SPArKy_Dave

My brother's bike has a connector hard-wired onto the battery to fit a trickle charger so you don't have to take it apart every time you want to charge it. Could you maybe do something similar to that and just leave the plug in a convenient place to hook up when you want to jump it?

Gee is there still single cylinder listers engines about?     Just been thinking about the above comments about a single battery.  As all the jump starters seem to have alligator clamps I am wondering if you could change them over to 50amp Anderson plug so you could have a permanent connection hard wired to battery an plug jumper into it when needed  even if I use the newer lithium type over agm    ???? Thanks 

Yrs ago, I built a dual battery controller for my Range Rover, as the early 80's models have dual battery trays from factory,
just no wiring.
 
The way things are headed, batteries could be cheaper than grid supply!
(probably not, but who knows!)
 
Last year, I looked into the old single cylinder diesel gensets, made by Lister.
They run on almost any oil-based fuel source.

you can chat to a camping solar dude @SPArKy_Dave may not be familiar with? 12v dual battery kits, but there are many that will shut the power off when the battery is still ok to start the van (suspect a 900cca even at 11v would crank that 4cyl van fine for eg) chuck a solar panel on the roof and you'd not likely to need a jump starter anyway depending on current draw of the system (I've only just scratched the surface of this stuff, i think it would be handy to have for future insecure 240v house supply)

Cheers sparky  that info about the jumper being all small batteries was an eye opener think I will be staying away from them then.  I think I better do some more researching    Thanks again guys
demmo 

what sort are you planning to use?
there's no way i'd have Lithium Ion unattended on My car.
and those little ones with a lead acid gel type battery are pretty crap. 
i'd sooner fit a dual battery setup if you had to have one?(why do you want one? just fit the best battery that fits in the space?

@SPArKy_Dave might have some thoughts

The consensus seems to be PDR. The crowd has spoken, so I will listen! Appreciate people pointing me in the right direction.
 
Man I tell ya when I did the plunger and it worked I thought I possessed Jesus powers, then I bumped into it and the metal caved back in again. I agree with the advice given here. let me finish this tear down of the LIM.  I was posting pics because  people always like to see progress before/after.

I vote for PDR (paintless dent removal) also.
It's the least involved, and usually avoids re-painting - which can open a can of worms.
 
Skilled PDR technicians, can work miracles!

Keep us all posted, I for one am keen to see what's causing the issue!

I vote for PDR (paintless dent removal) also.
It's the least involved, and usually avoids re-painting - which can open a can of worms.
 
Skilled PDR technicians, can work miracles!

Have you tried the paintless dent removal option yet b4 doing the sanding/filler route?

the people that know anything were likely 30-40yrs old when i got mine, that was 30yrs ago so they are likely retired or turned into managers/desk workers.
biggest reason i went to Pedders instead of "other aligners" is they check to see if the suspension is worn before doing one. (got an alignment from Bob Jane about 20yrs ago and it chewed tyres like it was going out of style, took it to pedders, LOOK HOW WORN THE IDLER ARM and TIE Rod is, no hope of aligning that. )

Carby expert i dealt with last was still working at age 67 but passed away probably age 68 ish(was only working part time 3 days a week)

It's home now and that miss is really bad. No way this is electrical. Driving it on and off the trailer, it shook and carried on like a dog shitting razor blades. I suspect this is likely to be a head gasket blown between 2 cylinders, as my brother's Bronco was very similar and had blown the head gasket between #1 and #2. When I get time, I'll do a full comp test and leak down and pull the valve cover to have a look why there is bugger all oil around the rocker gear. The comp test will give some indication as to WTF is going on.

Yeah tried them, no clue 

Cheers lads, someone on an FB group helped out with these.

how much is it to recore one? the core itelf is on ebay for the first time i've ever seen for $135 ish link to triple core
 
used reasonable ones should still be under $100 if you can find a wrecker
 
new copper brass in 3 core (2 core must be cheaper )  at $900 in the wide ones link to new copper brass 3 CORE
 
$200 odd for a new alloy one, not sure which alloy one is the peoples choice, but plenty of people are using them these days new alloy one

At around $1,200.00 for a brand new copper/brass x-series radiator... your one is infinitely rebuildable.
 
Think like Grandad's axe -
end tanks can be un-soldered and the core cleaned out, (re-cored if needed) many times over.
Much MUCH cheaper than $1.2k.
 
 

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Absolutely. Most of the 'new' parts were fitted by others. Mine are the injectors, coil pack and CTS in the back of the head. The others (ECU, etc) are parts from a known running engine in working order. Because much of the wiring 'testing was not done by me, I have to reassure myself that it was done correctly. I've run nodes on the injector plugs, they all fire correctly, only #1 intermittently does not flash. I have spark at #1, again intermittently, but spark none the less. All the sensors check out, according to the factory resistance values, including many of the old replaced ones. My biggest issue is I haven't have the time I needed to delve deeper into the whole problem. All the info I have on what was done is second hand, so I'm not entirely certain I'm getting the full story. When I visit Dad, I HAVE to leave by 2 pm at the latest, or it takes over an hour to get through the mad afternoon traffic clusterf*ck that is the Ring road and Calder 'highway' to get to and past Calder Park to get home. Once I have the car here, I can start my investigation of the cause without any interuptions (other than the squealing handbrake) and work.
While the electronics and wiring on AUs is very complex, I'm still not entirely convinced this is an electrical gremlin, rather a mechanical fault. Without a doubt, the ECU failure was a primary cause of the original no-start, it run fine after for a few days, then started missing. That has NOT gone away. I'm thinking that during the original repairs, those apes revved the absolute piss out of the engine and started an internal failure that continues to this day. Anyway, I will get to the bottom of it, even if it entails replacing the ENTIRE wiring harnesses and/or engine of the car itself. If it's an engine replacement, it will go V8.

There is an Aussie numberplate collectors forum - www.plateshed.com
I'd probably ask them.
 
Reproducing the reflective background, is the most challenging.
To my knowledge, the letters/numbers were coloured green, via screen-printing applied paint.
 
I've also heard there are a few old number plate press machines around - used for creating 'movie reproduction' plates.
If u can prove u own a certain combo, I've also heard certain owners of said machines may press a 'movie reproduction' plate for people,
who may wish to have a vehicle used in a 'film production'.
 
Even if Vicroads would reproduce initial's style number plates with the Garden State slogan, their reproductions are quite frankly... crap.
The letter/number font is not era correct at all
nor is the letter/number placement, nor the green colour
and the 'Garden State' slogan is printed on, rather than embossed/screen-print highlighted.
 
IMO, as expensive as they are, Vicroads should at least try to get them accurate.
 
Same with using the original combination plates, on club permits - as they allow in QLD and WA
 
_______________________________________________________________________________________________
  Who makes number plates in Victoria? Victorian registration plates are manufactured at Hopkins Correctional Centre in Ararat, Victoria. Vehicle registration plates of Victoria - Wikipedia  
 

U can get correct reproduction transmission tunnel Hex head self tappers on ebay I think?
From factory, I think the 'screwed down' tunnels, were sealed with a black non-curing butyl sealer - ie, windscreen sealant.

I bought this panel for my XF, the fit seems perfect. Should this be bolted in (with sealant / panelbond) or welded? If welded, should I stitch weld the whole panel, or just plug weld the holes?
 
Ford Transmission Tunnel Cover XR XT XW XY Falcon ZA ZB ZC ZD Fairlane rust (kingswoodcountry.com.au)
 

 
Sorry for the very basic questions, I don't know anything at all about bodywork. I have a cheap mig welder.

Little update, just picked up what's in the pic above for $50

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