deankxf

looks good, 
i've seen some with the internals rusted completely way

Cheers all, wondered if the 4 small lines were something to do with emissions / fuel vapour. Will block those off.

I’ve cleaned up the EFI tank as best I can and put a Walbro 255lph pump in there…

Before:



After:





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The 4 small hoses are part of the Emissions recovery system. Early XA/XB sedans, coupes etc didn't have them, late XB and the XC did. I've plugged mine of in the XA. 
Looks like a fuel return line next to the filler hose.?? 

thanks @deankxf will go for that one!

this is marked as used, but it looks pretty good in the packet, 
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/235559411647?itmmeta=01HXPAC30PDXG0VH3944PKT6PY&hash=item36d86f5fbf:g:phEAAOSwVKBmPzj~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LaeB87bETlBzaMvWuhdX254PraVwnCPF4iKvKDUoMLQda40sL3kSGdqiynumLBPmyV6G7IsXo5P3W8nnnXOXbIviS%2Bs6EJ49OeXAdGuigfNn5LIvcYPBTmXC3wrr8Fz2kyYDkjDyGkvhShzx9KFtG75wBLdQDA2vAUemgvpPc7fsPG%2BtQM%2Br9rrc2k18HWzTkkPLu0rp6A%2Bt5gHd7HGQLlXHp8DdtIRy9OjjmFECfPMEB7gxFHQpHiEcf%2BBu2a87%2FRj4xoGIRMhLFUcBD2UqzAcbIoamBIgF5jdQuQmSGLPa1u9VEUFgxOUB87HEDLWDg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7awsMrtYw

Flexible Drive Agencies, do throttle cables and such.
I believe they can also make custom ones to spec?

Good news and bad news. The bad news is that the back plastic bit of the solenoid has a huge crack going all the way through. The good news is that all the problems were caused by a burnt washer connecting the feed cable. A bit of emry tape and a new washer later shes spinning over just fine. Now to fix the other million issues with this car

This is the Xg starter that I gave a freshen up, was difficult to find brushes, but got some eventually...
I had a spare, so I haven't fitted this back in yet...
My Xf big starter has to be forced in because of extractor clearance, so the smaller ones are better in that respect😎

 

 

yeah AU one fits, 
the good thing about them is they are lighter, and smaller(further from the heat of the exhaust) 
they don't seem to last 20yrs like the old ones though

i prefer the fat early starter (when rebuilt) but the new later starters are cheap  (under $100 online)  and you can try a used one for under $50 including postage (here's the cheapest i just found on ebay in 3 seconds) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251480920729?itmmeta=01HXC1MGTXJ8SG7FZJJZ5GDQRS&hash=item3a8d6e5299:g:GiIAAOxyCGNTKmMZ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4M0kjadIXOgEN4h6ffsWcKpoJyVTJCT%2Fn5ZmXcXX5WArhAdJUdLl95lMbyKv4MMb5eCF2DEZ2Z4Ib3F7rV3HFl28eQK0HidM0bznO91BnH6fLt8P%2FqQF8lyzLPDUOYpkKdjwhA%2B%2F7WUmcMDpalldWbTCx7ITAlskoAlK5HL149EoGIweal03xhHiL6LEQ0dqeJNXsL5txlBWSBDCD2%2FkjcTsAlvdJeSZa78G7WnKxx3iIMI4jRI9YVpQKWzGW%2FMl19Fws2OVrAP6JhCmHuyHz1Zn%2FQtE8u2CIrRfxURM3Q%2B5|tkp%3ABk9SR8SN0oHrYw
 
if you hot wire the trigger post on the starter and it's same , i'd just get another starter. (after making sure the earths on the block/battery and other connections are all clean and tight and wiggled the starter relay. 
 
 

mine didn't respond to starter fluid, or anything sprayed around the manifold(was blown in an inaccessible spot above the dissy(behind p/s pump)
 
i'd prefer 20W50 or even 25W50 in old wornout things, 
the other thing that is worth checking is if it's bent a pushrod (they are made of cheese) but if it runs ok at times i'd 99% rule that out. 
 
the mechanic i went to said it was probably a wiped cam lobe (common ish back in the day also) or a wiped out lifter, but it's compression was too high for that. 

i found it after it blew a head gasket  at 5 and 6 and pulled the head off with everything still on it. 

