blownxd393

Ok, I canned the idea as there are a only a couple of e85 servos around and the engine was for the street.

I think your quote is quite good Gerg.

Interesting reading.

Sort of on topic...X flow cyl head's DON'T flow well even when ported by the best compared to most V8 stuff. So we make our power and create a workable RPM band via camshaft,induction and exhaust. I know Craig Smith @ Vintage Racing Services doe's the same thing with his restricted engines and Windsors in general. The cam lies to the engine to tell it "hey look @ all this extra flow we got" thats lift and then they fit a awesome manifold carb combo and custom made killer pipes all to help the cyl heads out. 
 
I run what many consider to be waaaaaaaaay too big twin 2.5" exhaust on 250 cubes and it uses every bit of it. Has ITB realistically via 3x50mm webers and has modified extractors and a killer merge set up and it revs to 7500rpm. Stops making power by 6200-6400 but power doesn't fall off as abruptly as it would with out these mods so then it can use it's RPM better. Beats ALOT it faces @ the track and even ones that offer much more HP aswell.  
 
I know I'm not a V8 guy and I won't lie about what I do in my spare time but the above shop has shown me that even V8's suffer from deficiencies and limitations that can be over come in the same way.TBH I'm not totally convinced it hasn't got enough cyl head flow in it,maybe it could be cam shaft and exhaust related for this combo aswell ???  
 
Just saying...       

What does olive xm need btw xcsedan ? You almost stepped him up to pro stock with Kaase c400c's man 700-800+ lol ???
 
Lets not buck heads here Lets be realistic m8 iam not trying to compete with you. You need to put you feet back on the ground i think a bit. If ol mate wants this hp well he needs to say so and give a dollar value for the upgrade. Chi 2v heads to kaase is just rubbish talk. If he's considering some afd over chi big cfm heads he wants value not a top end race car engine with big cubes. Lets hear from him now.
 
No one has big bucks atm XC. Shit has hit the fan in oz. Not sure what industry you work in.

Ok thanks for your reply and the exhaust info.
 
What about the suggestion of having your chi 2vs heads ported ? Its alot cheaper. You can do those other checks requested before whilst at it ?
 
Also the AFD 4v-s heads will make 600hp with the right cam and comp without crazy parts. You will need to do some slight cleaning up here and there like i said before but what heads a this price dont. They are great value i think. My AFD 4v-s heads were ported by Dave and i have a custom low to mid 260s @ 50 650lift on 108lsa dailed on 106icl solid roller on T&ds and 12.3 comp, renagate top loader and 4.11 9". Food for thought for you.
 
Have a think about the porting idea anyway on the current chi 2v head.

The early afd heads were aussy cast. Ive used all the offshore 2v, 4vS and 4vR and still have my aussy cast 228 4v which are a nice peice.
 
Alot of scattered info above guys some true some not. What did you want to know ?
 
Also the rockers not lining up with the valve tip story, cut the guide plate and you can manipulate them till correct then spot weld, can be time consuming or just put some yt platunums on it or better T&Ds
 
On the offshore heads you will need to like most clearance tbe push rod bosses to run 3/8 or 7/16 push rods.
 
Cheers

I dont think its off track Gerg, the OP was asking about afd heads on the page prevous. I just offered my two cents on that subject to help out.
 
Now if the subject is falling over at 6k on std chi 2v heads and 393ci. What is the exhaust system specs and have the valve springs pressures been checked and what are the installed heights. Also what icl was this cam dialed in at. Cheers

A1000

A cast scat stroker kit will get you what you want and be reliable within magin.
Match it with some entry level flat top forged spr of probe slugs. I've always upgraded to the h beam but I've been advised this is not required as the std scat I beam is more than efficient for a lazy 500fwhp.
 
I prefer the 393 kits myself only for pin height reasons but nothing wrong with 408 kit plus the extra 15 ft lbs you will have.
 
A set of as cast chi 2v heads and an edelbrock air gap with a dual cam in the mid to high 240s will be a good start for scope with 6-650 lift on a 108-110 lsa. Should have heaps of vacume and balls of trq on the street.

Sorry if my comments are not welcome bear351.. or have I miss interpreted your cut and paste ?

