ando76

Clevo water pump offset is incorrect, so it will be early non crossflow.  
Looking at the dizzy gear wear and the wear on the oil pump drive I'd be saying high volume oil pump 

Could just be a slapper engine assembled with whatever bits were lying around.

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It is a crack.  Very common to have them crack there. It's not an issue tho and will work fine. 
If it is an unmachined c2 it should cc at 42cc, but could be less if it's had a hair cut.  No evidence of anyone laying the chamber walls back so I'd say it will be 42cc or less. 

It is a crack.  Very common to have them crack there. It's not an issue tho and will work fine. 
If it is an unmachined c2 it should cc at 42cc, but could be less if it's had a hair cut.  No evidence of anyone laying the chamber walls back so I'd say it will be 42cc or less. 

Ask old mate. Every engine builder has their own thoughts on this. 

Well I guess the answer to that is, what is your current piston to valve clearance?  Minus what you intend to cut off the head and is that going to cause piston to valve issues.  

You may want to factor in your piston to valve clearance.  Personally I wouldn't hack that much off a crossy head. 

Always degree in the cam.
And it does not matter so much what wheel you use, as long as your reference/zero point does not change during the measurements.

I print my own degree wheels onto A4 paper, cut it out and laminate it. You cna have it any size, But remember a larger wheel, will increase the accuracy of your measurements, It is hard to discern 1 degree on a 3 inch wheel. But on a 30 inch wheel you can degree to seconds of a degree with ease.

Cutting your dick off with a chainsaw is different, doesn't mean you should do it.

OP Dex was referring to a roots type kit blower, with carbs & chrome and blower whine being favoured over outright hp or hp per dollar. Cool factor is the priority. 
Procharger, Vortech etc are all centrifugal blowers which are not only different in their characteristics by the way they deliver boost to positive displacement blowers (like roots or Whipple type). They also look totally different, they're basically a turbo with a gearbox and belt pulley on the back. They don't possess the "cool factor" of a the positive displacement blower in the same way that turbos don't  (if you regard that look as cool). 
I can see how a centrifugal blower would be appealing especially in kit form, their bolt on nature and linear power delivery making good gains in peak & midrange hp and easy to tune. They can make some huge hp numbers with big cube v8s especially, but still aren't as efficient as turbos, can have belt slip and aren't exactly cheap. 
 

The gain with a charger will be in low and mid range torque.  Of course if you turn it harder the hp gain will be higher. The kit is expensive yes and if your handy you could make something cheaper, but if you charged yourself an hourly rate you'd be very close to the price of the kit.  
If you have the coin, want to be different and love the sound of a traditional blower I reckon go for it.  
I was going with the m90 blower on my shop ute but I've been that flat with work I haven't even looked at it for 2 years now. Lol. 

Why doesn't anyone want to build a rear mount turbo flow?  It would be so different from all the sheep out there. It would make good power and torque for fek all and if you had a ute it would make it so easy. Oil reservoir in the space beside the tank in the tray. Diff pump pushing the oil around the turbo.  
Modern TBI Holley style injection on a four barrel manifold.  It would be reliable, relatively cheap, easy to tune and a real sleeper. I actually spoke with bloke from Dalby about this idea this arvo.  Cause he was talking supercharger, but wanted sleeper. Those two things don't go together. But rear mount turbo, no intercooler needed. TBI on a four barrel would be well below the bonnet and would keep,the stealth look. 
Yeah barra turbo would be easier and potentially cheaper, but to be honest it's been done to death in my opinion. Why be another sheep in the flock.....

Why doesn't anyone want to build a rear mount turbo flow?  It would be so different from all the sheep out there. It would make good power and torque for fek all and if you had a ute it would make it so easy. Oil reservoir in the space beside the tank in the tray. Diff pump pushing the oil around the turbo.  
Modern TBI Holley style injection on a four barrel manifold.  It would be reliable, relatively cheap, easy to tune and a real sleeper. I actually spoke with bloke from Dalby about this idea this arvo.  Cause he was talking supercharger, but wanted sleeper. Those two things don't go together. But rear mount turbo, no intercooler needed. TBI on a four barrel would be well below the bonnet and would keep,the stealth look. 
Yeah barra turbo would be easier and potentially cheaper, but to be honest it's been done to death in my opinion. Why be another sheep in the flock.....

