ando76

Yeah. Keen to finish it off and head to the dyno. I don't care if the panels aren't on it. I just want to see what it makes. Lol. 

With the business really kicking goals, it has taken way longer than I first anticipated but it finally lives. For those that don't follow the business Facebook page the reason for the sudden motivation to finish it is my wife and I have entered Targa Great Barrier Reef and we are doing it in the ute!!!!
 
Being complete novices we are entered in the TSD class (time speed distance).  This allows a max speed of 130km/h but doesn't require a cage or half cage. Penny is keen to learn rally Nav so it will be a good starting point where we can still give the old girl some currie. 
 
Rules dont allow boost so the low comp head went and I stuck the original head off old faithful on to bump the comp up a bit. She now has 10.9:1 and seems to enjoy it. The original plan of this build was to do upgrades along the way and post results and that hasn't changed. I've got a series of intake manifolds and carbs to try and I'll post the result up on here as well as on the business page. 
 
Anyway as you can see from the vid vid I still have to finish painting the old girl but at least all the rust is cut and she is reasonably straight. I plan to drive the wheels off this thing next year.  Can't wait. 

With the business really kicking goals, it has taken way longer than I first anticipated but it finally lives. For those that don't follow the business Facebook page the reason for the sudden motivation to finish it is my wife and I have entered Targa Great Barrier Reef and we are doing it in the ute!!!!
 
Being complete novices we are entered in the TSD class (time speed distance).  This allows a max speed of 130km/h but doesn't require a cage or half cage. Penny is keen to learn rally Nav so it will be a good starting point where we can still give the old girl some currie. 
 
Rules dont allow boost so the low comp head went and I stuck the original head off old faithful on to bump the comp up a bit. She now has 10.9:1 and seems to enjoy it. The original plan of this build was to do upgrades along the way and post results and that hasn't changed. I've got a series of intake manifolds and carbs to try and I'll post the result up on here as well as on the business page. 
 
Anyway as you can see from the vid vid I still have to finish painting the old girl but at least all the rust is cut and she is reasonably straight. I plan to drive the wheels off this thing next year.  Can't wait. 

With the business really kicking goals, it has taken way longer than I first anticipated but it finally lives. For those that don't follow the business Facebook page the reason for the sudden motivation to finish it is my wife and I have entered Targa Great Barrier Reef and we are doing it in the ute!!!!
 
Being complete novices we are entered in the TSD class (time speed distance).  This allows a max speed of 130km/h but doesn't require a cage or half cage. Penny is keen to learn rally Nav so it will be a good starting point where we can still give the old girl some currie. 
 
Rules dont allow boost so the low comp head went and I stuck the original head off old faithful on to bump the comp up a bit. She now has 10.9:1 and seems to enjoy it. The original plan of this build was to do upgrades along the way and post results and that hasn't changed. I've got a series of intake manifolds and carbs to try and I'll post the result up on here as well as on the business page. 
 
Anyway as you can see from the vid vid I still have to finish painting the old girl but at least all the rust is cut and she is reasonably straight. I plan to drive the wheels off this thing next year.  Can't wait. 

Nah. Same same. The castor bars go to the front on tc td and towards the rear on Te tf. On,y really a problem if you put a kick out on the drivers side of the sump (like you usually would on a speedway car). 
 
I believe the bolt patterns and half moons are identical between pre and crossflow. I have a precrossflow engine innthe back of my work ute that I have to strip later this week so I'll have a better idea but I'm certain you will be able to use pre crossflow on actual x flow. 

If your going to track race it and have a tuneable ecu then I'd forget the hydraulic and go straight to a solid.  Hydraulic Cams just can't deal with the rigours of constant mid to high rpm.  
 
The reality is a solid will make more power and way more reliably than the hydraulic. With the right springs you won't be doing tappet checks as often as you would imagine. 
 
The rest sounds good. Don't forget tomfactor in a half decent sump for track work. 

If your going to track race it and have a tuneable ecu then I'd forget the hydraulic and go straight to a solid.  Hydraulic Cams just can't deal with the rigours of constant mid to high rpm.  
 
The reality is a solid will make more power and way more reliably than the hydraulic. With the right springs you won't be doing tappet checks as often as you would imagine. 
 
The rest sounds good. Don't forget tomfactor in a half decent sump for track work. 

If your going to track race it and have a tuneable ecu then I'd forget the hydraulic and go straight to a solid.  Hydraulic Cams just can't deal with the rigours of constant mid to high rpm.  
 
The reality is a solid will make more power and way more reliably than the hydraulic. With the right springs you won't be doing tappet checks as often as you would imagine. 
 
The rest sounds good. Don't forget tomfactor in a half decent sump for track work. 

Oh and it's a 4 barrel car!!!!

If bang for buck is your biggest determining factor, just put a Barra in it. You could buy a whole Barra for next to nothing and install it with its loom for stupid cheap. Have a look in the member builds at the xf race car one of the members built. It goes hard.  
 
The speedway boys throw Cams and a tune at them and get 275rwhp (manually shifted) without raising a sweat.  As said above, to make that power from a xflow you need to be sick in the head like me and many others on here.  But hey it's horses for courses. People still build fast Holden red motors......
 
The Barra conversion is relatively straight forward as many have done it. 