Just to add,
 
As mentioned by Gerg above. the goal is to find a good block, condition wise. pretty hard these days as you will end up boring three blocks until you find a good one. all the others will need sleeves which i personally don't have a problem with even up to  580+hp if done correctly. but its a cost factor (and the correct tune of coarse) 
 
Now the Arrow has had some small minor glitches in past but they are developing,at the end of the day its a much better block to start with and work on than one that is 30+ yo. revised oil system,splayed 4 bolt caps all the way through. provision for dry sump injection for race guys and much better lifter bore configuration which let down the factory blocks 4.100"+ bore  capability for the guys chasing 427+ci
 
In WA you will spend 2k+ to professionally prep a cleveland block for 450+hp and your still stuck with a 30+ yo block. Why would you when an after marked block Arrow is under 3k or a dart shp 9.2 proven quality (windsor clevor style) is around 2k
 
Anyway i could talk Clevelands all day but that's my 2 cents worth as its been fairly quiet in Clevo town of late....
 
Scottly, 450-550hp pump fuel Clevelands are  very easy to build these days with off shelf parts and without using solid roller cams even. maybe start a new thread and we can all have a crack at giving our opinions on how to do it reliably to what ever your budget may be. don't get too strung up on the hp numbers. We just have so many options now days where passionate guys like myself spend all their money they have ever earned on them. Cleveland are just very hard on the back pocket for most but its a Cleveland and its worth it. 

Just to add,
 
As mentioned by Gerg above. the goal is to find a good block, condition wise. pretty hard these days as you will end up boring three blocks until you find a good one. all the others will need sleeves which i personally don't have a problem with even up to  580+hp if done correctly. but its a cost factor (and the correct tune of coarse) 
 
Now the Arrow has had some small minor glitches in past but they are developing,at the end of the day its a much better block to start with and work on than one that is 30+ yo. revised oil system,splayed 4 bolt caps all the way through. provision for dry sump injection for race guys and much better lifter bore configuration which let down the factory blocks 4.100"+ bore  capability for the guys chasing 427+ci
 
In WA you will spend 2k+ to professionally prep a cleveland block for 450+hp and your still stuck with a 30+ yo block. Why would you when an after marked block Arrow is under 3k or a dart shp 9.2 proven quality (windsor clevor style) is around 2k
 
Anyway i could talk Clevelands all day but that's my 2 cents worth as its been fairly quiet in Clevo town of late....
 
Scottly, 450-550hp pump fuel Clevelands are  very easy to build these days with off shelf parts and without using solid roller cams even. maybe start a new thread and we can all have a crack at giving our opinions on how to do it reliably to what ever your budget may be. don't get too strung up on the hp numbers. We just have so many options now days where passionate guys like myself spend all their money they have ever earned on them. Cleveland are just very hard on the back pocket for most but its a Cleveland and its worth it. 

Ok I will share my knowledge.
 
The strongest would be the simese bore nascar block. Very very rare. They would all be in the USA. Ive never seen one.
 
Next the nascar block none Siamese. If you have one and it has core shift (which is very common in Australia) just fit a sleeve and some grout. I will be fine.
 
A bad tune will kill any block especially with boost.
 
A lot of yank std block I've got have really clean inner bores. Due to. They use inhibitors for cold climates . In the early days hear ppl alway just ran water.
 
My next pic of the bunch would be an xd black block. And as mention check for core shift and rusty corrosion inside of the bores.
It needs to be free of scale and rust to do a proper sonic test and even that won't help with a porous pin hole which is common.
 
Please don't confuse the nascar block with a bubble block or aka pillow. Same pillows on the side, same as the xe nascar but no solid pan rails or bell crank.
 
Fyi. My current blown clevo is a nascar. My high boost clevo iam building now with a dart iron eagle 9.2 and solid chi heads.
My big bore Arrow is due in December...can't wait. See. How it goes as it will have over 800 n/a on scm heads.

