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Free.51

Intake gaskets

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Hi guys i have a question about the cork gaskets that go on the front & back of the block, ive seen the clevo kings vid on yt & he doesn't use them do you guys use them or is it better to discard them & use the rtv on the front & back. Im not sure what to do. I will be getting an edelbrock manifold soon & fitting it, just trying to do my research now instead of later.

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i use them ,and a dab of sealant,but if your heads and manifold have been machined a lot you might run into sealing problems,its all a matter of what you like and have used some just use the bead of silicon and if your swapping manifolds out regulary probly is the go,but factory engines use the cork.my 400 gasket kit had big rubber ones that snapped into place .

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13 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

i use them ,and a dab of sealant,but if your heads and manifold have been machined a lot you might run into sealing problems,its all a matter of what you like and have used some just use the bead of silicon and if your swapping manifolds out regulary probly is the go,but factory engines use the cork.my 400 gasket kit had big rubber ones that snapped into place .

Thanks mate👍, its just a stock 302 nothing special just gonna change the stock manifold to edelbrock performer manifold now that i have the 600 holley on so i guess i will use the corks then as i dont plan on switching & swapping manifolds regularly.

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54 minutes ago, Free.51 said:

he doesn't use them do you guys use them or is it better to discard them & use the rtv on the front & back.

i used them on My clevo 20yrs ago.. leaked like a sieve.. the dyno guy i used at the time said don't use them and silastic'd them only.. did 80,000kms no leaks.. if doing one again i'd bin them personally

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Cork gaskets needs dowel pins added (some small nails will work) when I brought my V8 ute front cork was pushed out & later after my 3rd intake swap pushed the rear valley cork out (no pins), went with Felpro pan kit again after that,

Felpro intake valley pan kit comes with nice rubber valley gaskets with moulded dowels, smear with RTV, & blob RTV at either ends near heads works well.

But most these days will just run a thick bead of RTV.

(Felpro in pic)

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Just use the RTV , Sit manifold on the block with gaskets first . Measure the gap . Ensure bead is a little bigger than the gap . Make sure block is spotless clean , then put a light wipe on the block . Then lay your bead .

Then a light wipe on intake . The light wipes ensures the bead takes to itself better .

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17 hours ago, gregaust said:

Just use the RTV , Sit manifold on the block with gaskets first . Measure the gap . Ensure bead is a little bigger than the gap . Make sure block is spotless clean , then put a light wipe on the block . Then lay your bead .

Then a light wipe on intake . The light wipes ensures the bead takes to itself better .

Thanks heaps👍

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Each way works fine. Personally, I always use them.  But, when I do an engine build, the very last thing I do at night is run RTV on the "wall" and stick the gasket on there, then leave the manifold sitting on there overnight. Next day, pull the manifold off, make sure you put a dob of goo on the ends/corners where the gasket meets the head, smear along the entire length, and bolt intake on. Never had a leak. 

The RTV just replaces the gasket, so make sure the bead you run is higher than the original cork would be. As Gregaust has said, and Clevo king has demonstrated.

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Got the manifold today, will put it on sometime soon, just getting the AU ready for a rwc nxt week, noticed last night there is a slight leak coming from the rear muffler liquid/condensation dripping on the driveway.7a24f70f7a3a447eb927f1f28477be6c.jpg3c95aa4562cabf16e588218a1406fd91.jpg

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

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