If bang for buck is your biggest determining factor, just put a Barra in it. You could buy a whole Barra for next to nothing and install it with its loom for stupid cheap. Have a look in the member builds at the xf race car one of the members built. It goes hard.  
 
The speedway boys throw Cams and a tune at them and get 275rwhp (manually shifted) without raising a sweat.  As said above, to make that power from a xflow you need to be sick in the head like me and many others on here.  But hey it's horses for courses. People still build fast Holden red motors......
 
The Barra conversion is relatively straight forward as many have done it. 

If bang for buck is your biggest determining factor, just put a Barra in it. You could buy a whole Barra for next to nothing and install it with its loom for stupid cheap. Have a look in the member builds at the xf race car one of the members built. It goes hard.  
 
The speedway boys throw Cams and a tune at them and get 275rwhp (manually shifted) without raising a sweat.  As said above, to make that power from a xflow you need to be sick in the head like me and many others on here.  But hey it's horses for courses. People still build fast Holden red motors......
 
The Barra conversion is relatively straight forward as many have done it. 

If your keeping the crossflow and stock EFI, then keep the engine stock. No point fucking around chucking money at it to go faster while it's got the factory EFI.
 
Carbys work, but it is 2018. You can put an aftermarket EFI solution on fully installed for under $1k if you do it yourself. Then tune it as cranky/mental as you want with all the benefits that come with efi and after market computer (full tuneability)
 
If you were smart you would fit a Barra and be done with it. There are a few of us that have a disease and love spending money on crossflows to go slow. Myself included. But I know deep down I could have spent half on a Barra conversion and gone twice as fast. 
 
 

Smart man speaking here^^^^. Listen. 

If the est is working then leave it.  If it's not then you could use the xe magnetic dizzy.  Just make sure it's in good condition and keep the revs sensible. 
Dont throw the est dizzy away - you will need it when you do the built motor.

Smart man speaking here^^^^. Listen. 

Smart man speaking here^^^^. Listen. 

No. Hook it up to a programmable MSD 6AL2 and then you can have any curve you like and to suit any cam.

So that is something to add to the budget for the engine build

If the est is working then leave it.  If it's not then you could use the xe magnetic dizzy.  Just make sure it's in good condition and keep the revs sensible. 
Dont throw the est dizzy away - you will need it when you do the built motor.

Just a bit of an update as to why the xg passenger side cable doesn't fit up nicely to the xf when doing this conversion. 
 
The very forward most cable mounting bracket on the passenger side is 45mm further forward on the xf compared to xg. This means the cable has to travel further to clamp into the mount.  If you mount the xg cable in the xf clamp you will see that the cable doesn't runs on an angle over to the primary lever - not straight like the xg. 
 
Next difference is the mounting pivot point for the primary lever. Yes the lever is very similar lever for xf and xg but the mounting point for the pivot is further out on the xg than xf. Again this means that the cable has further to travel to hook up. 
 
Nkw you could stuff around and move the mounting clamp further back and also weld in the xg pivot bracket, but really it's way easier just to install the xf primary lever and longer adjuster as the others have done above. 

Agree. No easier engine to learn on. It's not that hard and if you take shots on your phone you'll have a colour workshop manual to reference from. 
 
If it has wiped a lobe (which is pretty common) you can bet the oil pump will be junk. The oil pump cops any metal dropped through the engine first. Yeah the filter will catch it after the pump has done its job, but you can bet the inside of the pump will look like a concrete mixer. 
 
Full gaskets sets are silly cheap. Borrow or buy an engine crane and have a crack. There are some good people on here who will help you through if you get stuck. 

Agree. No easier engine to learn on. It's not that hard and if you take shots on your phone you'll have a colour workshop manual to reference from. 
 
If it has wiped a lobe (which is pretty common) you can bet the oil pump will be junk. The oil pump cops any metal dropped through the engine first. Yeah the filter will catch it after the pump has done its job, but you can bet the inside of the pump will look like a concrete mixer. 
 
Full gaskets sets are silly cheap. Borrow or buy an engine crane and have a crack. There are some good people on here who will help you through if you get stuck. 

Just a bit of an update as to why the xg passenger side cable doesn't fit up nicely to the xf when doing this conversion. 
 
The very forward most cable mounting bracket on the passenger side is 45mm further forward on the xf compared to xg. This means the cable has to travel further to clamp into the mount.  If you mount the xg cable in the xf clamp you will see that the cable doesn't runs on an angle over to the primary lever - not straight like the xg. 
 
Next difference is the mounting pivot point for the primary lever. Yes the lever is very similar lever for xf and xg but the mounting point for the pivot is further out on the xg than xf. Again this means that the cable has further to travel to hook up. 
 
Nkw you could stuff around and move the mounting clamp further back and also weld in the xg pivot bracket, but really it's way easier just to install the xf primary lever and longer adjuster as the others have done above. 

Agree. No easier engine to learn on. It's not that hard and if you take shots on your phone you'll have a colour workshop manual to reference from. 
 
If it has wiped a lobe (which is pretty common) you can bet the oil pump will be junk. The oil pump cops any metal dropped through the engine first. Yeah the filter will catch it after the pump has done its job, but you can bet the inside of the pump will look like a concrete mixer. 
 
Full gaskets sets are silly cheap. Borrow or buy an engine crane and have a crack. There are some good people on here who will help you through if you get stuck.