Just to add,
 
As mentioned by Gerg above. the goal is to find a good block, condition wise. pretty hard these days as you will end up boring three blocks until you find a good one. all the others will need sleeves which i personally don't have a problem with even up to  580+hp if done correctly. but its a cost factor (and the correct tune of coarse) 
 
Now the Arrow has had some small minor glitches in past but they are developing,at the end of the day its a much better block to start with and work on than one that is 30+ yo. revised oil system,splayed 4 bolt caps all the way through. provision for dry sump injection for race guys and much better lifter bore configuration which let down the factory blocks 4.100"+ bore  capability for the guys chasing 427+ci
 
In WA you will spend 2k+ to professionally prep a cleveland block for 450+hp and your still stuck with a 30+ yo block. Why would you when an after marked block Arrow is under 3k or a dart shp 9.2 proven quality (windsor clevor style) is around 2k
 
Anyway i could talk Clevelands all day but that's my 2 cents worth as its been fairly quiet in Clevo town of late....
 
Scottly, 450-550hp pump fuel Clevelands are  very easy to build these days with off shelf parts and without using solid roller cams even. maybe start a new thread and we can all have a crack at giving our opinions on how to do it reliably to what ever your budget may be. don't get too strung up on the hp numbers. We just have so many options now days where passionate guys like myself spend all their money they have ever earned on them. Cleveland are just very hard on the back pocket for most but its a Cleveland and its worth it. 

Just to add,
 
As mentioned by Gerg above. the goal is to find a good block, condition wise. pretty hard these days as you will end up boring three blocks until you find a good one. all the others will need sleeves which i personally don't have a problem with even up to  580+hp if done correctly. but its a cost factor (and the correct tune of coarse) 
 
Now the Arrow has had some small minor glitches in past but they are developing,at the end of the day its a much better block to start with and work on than one that is 30+ yo. revised oil system,splayed 4 bolt caps all the way through. provision for dry sump injection for race guys and much better lifter bore configuration which let down the factory blocks 4.100"+ bore  capability for the guys chasing 427+ci
 
In WA you will spend 2k+ to professionally prep a cleveland block for 450+hp and your still stuck with a 30+ yo block. Why would you when an after marked block Arrow is under 3k or a dart shp 9.2 proven quality (windsor clevor style) is around 2k
 
Anyway i could talk Clevelands all day but that's my 2 cents worth as its been fairly quiet in Clevo town of late....
 
Scottly, 450-550hp pump fuel Clevelands are  very easy to build these days with off shelf parts and without using solid roller cams even. maybe start a new thread and we can all have a crack at giving our opinions on how to do it reliably to what ever your budget may be. don't get too strung up on the hp numbers. We just have so many options now days where passionate guys like myself spend all their money they have ever earned on them. Cleveland are just very hard on the back pocket for most but its a Cleveland and its worth it. 

Ok I will share my knowledge.
 
The strongest would be the simese bore nascar block. Very very rare. They would all be in the USA. Ive never seen one.
 
Next the nascar block none Siamese. If you have one and it has core shift (which is very common in Australia) just fit a sleeve and some grout. I will be fine.
 
A bad tune will kill any block especially with boost.
 
A lot of yank std block I've got have really clean inner bores. Due to. They use inhibitors for cold climates . In the early days hear ppl alway just ran water.
 
My next pic of the bunch would be an xd black block. And as mention check for core shift and rusty corrosion inside of the bores.
It needs to be free of scale and rust to do a proper sonic test and even that won't help with a porous pin hole which is common.
 
Please don't confuse the nascar block with a bubble block or aka pillow. Same pillows on the side, same as the xe nascar but no solid pan rails or bell crank.
 
Fyi. My current blown clevo is a nascar. My high boost clevo iam building now with a dart iron eagle 9.2 and solid chi heads.
My big bore Arrow is due in December...can't wait. See. How it goes as it will have over 800 n/a on scm heads.

Just to add,
 
As mentioned by Gerg above. the goal is to find a good block, condition wise. pretty hard these days as you will end up boring three blocks until you find a good one. all the others will need sleeves which i personally don't have a problem with even up to  580+hp if done correctly. but its a cost factor (and the correct tune of coarse) 
 
Now the Arrow has had some small minor glitches in past but they are developing,at the end of the day its a much better block to start with and work on than one that is 30+ yo. revised oil system,splayed 4 bolt caps all the way through. provision for dry sump injection for race guys and much better lifter bore configuration which let down the factory blocks 4.100"+ bore  capability for the guys chasing 427+ci
 
In WA you will spend 2k+ to professionally prep a cleveland block for 450+hp and your still stuck with a 30+ yo block. Why would you when an after marked block Arrow is under 3k or a dart shp 9.2 proven quality (windsor clevor style) is around 2k
 
Anyway i could talk Clevelands all day but that's my 2 cents worth as its been fairly quiet in Clevo town of late....
 
