plumb in an external wastegate it's not hard to do. There are many options for turbos, you can probably go a cheap Chinese copy and be fine your wallet is the limit.
 
Some Bosch green 42lb (440cc) injectors will do the job easily, or you could get a set from the wreckers out of an L67 supercharged V6 Dunnydore (36lb) and have them serviced. The stock fuel pressure reg should be fine, Walbro 255lph in tank pump will be fine.
You should get a pile of 3" mild steel exhaust tube mandrel bends for both the exhaust and intercooler piping and a 500mm length of 3" silicone hose for joining your intercooler pipe.
With the engine out and pulled down you should drill & tap your sump for the turbo oil return above the oil level obviously. I'd go for -10 AN minimum for oil drain. You can tee off the turbo oil feed from the oil pressure switch. If going with a water cooled turbo which the gt3582 is you can run it from before the heater tap and back into the heater return.
A cheap electronic boost controller would also be worthwhile. If going the btr auto I'd do the "shift kit" mod to firm up the shifts and run a decent oil cooler. Engine management is up to your wallet, a J3 chip and 10PSI would be a lot of fun, it just limits you if you get a bit greedy later on.
 
That's the most of it I think

First thing...if you have ball's ? Build a man's engine...if not,put a turbo on it.
 
 
Just playing. Exciting news bro,not just a stocko work ute all the sudden and something not seen all that often. Good luck cuzzy,I'll be subscribing.   

Mate of mine has one of the cheapy kits with the up pipe set up on an el xr6. Made 300rwhp with the supplied generic tune without the inter cooler hooked up yet and only low boost. Went to the drags and ran a 13 flat at 112mph on way to skinny street rubber to get any form of traction. Not a bad effort I thought for a thrown together non intercooled kit that cost him about 3 grand that hasn't had a proper tune yet. Oh and a 50 shot of NOS to help it off the line which probably hindered it come to think of it traction wise. He's intercooling it shortly and turning up the boost once it had some dyno time to sort it out.

Ive been toying around with the idea of chucking a snail on the ute cause basically its slow as fuck and well it would be a lot more fun to drive.
 
Ive sourced an EL computer to suit the engine as it allows for better tuning with a J3 chip.
 
Im also in the process of getting an AU engine cause ive read the bottom ends are better and it means i can build up the engine while keeping the ute on the road,
 
Now im not interested in a high budget build but i am not likely to do it on the cheap either. Only thing is i have no idea what way to go with a parts list so i asked my learned colleagues to add some advice here to point me in the right direction.
 
I do know there will be some braided line, shiny allloy intercooler piping and the odd aeroflow fitting but other than that who knows - all a learning curve.
 
 

Does 2k in a can contain isocyanites? Or is it safe to use at home?

Haven't heard about fg's but it's cheap pice of mind.
 
And it's polished so is sexy.

Would love to take advantage of the sale! If i get the job on Wednesday i just might!

Cat wont line up. Youll need to cjop and add flanges. I went aftermarket parts was cheap and can be polished later!

Hey Ando, it's all looking good. Just one little thing to watch out for when you're tig welding. See the dimple on the finishing points of the welds? It looks like they might be sealed, sometimes you can get the tiniest little pin hole in these and they can leak. If using a high frequency trigger start tig they usually have a ramp down function to gradually lower the amps as you finish the weld back to the surface to cool it slower and avoid pin holes. Or if you only have a low frequency, scratch start machine you finish the weld by dragging the arc off to the side quickly which doesn't look as nice but it does stop pin holes. Being the thorough kind of guy you are, I'm sure you you'll give it all a leak test before installing. Not trying to be a nit picking smart arse either mate.

I have the odd aeroflow part in my cars and the only thing that has sucked so far is the thermostat housing o ring was to big for the groove. had to get another one from sprints.

I have the odd aeroflow part in my cars and the only thing that has sucked so far is the thermostat housing o ring was to big for the groove. had to get another one from sprints.