Free.51

Ill be using the gaskets👍

Thanks for the reply's guys, now im thinking of just using rtv bead for the front & back i dont want the thing to leak.

Cork gaskets needs dowel pins added (some small nails will work) when I brought my V8 ute front cork was pushed out & later after my 3rd intake swap pushed the rear valley cork out (no pins), went with Felpro pan kit again after that,
Felpro intake valley pan kit comes with nice rubber valley gaskets with moulded dowels, smear with RTV, & blob RTV at either ends near heads works well.
But most these days will just run a thick bead of RTV.
(Felpro in pic)

i used them on My clevo 20yrs ago.. leaked like a sieve.. the dyno guy i used at the time said don't use them and silastic'd them only.. did 80,000kms no leaks.. if doing one again i'd bin them personally

Yes either use the steel valley pan or gaskets not both

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Corks fine as said, long as you use some sealant.
 
I also fitted the valley pan. No leaks at all. 

Thanks mate👍, its just a stock 302 nothing special just gonna change the stock manifold to edelbrock performer manifold now that i have the 600 holley on so i guess i will use the corks then as i dont plan on switching & swapping manifolds regularly.

i use them ,and a dab of sealant,but if your heads and manifold have been machined a lot you might run into sealing problems,its all a matter of what you like and have used some just use the bead of silicon and if your swapping manifolds out regulary probly is the go,but factory engines use the cork.my 400 gasket kit had big rubber ones that snapped into place .

Hi guys i have a question about the cork gaskets that go on the front & back of the block, ive seen the clevo kings vid on yt & he doesn't use them do you guys use them or is it better to discard them & use the rtv on the front & back. Im not sure what to do. I will be getting an edelbrock manifold soon & fitting it, just trying to do my research now instead of later.

bumping this just to insert this photo, and any others i find again
fully reco lights, sold a few years ago.. not doing it again

Exhaust ports on 4v are larger so 2v wont fit.

If you're after new extractors, be mindful of what you buy. All ebay adverts say "will fit from XY - XE" But, there are some differences, many wont fit without a BFH on one of the tubes.
Some wont fit a C6 or FMX, some interfere with manual steering etc, etc, ..
 
As James said, the port sizes are way different, so make sure you get the correct 2V or 4V.  Do you have an inlet manifold? should have 4V stamped on it, if it is a 4V. 98% of Clevo's were only 2V. 
 
The 4V inlet port has roughly the same width of material on top and bottom of the "hole", the 2v on the right, has almost double the thickness on the top of the "hole"
 
 

You will know straight away if it's a 4V, with the inlet manifold off, you will see the inlet ports and be able to almost fit your fist down one. Also, the heads will likely have a "4" cast into one of the corners that stick out from the rocker cover.

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Apologies, having a case of the Mondays. The 4 x 5/16” manifold bolts are the ones that clamp down around the exhaust crossover. On a stock manifold they're quite long, and they can be longer one side than the other. If your manifold has a different arrangement for the crossover, or is blanked off altogether, then those bolts will need to be much shorter than the stock ones, which appears to be how those ones in the packet are.

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8565 bolt kit is for bolting the inlet manifold down, suits 7564 air gap.
The 3/8"? bolts should work just the 5/16" might not be long enough for the 2750 performer on one side, 
BUT a 2750 2v performer also comes with 2x 5/16" bolts & a plate to block off the choke stove hole...

Most aftermarket carbies have a universal SAE pattern. The studs/bolts are 5/16” UNC (course), only the length matters when either bolting directly to the manifold or using a spacer. Normally, for ease of removal/installation, studs and nuts are used. This keeps any gaskets/plates in place while installing. Those bolts you have are also used when an adaptor is installed and the bolts are recessed under the carby.
 
 
They should work if the length doesn't cause them to bottom out in the bolt holes.
 
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I've changed intakes a few times on mine, spread bore to AFD hi-rise, to factory square bore, To AFD hi-rise to factory square bore (yes twice) & finally performer,
I've only ever removed dissy cap & leads, then just the intake.

Can be done, but, easier without.  It's only 2 bolts mate.. 😁

I guess it depends on which one you have. I don't remember needing to remove mine when doing a cam swap

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Kickdown rod is finished, i put brand new battery terminals on the car & used 1 of the old pieces from the terminal to bridge the gap between the kd bracket & kd rod. Then got Ian from KAM autoparts to help me adjust it & am happy to says its running sweet, so thanks to Ian for his help as always & thanks to Greg & Bear & Dean & Jack for their help/advice much appreciated. Nxt thing i might do is get the edelbrock performer manifold, so im assuming the dizzy needs to come out to fit the manifold up?
 
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Yeah Bear, easier but not 100% necessary. I did my factory iron manifold without pulling the dizzy. Fkers are stupid heavy!

At least clevos are one engine where the dizzy doesn't mount through a hole in the manifold.

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Would be waaay easier with the dizzy out, but you can do it with it in. Hard to get to the valley "walls", you'll have the oil sender at the back as well. 
Much easier to pull the dizzy out, (don't turn the crank, it'll pop straight back in) remove the thermostat housing.  Heaps easier to clean all the old gasket goo off........

Waaaay heavier..!  Cast iron housing Vs Alloy. 

Yeah FMX is more beefier than c4 but heavier

Yeah mate, took out the C4 and Borgy, slipped it under the bench, 'cos it's all matching number.  Built up a 351 from bits and pieces I had in the shed, and bolted to my old FMX, 'cos I like to chirp the tyres when changing into 2nd. 🤫 Would have cost thousands to get a C4 to the same state.