gerg

I hope you get a few hundred thousand ks out of it now, because thats why we build these particular engines right
Cheers!

Yeah that sucks mate, Lesson learnt hey. I learned the hard way too bro!

Thats a shame bud...just goe's to show trust no one but yourself.

The gerg strikes again. ( that's a compliment by the way ) Once again a very interesting subject/s and lots of good info from all
Man I wish I understood cam specs more!

Something is wrong with Tapatalk ??? <br />Anyways im just gonna go back to working on my <150rwkw corty ;-)

Where are you located Jamie?
 
I may be able to recommend you a decent workshop for a stroker build or they will be able to have a chat and come up with a combo that is realistic to what your after. I am in the same situation at the moment. I really thought that I needed to have a 550HP+ stroker clevo for my ute but realistically I am really after something that will be more orientated for the street with heaps of torque down low. The problem with today is that everyone is all HP crazy and think that they need big cubes and dyno queen figures. When in reality there is nothing wrong with 351 cubes and decent heads for 90% of applications. The best advice I can give mate is work out what you really want in a combo and go from there. If you are not honest with yourself you will not be happy with the final outcome and it will also cost you a lot more $$$ in the end.
 
Cheers

In a Corty with the right gearing, that puts you in the 13's... Respect!

The last one I did was stuck in there good, possibly spun and welded itself. If cups are too hard to knock out with a drift or slide hammer, I run a bead of mig weld all round inside the cup, then as the weld cools, the cup shrinks and will literally fall out, every time. Just be careful not to weld the cup to the tube. You'll be in a world of shit if you do.

Well there's really no issue with them if set up correctly.With the added fact that almost all modern cars run thermo fans with no belt driven fan sort of makes the point loud and clear.Hard to argue with that really unless the big car manufacturers are all wrong of course?

I hate engine-driven fans. They work the hardest when you don't need them (on the highway) and the least when you need them the most (at idle).
 
They clutter up your engine bay, and are a bitch when you need to do work on something, like changing belts on the side of the road. They put lots of strain on your belts (ever revved a cold engine and done a sick fan belt burnout?) and as you stated, take horsepower (and fuel) to run exactly when they're not needed.
 
so I guess I'm one of those dickheads then?

Toe-out is awesome.
Best mate had an Escort, we put 2mm toe-out on it, among other mods. The thing was twitchy as fuck, but fuck my dog it went well. You could have the thing sideways at 120kilos and there was no panic.
But yeah, she took some concentration on straights

No need for expensive gear mate, just a set of ramps and a couple of spanners. Yeah your eyesight is more reliable than what you give it credit for. A spirit level helps if you mount it on the wheel too. Checking tyre wear patterns is a good indicator after a bit of driving.
 
Don't worry, toe is easy too, you just need a tape measure. Measure your wheel track across the front between the wheels, then across the back. The difference is your toe-in/out.
 
Getting camber right means that the direction is not too affected by potholes, bumps, etc. It should load up in corners nicely without ripping the wheel out of your hands, and wear evenly for the kind of driving you do. Too much neg camber means it might lose steering feel in straight ahead position but it will tramline like a bitch. Those Hondas you see slammed on the ground with 5 degrees of camber would be a nightmare to drive, and dangerous. Fashion slaves indeed. Must have shares in the tyre company they use too.
 
If you want I can explain castor too. That's mainly the one that gives you steering feel and returns the steering back to centre.

Yeah 2-1/2 inches is decent... It probably got lighter because of the camber. As you lower it, the top arm goes past horizontal and starts to tip the top ball joint inwards, giving neg camber. I'll bet it rides in ruts on the road like a mongrel!
 
As ILIED says, the eccentric on the lower arm pivot is where you adjust. You can tell by looking at it if it's in all the way or not. At neutral camber, the bolt should be sitting at the bottom of the eccentric washer. Neg camber, bolt moves outwards towards wheel, moves arm with it. Pos camber, bolt moves in towards sump.
 
Yeah steering geometry is a bit of a headfuck but it's mostly in the terminology where you get lost. I've learnt the basics from my trade but taught myself by driving old clunkers and getting a feel for the adjustments. That and I'm a tightarse and won't pay some pimply-faced apprentice who only knows how to replace a strut and adjust toe-in to mess with my car and set it up exactly how I don't want it.
 
X-Falcons are great for adjustability, as just about all aspects can be changed. But like a Holley carb, this allows you more freedom to fuck it up. They go out of whack when you hit big bumps too. Mid-corner potholes are a classic, which tend to put a sideways shock load on your camber adjustment and throw it way out.
 
When hitting bumps to check my toe-in, I don't hit big ones... I like a bit of mechanical sympathy.
 
