gerg

nah XG lower radiator mounts are heaps different to XDEF. i used an EF radiator and fans in My XE with 1UZ due to the hose sizes and outlets.  Ants thread mentions what they used in the looking for fishes barra XE ute i'll post a link to it 
 
thread here.. i'll have a look through it 
 
We also used a front tie bar from a ba as its going to use a stock ba radiator, fans and hoses to keep it all as simple as possible and to make it easy to get parts.
To get the bottom radiator hose the original tie bar needed a notch for clearance.
 
 
 

Definitely, get the pedal and the plug with as much wiring as you can

Pretty sure anything from EA onwards will bolt up@Thom ?

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My dad's was an early build BA, his engine was pretty tired at 200k, I reckon valve seals were gone and that's why it was a little smokey on startup, etc. Maybe they sorted minor build issues later on? I dunno, he's not exactly easy on his gear.

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Pic

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Yep, it would be the smart thing to do.
And let's face it, a stock N/A Barra is going to feel like a race car motor in my old ute 😆
 

gerg beat me to it lol..  

just remember, Thoms XH ute got 178 RWKW from efi that was all factory bits mixed and matched. (not sure on tune without reading it all again)
 
 
"a really nice Combo (what some of you will remember I had in my xh) is Au egas short motor, Ef xr6 head, ea cam, El intake with a set of extractors and a tune made 178 rwkw for less than $600<br /><br />"
 
 
 
 

Thom's basic formula for a gun OHC donk using factory parts is AU bottom end, EF head and EA cam. In NSW, it will need engineering, all emissions gear and the ECU that goes with an AU engine (or whatever block is used). It shouldn't be too hard if factory parts like mounts, crossmember, etc can be used.

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Thom's basic formula for a gun OHC donk using factory parts is AU bottom end, EF head and EA cam. In NSW, it will need engineering, all emissions gear and the ECU that goes with an AU engine (or whatever block is used). It shouldn't be too hard if factory parts like mounts, crossmember, etc can be used.

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Thanks gents, I have the King Springs Lows in the front. I'll pick up a set of the Ultima shocks and throw them in.

See the debri line and its lost quite a few meters since yesterday

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oo\li have lived on the gold coast for 20 years and lived at many waterfront places as there is millions of them and they all connect to the ocean and tidal in some way or the water goes stagnent,i think not until you get to robina there is spillways ect ,and very brakish water that can overflow if flood.

But some of the waterways are fed by (tidal) creeks, others are just canals dug in from the ocean, which doesn't rise as much.

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Are some of the salt-waterfront suburbs a bit better off than those near freshwater creeks, or is everywhere stuffed?

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found a pic of the 3.3litre 5 speed
 

This white hatch was fully under water b4 now 4x4 guys are running around playing havoc

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yes thats where i live ,on the lake,my street borders with angelica and belive it or not chestnut st,you can google its true,the news camera was out the front wading thru the deluge,but the road is almost dry now thanks to my 400 rigged up to a big pump,ses want to no more about these 400s.

I saw some pics of Angelica St underwater, is that near you mate? Pretty damn scary those pics you put up!

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Well the car is running again. 
 
ECT sensor replaced, and first flick of the key it started. 
 
drives really well again in completely stock form, however i now have it losing power with wide open throttle. 
 
im guessing the AFM is adjusted incorrectly. Yes in the process of trying to get it to run, i tried adjusting AFR screw in the top of the vane meter. I just dont know which way it is out. 

Well i don't bloody believe it, I think I have found the issue. 
 
In diagnostics mode I kept getting error code 21, which is ECT out of range. So tonight I disconnected the ECT plug, and bridged the pins in the plug with a jump wire, and the car fired up and ran straight away, and ran smooth. throttle was plenty responsive, etc. It obviously ran extremely rich still because the ECU had no idea what temp the engine was at. 
 
I have ordered a new ECT sensor which ill have tomorrow morning and hopefully have the car running good tomorrow. 
 
This sensor failing over time, might be the reason I have never really gotten the ISC valve working with the EL computer on my conversion. It may also explain why more recently ive had an issue with the EL computer making the engine run super rich, have no power and not being able to idle, when it had been running for about 20-30 minutes. possibly because the failing sensor would start giving a false reading at a certain temperature making the EL ECU freak out. then once it was passed that temp range, come good again...
 
Are EL and XF ECT sensors different? as in different resistance, therefore the computers looking for different resistance to make an accurate reading? Maybe the EL ECU is what killed my sensor if it is in fact looking for a different resistance? 
 
I will post here if the car is running properly again with the new sensor tomorrow.  

With the diff ratio, even though 2.92 is only 5% different to the 2.77, it made a big difference to the way my car drove. 
XF Ghia, EFi crossflow with an early T5 (1988 build date) 
 
depending which year the box is, will depend on its 1st and 5th gear ratios. 
 
So if its an early gearbox like mine, matched with a 2.92 diff, it will do the same or similar rpm to a car fitted with a late (EL) T5 and 3.23 diff ratio. 
 
@Mr Polson and I have proven this. 
 
So yes i drove around for a long time with the 2.77 behind my T5, it was fine, maybe a little laboured at 100 in 5th. When i went to the 2.92, it meant it got off the line better, and cruising in 5th at 100 meant unless i really wanted to get going quickly, I could leave it in 5th to overtake without issue. 

2.77 and 2.92 are almost no different (5%) @Panko was having enough issues to change his from 2.77 to 2.92 with the T5, 
i've kept the 2.77 in most cases and not had any issues (shuddering i think on take off the main complaint i think)
that's with stock cams etc that work very well at low revs.(1800 ish at 100kmh) difference for Me though is no fuel saving was made going from 2.77 in the 4 speed at 2250rpm to 1800rpm in 5th with the T5 .. only difference was less engine noise. 
 

Put lifters pushrods balancer manifold nice edelbrock signature series covers and new rockers and oil droppers and correct 400 dip stick looks good and tough

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I have a wide ratio, XF-EA T5 in mine behind a 302 and it is indeed a world class. It also has synchro on 1st (all T5s, WC or non-WC have it actually).

The non-WC has a few clues as to its identity, the main one being the layshaft bearing on the front face of the box just being a plain roller type (with bronze thrust washers inside) identified externally by what looks like a welch plug turned inside out.

The WC box has a tapered bearing here with a cast steel cap that forms the bearing cup for the race. From outside, it looks like the top of a small piston with a slight dish in it and the outer edge will be a machined finish.

Non-WC takes a light (non-EP) gear oil, and has bronze syncros.

WC takes red auto fluid and has fibre-lined steel syncros.

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Finally my cam plate came so on with the rest,nice xe black 1982 heads.

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