Agree. You really have to want to do a crossflow these days. The truth is they are an expensive engine to do when compared to any modern stuff. It's the price you pay to be different from the sheep.  If your willing to pay the price and build a good one, you won't be disappointed. 
There is something very special about kicking modern cars arses in an old xd, cart spring and crossflow powered race car. For that feeling alone I'm happy to keep playing with them. 

Agree. You really have to want to do a crossflow these days. The truth is they are an expensive engine to do when compared to any modern stuff. It's the price you pay to be different from the sheep.  If your willing to pay the price and build a good one, you won't be disappointed. 
There is something very special about kicking modern cars arses in an old xd, cart spring and crossflow powered race car. For that feeling alone I'm happy to keep playing with them. 

The gain with a charger will be in low and mid range torque.  Of course if you turn it harder the hp gain will be higher. The kit is expensive yes and if your handy you could make something cheaper, but if you charged yourself an hourly rate you'd be very close to the price of the kit.  
If you have the coin, want to be different and love the sound of a traditional blower I reckon go for it.  
I was going with the m90 blower on my shop ute but I've been that flat with work I haven't even looked at it for 2 years now. Lol. 

The gain with a charger will be in low and mid range torque.  Of course if you turn it harder the hp gain will be higher. The kit is expensive yes and if your handy you could make something cheaper, but if you charged yourself an hourly rate you'd be very close to the price of the kit.  
If you have the coin, want to be different and love the sound of a traditional blower I reckon go for it.  
I was going with the m90 blower on my shop ute but I've been that flat with work I haven't even looked at it for 2 years now. Lol. 

That small plug is definitely the lifter gallery plug.  I wouldn't bother replacing it for what your doing. If you do go to the trouble ensure you peen over the block like the photo grimmy put up.  Those suckers are in the oil pressure gallery and you don't want them falling out. 
On race motors I tap them and loctite in a grub screw. 

That small plug is definitely the lifter gallery plug.  I wouldn't bother replacing it for what your doing. If you do go to the trouble ensure you peen over the block like the photo grimmy put up.  Those suckers are in the oil pressure gallery and you don't want them falling out. 
On race motors I tap them and loctite in a grub screw. 

I've had some with really nice gaps and others that were really bad. Luck of the draw. Start at the back and work forward. If your chasing nice gaps on any older ford or whatever car for that matter it needs to happen prior to paint. As Ando said rubbers fitted and door hinges bushed to eliminate droop. Really nice gaps will require levering, smacking them with mallets and hammers, or adding metal by welding or grinding edges back and rewelding to suit. If you aren't that keen its a happy medium I'm afraid. One that really shits me is the dog leg to back door. I don't think I've had one yet that doesn't have a way to tight gap. 

If there's one consolation, the colour will be the same Satellite Brown, so being pretty dark, the gaps won't show as much as if it were white or yellow.

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Oh it's a pain on most cars.  Doing it with new hinges (no slop) is a must. Then you get it all right and fit new door rubbers and it all goes to the shit again. 
Patience is the key and if you have already painted your panels you will have to live with the non Lexus ball bearing gap thing. 
XL-XP are shocking at that plenum/ guard junction. I feel your pain. 

Yep. That's it. Fuel pullover through the squirters. It does chronic things to mixtures and afr as outlined in old mates you tube video. 
It turns the accelerator pump squirters into a fuel injector. They just go open circuit. It's one of the most bizarre things I've seen on the dyno. Had a 2 barrel and 4 barrel crossy both do it.  Last time I was at Boetchhers on their hub dyno, Brenton their main brain and engine dude couldn't believe it.  He actually made me run the car up a couple of times so he could video it.  It's not something that occurs on their big dollar, US sourced v8's.  It actually does occur on very high revving v8 engines. 
 

I'd say more like 42 or less. 

Let me know when your close to buying. Pat @ Competition Systems has become a very good friend. If your keen let me know