78xcgxl

All sorted today after spending lots of time and headaches, changing fuel rails, mucking around with heaps of different pumps, the car started and ran, thank god! All due to a dodgy fuel regulator and looks like my wiring is all good! Not bad for a 17 year old with no real electrical experience to wire up a fuel injected AU motor into a XC Falcon

LOL Hollywood, those afr's look spot on.
 
5000 13 .885la
5500 13.25 .90la
6000 13 .885la
6500 12.5 .85la
7000 13.5 .92la
 
I run mine in the same range, even up to .94 every time I roll into the water box and I'm on petrol I'd run more on alcohol. My Crossflow wouldn't go that high but then again you need 10 degrees more timing in a Crossflow then a Barra
 
.88 under load is to rich for these engines mph loss is a result.
 
Barra to the front. Crossflow to the dump!!!!

I agree. I like them as well but i want a 19 x9 or 19x10 for the rear with some dish.  I like to run a minimal of 275 rear tyres on a X series for that nice fat ass look.

I agree. I like them as well but i want a 19 x9 or 19x10 for the rear with some dish.  I like to run a minimal of 275 rear tyres on a X series for that nice fat ass look.

I agree. I like them as well but i want a 19 x9 or 19x10 for the rear with some dish.  I like to run a minimal of 275 rear tyres on a X series for that nice fat ass look.

Why did they only do em as an 8" width. Need more fat.

Preston panels in victoria can modify standard sumps to be exact replicas of phase 4 sumps.

I disagree with you on not running urethane bushes on a road vehicle. Both my car run all urethane and both ride really nice, far better than rubber bushes. Sure NVH is slightly increased but really not that much from what i have experience. I find wide lower profile wheels and tyres cause far more NVH than urethane bushes alone. As long as they are greased and installed properly they won't give you any trouble.
 
The trade off for a slightly increased NVH with gains in far better road feel,  tight suspension and far better handling is worth it.
 
I do agree with not running urethane shock bushes they are a stupid idea and are going good for sheering the shock mount bolts.

This isn't done for a comfort purpose actually. The reason why all the new idler arms are one side urethane and the other side rubber is because the rubber acts like a return spring that helps center the steering after going around a corner. This is why in the workshop manual it states that the steering wheel must be in the straight ahead position before tightening the idler arm bolts. If you look at the idler arm bush on the rubber side it has teeth that grab into the steering leakage and thus creating tension when the steering wheel is turned.

The shelby drop lowers the upper control arm 1 inch, not the actual car suspension ride height 1 inch. The shelby drop will lower the car only around a 1/4 of a inch and it's purpose is not designed to actually lower the car, just improve camber curve.
 
I would just replace springs with the correct king springs KFFl-0 and fit shortened shocks in, this will fix all the issues you are currently having.

So the S/L king springs that I've bought aren't going to work?
So if I got KFFL-0 with the same shocks it'd be okay?
And how do some people get them so low and safe?

he just needs to lower the car properly! Super Lows are NOT for street or track, they are for shows, simple as that. You should of used the KFFL-0 with a shortened damper as recommended by King. 
You can get lower than the KFFL-0, another half inch but you will need a much better damper and about 900 pound spring

Gold, young fella! Gold! Thanks heaps for that....I did think the sedan ones were pop-rivetted ..reps pour vous!

Pics of A pillar , even took a photo of one cut so you can see how the different layers are put together.
 

 

. I see what you car saying but the A pillar on these cars have many different layers and is pressed in particular shape that it will be quite hard and time consuming to replicate as per factory. I've got a donor XC that i think has a good drivers A pillar i can take pics of it and if you want happy to cut it out for you. Where abouts are you located?

As far as I'm aware, all Ghia's were auto except for a few "one offs" that were probably special order.
The cruise was integrated into the headlight control pod though, so surely they must have found a way to make it work.
 
You could also get dealer fitted cruise control to non Ghia models.
 
My Ford workshop manual mentions a cruise clutch switch, I can have a look at it tonight see exactly what it says.

Hi just a quick update measured the temp out the vents on the ZH and got 4.9 to 5.1 degrees not to shabby i reckon. I might adjust the thermostat to see if i can get it down to 4 haha. My Ba could only get it down to 7.5 degree so must be a bit low on gas but had no problem cooling the car during the summer this year. 

Thought i'd give an update on the A/C on my ZH fairlane. I replaced all the seals with new green ones,installed R134a gas fittings, installed a new TX valve and installed a new receiver dryer. I was going to use minus 30 gas but my mate didn't have the fitting to go on the can so we just installed good old R134a which is okay as i converted the system to run it anyways. So 850grams was filled as per Ford's instructions and results were far better than expected. A/C is literally freezing and works much better than my BA falcon! I'm so happy with the outcome and just goes to prove the factory a/c can work fantastic even with the crappy york compressor. Keep in mind the A/C box has not been touched, A/C compressor is original 78 stamped one, lines are all original along with the condenser. This all cost me under $200.
 
I can't wait to see how it will work in my XC as i have rebuilt the box, will be running the BF compressor and a XG/XF brand new condenser which is much better than a XC/ZH one, along with all brand new lines.
 
Will be great on car club runs and show and shine events, seeing people sweating their ass in vinyl seats while i'll be cruising with a jacket on as the A/C is soo cold hahaha
 
Here are some pics.
 

 
 

 

 
 

 

 
 
 
 
And check this out, look how bloody cold it gets hahaha!
 
 

 
 

 
 

Had a quick look at it and there's nothing on mine for it, saying that it came out of a ute I wrecked that had been converted from auto to manual so may be a XE or older pedal box.

XC GXL sereis 1 and 2 did not differ in chrome trims and blacks outs. All GXLs have blacked out front and rear windscreen trims, door frames and Bpillar, overiders, blacked out bootlid and tail light filler panel, fuel cap  black door handles etc. Only exterior difference between an early model XC GXL and Late model ones were the badges.
 
.

-GS rally pack optioned cars had the black 4.9/5.8 badges.
 
- All bonnet scoops on XCs were painted body colour from the factory and did not come with bonnet pins. (was a popular thing back in the day to paint black however)
 
-Vinyl Roof was an option on all XCs including the GXL, however if sunroof was optioned up Vinyl roof was mandatory. It was possible for the vinyl roof to be fitted at the dealership as an accessory however the C pillar mould that were used are different compared to factory vinyl roof ones.  Vinyl roof came standard on ZH fairlanes and LTDs however.
 
If you having anymore questions, I’m happy to help

Hahah they are bloody awesome, go so hard and so cheap to run! 409Nm of  bloody torque stock! I'm in stages of convincing my Mum to get a FG G6E MkII Ecolpi as her next car

If you were going to do that why not just use the injectors. I would have thought the main reason is to get rid of the ECU etc.
 
I want to see the engine Thom was talking about.

awesome thats what i was hoping to hear thanks mate - fuck mother nature i got solar panels it evens out the trees i kill

Go the EB, much better car in all aspects. I have a soft spot for EBs and especially ED XR6s, they look awesome!