 
The camber correction kits you're referring to might actually be for E-series Falcs, as they have much less adjustability. They normally use shims in the top arm mounts to get the camber/castor adjustment and the bottom arm is fixed. The better kit eliminates the shim setup and uses an eccentric on each pivot to give wider, easier adjustment. As far as I know, X-Falcons don't have an upper arm kit, but you might be able to shim yours to get your neg camber back out to reasonable, that's if you've run out of adjustment at the bottom arm.
 
Sorry for ranting, just need to explain it properly.

Ive never had issues with crow cams. Had a few engines run like dogs on break in and cams have always held up well.
 
Diesel oils are usually full synthetic these days, I wonder whats the zinc content like?? 
 
I run half a tube of molybdenum paste with some 15/40 GTX3 in all my engines on initial break in.

Yeah even when you do it by the book ya can still get fucked over
But that's cars for ya
 
 
Steve

If you have a drift long enough, say 8 ft long... No seriously, it was a general statement about bearing cups. Welding them out is the most successful method i've used, but only do it if they're too tight to pull out.
 
Installing a new one should be as easy as slipping it in by hand. If it's too tight, there's probably a dag of metal or a galled housing, either of which can be fixed with a bit of emery cloth.

The last one I did was stuck in there good, possibly spun and welded itself. If cups are too hard to knock out with a drift or slide hammer, I run a bead of mig weld all round inside the cup, then as the weld cools, the cup shrinks and will literally fall out, every time. Just be careful not to weld the cup to the tube. You'll be in a world of shit if you do.

Hey that's an idea... A Weber carby-powered Webber. You're an ideas man!

Next time try heating the centre hub of the balancer with a paint stripper gun (yes they're hot enough... I've started a Weber barby with one). Heat it up just enough to get the paint smouldering, then whack it on quickly.

I'd start on an inconspicuous area first, say an inner guard or floor panel. To weld in a patch, use a series of tack welds at each corner. Then go around the piece tacking halfway between the last lot of tacks you did. Then go halfway between those all round and keep doing this till all the gaps are filled in. You can't do a continuous bead on sheetmetal because you're concentrating too much heat on one spot and that warps the panel.
 
A gasless MIG is ok, but the welds will be quite messy and a bit porous. I'd be reluctant to use gasless on anything structural that's for sure. My little SIP is a cheap, transformer type welder and I've mostly used gasless in it but once I used a disposable CO2 bottle with 0.9mm MIG wire and it turned from a pretty ordinary machine to an excellent one. The difference between gas and gasless is chalk and cheese.
 
If you buy a cheap machine, you'd be improving it greatly by pissing off the standard pissy little earth lead and clamp and chucking on something like a 25mm2 cable and a beefy clamp. You can tell if you need to by seeing if the standard one gets hot. If it does, you're losing power through it.

Speedway boys use/like the EA manifolds for that reason bro...Even Holden 6cyl manifolds have different port sizes shapes to try to create more even flow into the head.We basically have a very poo manifold to deal with and the OHC engines really sorted that with there EFI set-up but as for us with carbies you have some trouble.As good as the A0016 Aussispeed 4 barrel is it's just the best of whats available really.It will make awesome HP and is cheap for what it is but it cannot be tuned liked a individual throat/TB per port can.
 
I know "some" people think otherwise but after all this time and still praising the single 4 barrel on a x-flow amazes me.Marks manifold is very good and maybe too good on 1-6 and I know Jase had good success moving the carby on his Cain sytle manifold to help fix the issue but thats beyond what most are willing to or want to do with there's.
 
I can show people mine when it's done that is VERY left of field and VERY custom but it could be done in soo many different and cheaper ways it's not funny.It really makes me wonder why it hasn't been done before or maybe we just havn't seen it or looked hard enough or didn't pay attention?
 
Webbys Webbers make the point loud and proud and it's easy to see why when we open our eyes...

Mine sounds like a silly stocker compared to these. All these meaty cams are making me jealous!

Well there you have it. I always looked at my Redline Torker and thought it looked bad, particularly at 1 & 6. However it did the job on a mild LPG motor, but ran out of puff at 4500.
 
I quite like the manifold on the single point EA. It looks like they actually made some effort to make the runners simlar in length. I've seen one welded to a cross-flow flange, and I wonder how much better that would be over stock.

Does the discolouration occur further up into the inlet manifold? If so, how far up? It's not something funny going on with the EGR gases is it?

OK, it has to be done. If your V8 sounds tits, then put it up here.
 

 
I just ran in the cam on my XE 302 Wags this morning... Very happy after struggling to crank it yesterday with a shitty battery and cables. No mufflers, just straight out of the engine pipes. Not as loud as i thought it would be though.
 
As you can hear, my little bloke loves it.