ESPSIX

Yeah, I ran a Carter electric on my 351 for years, had a kill switch in line as an anti theft device, as well. 😁

Don’t forget the 20 in Simmons to complete the Barra conversion.🤮🤮

As said, for ESP only, without them the mechanism rubs on the bottom of the seat, I took mine out and made half height ones (25 mm) so I don’t rub on the steering wheel getting in and out, and angled the ends at 45deg so they go a bit further forward so my short as missus can get the seat forward enough.

After making sure both my ESP’s original radios worked the way they should, I’ve never turned the on in the 16 odd years I’ve owned them.
they both make the only music I care about while driving them.😏

As said, for ESP only, without them the mechanism rubs on the bottom of the seat, I took mine out and made half height ones (25 mm) so I don’t rub on the steering wheel getting in and out, and angled the ends at 45deg so they go a bit further forward so my short as missus can get the seat forward enough.

After making sure both my ESP’s original radios worked the way they should, I’ve never turned the on in the 16 odd years I’ve owned them.
they both make the only music I care about while driving them.😏

You are probably are right, but I had one out of a xf that never liked going into first if the car was moving at all.
I did my first conversion about 18 years ago into a ZL and my second only 12 years ago, so remembering things are a bit foggy.😁

XF T5 won’t be world class, no synchro into first, and shorter first gear than the later boxes.
and not worth the effort with 2:77 diff, 3:23 would be minimum.

V8 T5 has the longer input shaft.
6cyl T5 is the one you need for any single rail or top loader bell housing.
input bearing retainer needs to be turned down a smidge to fit in the back of the bell housing.
I used a 3 speed V8 bell housing , redrilled top holes to bolt up the box and something similar for the two bottom holes.
been in the car for ten years, seems to be holding up fine, but then I don’t do epic skids.
and I have a couple of spares.

V8 T5 has the longer input shaft.
6cyl T5 is the one you need for any single rail or top loader bell housing.
input bearing retainer needs to be turned down a smidge to fit in the back of the bell housing.
I used a 3 speed V8 bell housing , redrilled top holes to bolt up the box and something similar for the two bottom holes.
been in the car for ten years, seems to be holding up fine, but then I don’t do epic skids.
and I have a couple of spares.

V8 T5 has the longer input shaft.
6cyl T5 is the one you need for any single rail or top loader bell housing.
input bearing retainer needs to be turned down a smidge to fit in the back of the bell housing.
I used a 3 speed V8 bell housing , redrilled top holes to bolt up the box and something similar for the two bottom holes.
been in the car for ten years, seems to be holding up fine, but then I don’t do epic skids.
and I have a couple of spares.

V8 T5 has the longer input shaft.
6cyl T5 is the one you need for any single rail or top loader bell housing.
input bearing retainer needs to be turned down a smidge to fit in the back of the bell housing.
I used a 3 speed V8 bell housing , redrilled top holes to bolt up the box and something similar for the two bottom holes.
been in the car for ten years, seems to be holding up fine, but then I don’t do epic skids.
and I have a couple of spares.

Au shifter is about 30 mm further back.

Au shifter is about 30 mm further back.

Best to rebuild all brake components, you might find that when you do the callipers and go to bleed the brakes, you push the master cyl pistons into the gunk build up and brakes will still drag.

The reflector coating is vacuum metalising, not chrome.

The reflector coating is vacuum metalising, not chrome.

DB1075GCT for fronts (if Girlock caliper), in standard Bendix. Swap GCT for HD for heavy duty.

DB1045GCT if it's got the PBR calipers.

DB1078GCT for the rears. Bendix only do the rears in GCT option.

I ran HD Bendix pads on the front of my FG when I got it, and found them to be rather dusty. Both my XFs have GCTs and pull up pretty comparably (minus the 30 years difference). GCTs are definitely less dusty than the HDs, and are also cheaper.

Maybe it’s the turbo hanging of the side of mine warming it up quicker.

Maybe it’s the turbo hanging of the side of mine warming it up quicker.

Maybe it’s the turbo hanging of the side of mine warming it up quicker.

Maybe it’s the turbo hanging of the side of mine warming it up quicker.

I always snip off the jiggle pin and just have the hole, and make sure it’s at the top, helps bleed the air out, and allows constant water flow so you don’t get spikes and troughs in the temp.
 

Different wattage globes can make them flash fast.

The battery side one can be done without removing the battery, but air box out on the other.
got to take front bar off to get headlights out.