 

 

I too have had a few shocks I'd prefer to forget!!

i did it on an MSD dissy on a valiant 265 hemi and thought i was going to die.. 
it's dangerous without plastic tongs. 
 
check some others, 90 is very low, it's possibly blown headgasket between the 2.
My lowest good running crossflow was 120psi on all, and my best standard one was 180psi.  
i had a crossflow run crap at idle (5cyls) but had good compression, and this was due to a blown intake gasket on one port. (possibly from a backfire)
 
if the car's been sitting ages, the valves can get a layer of rust on them or stick open a bit in the guides etc.. i'd be tempted to just run it longer if it's not losing coolant or mixing oil/coolant
running rough isn't a rwc issue most of the time (unless it stalls or smokes) 

Oh boy...
I have now just read in my XF manual something I missed previously, which contradicts my perceived understanding of how the 2 stage idle switch functions...
 

 
And now after pulling the .70 jet out (looked non removable by eye) I now see a .55 jet that is pushed by spring pressure into the inside of the .70 jet, therefore overriding it until vacuum pulls it away allowing it to become a .70 fuel flow for the time determined by the "Thermo Temp Switch" which is suggested in the above info...
 

 

I found that and more...but the freight seemed a little excessive😬

 
 
Tried part number in weberperformance search, but nothing, they have plenty of jets but no holders...

So I have mostly disassembled the carb and found the diaphragms a bit hard compared to new I assume.
The power valve diaphragm is the worst and only one with the black surface disintegrating...

 

 

yep, as Thom said. 

The XF T5 cross member may even have the center hole already in it, i have seen them many times drilled for both. 
 
like this one (image from @fotz thread recently, on the left not circled)

what's in it now?
single rail 4 speed?  if so, is it unleaded or leaded (clutch cable on driver side is leaded)
 
if it's unleaded single rail, the clutch cable is same as the XF T5 otherwise you'll need one. 
 
cross member or modify the original if you can't find one (actually aftermarket are making them)  pic below of mine i modified..
 
gear stick and knob are different to the single rail also (sounds obvious, but i had to find one back in the day due to buying a gearbox only)

T5 crossflow bell housing is available aftermarket also in Alloy, but only as a leaded clutch from memory or hydraulic which makes it tight for exhaust on the cable side  with a CAT (I used a CRS one) or you can drill the single rail to suit (there's a thread here, but on your car you'd appreciate the correct parts used, so an XF T5 bell housing for a crossflow obviously)


 
 

I should say that i rebuild the master cylinder. The o-ring that i used came in the rebuild kit. But i don’t believe its right. 
 
and given i replaced the booster, i figure ill just replace the master cylinder with a brand new unit. 

If you xf already has a t5 it's almost a straight swap, the trans mount is different on e series, ,e series has a single bolt trans mount, all you have to do is drill you crossmember for the e series mount and swap your speedo transducer, the rest its the same

The XF is a manual, T5, I was hoping to just put my XF BELL HOUSING on to the E SERIES GEAR BOX and put it into the car..use my gear stick on it..its UNLEADED, SO THE CABLE RUNS TO THE PASSENGER SIDE..

You'll need a xflow t5 bellhousing, 4.0l are different to xflow

Yes Dean, the first pic certainly wasn't clear on that. As I have read so much stuff on the subject, I couldn't remember where I had seen the info relevant to my question...so with your prompting I went back to Dave's thread and found it again.
 

I was suspect of this idle switch when I tried to twist the vacuum hose off and noticed that the plastic could turn in the metal body, which made me realise that it is probably no longer hermetically sealed and either not working at all or only partially...
 
I feel like I'm getting a better understanding of these carbs now and will have a go at giving it a new lease of life. I've owned my 89' van since 99' and it has only recently begun to run differently. For a while I was running E10 which made it run beautifully, but now I wouldn't recommend it (for those who don't know, E10 is terrible for diaphragms) which is most likely the reason for the demise of my diaphragms...
 
All in all, my van has been a very reliable daily for me over the years!
Go the Blue Oval!

ah i didn't see that electric solenoid, that's where the idle jet is then. 
the other is possibly for idling up the engine if it's about to stall (air con switched on at idle etc)
 
i haven't looked at one for many years,
but the first thing i'd do regardless is just take the diaphragm covers off and check them, split, stiff etc = issues.
(there's another on the inside of the top cover under the thing with the spring on it which i believe is a low vacuum enrichment part, as in going up a hill in a higher gear with low revs)
 
do it once do it right is great, @SPArKy_Dave has listed links to geniune diaphram kits which would no doubt last longer than the repro stuff available today.(at repco etc)