Scottly, 450-550hp pump fuel Clevelands are  very easy to build these days with off shelf parts and without using solid roller cams even. maybe start a new thread and we can all have a crack at giving our opinions on how to do it reliably to what ever your budget may be. don't get too strung up on the hp numbers. We just have so many options now days where passionate guys like myself spend all their money they have ever earned on them. Cleveland are just very hard on the back pocket for most but its a Cleveland and its worth it. 

Just to add,
 
As mentioned by Gerg above. the goal is to find a good block, condition wise. pretty hard these days as you will end up boring three blocks until you find a good one. all the others will need sleeves which i personally don't have a problem with even up to  580+hp if done correctly. but its a cost factor (and the correct tune of coarse) 
 
Now the Arrow has had some small minor glitches in past but they are developing,at the end of the day its a much better block to start with and work on than one that is 30+ yo. revised oil system,splayed 4 bolt caps all the way through. provision for dry sump injection for race guys and much better lifter bore configuration which let down the factory blocks 4.100"+ bore  capability for the guys chasing 427+ci
 
In WA you will spend 2k+ to professionally prep a cleveland block for 450+hp and your still stuck with a 30+ yo block. Why would you when an after marked block Arrow is under 3k or a dart shp 9.2 proven quality (windsor clevor style) is around 2k
 
Anyway i could talk Clevelands all day but that's my 2 cents worth as its been fairly quiet in Clevo town of late....
 
Scottly, 450-550hp pump fuel Clevelands are  very easy to build these days with off shelf parts and without using solid roller cams even. maybe start a new thread and we can all have a crack at giving our opinions on how to do it reliably to what ever your budget may be. don't get too strung up on the hp numbers. We just have so many options now days where passionate guys like myself spend all their money they have ever earned on them. Cleveland are just very hard on the back pocket for most but its a Cleveland and its worth it. 

Ok I will share my knowledge.
 
The strongest would be the simese bore nascar block. Very very rare. They would all be in the USA. Ive never seen one.
 
Next the nascar block none Siamese. If you have one and it has core shift (which is very common in Australia) just fit a sleeve and some grout. I will be fine.
 
A bad tune will kill any block especially with boost.
 
A lot of yank std block I've got have really clean inner bores. Due to. They use inhibitors for cold climates . In the early days hear ppl alway just ran water.
 
My next pic of the bunch would be an xd black block. And as mention check for core shift and rusty corrosion inside of the bores.
It needs to be free of scale and rust to do a proper sonic test and even that won't help with a porous pin hole which is common.
 
Please don't confuse the nascar block with a bubble block or aka pillow. Same pillows on the side, same as the xe nascar but no solid pan rails or bell crank.
 
Fyi. My current blown clevo is a nascar. My high boost clevo iam building now with a dart iron eagle 9.2 and solid chi heads.
My big bore Arrow is due in December...can't wait. See. How it goes as it will have over 800 n/a on scm heads.

I think contact camtech and tell them when you have correct lift at TDC your rods nearly contact the cam.  see what they say.  I prefer to dial the cam in for correct centreline rather than lift at tdc.  the ramp could be ground incorrectly and you wont get correct lift at TDC.  That is where centreline is more accurate as there should only be one 'top of the hill' i.e. centreline. 

Yeah you soon find out your not as quick as you first thought when you hit the strip.My old XD ESP on the street and hwy was insanely quick.Took it to Canberra for a there 1/8th mile races and got owned totally by a 265 Centura that looked like it was drug out of a paddock that day ! I soon realised my junk isn't fast
 
Back to current day it is all about been out there,talks cheap but racing is doing.You had fun and know you have something to compare ideas and notes too to work on.Doesn't get any better than that I reckon.

The 4v manifold on a 2v is an old school 80s trick iam lead to believe worth 30hp. For the life of me iam not sure how with the huge step.
 
Seen it a few times and even where ppl port blend them.
 
Now the good news for you is that if you sell it you may have some cash to fit an Edelbrock air gap ® with out being too out of pocket. (check the cast numbers and Google is your friend)

Take manifold off. Get a small hacksaw blade and cut down top and bottom the pick it out with a small seal pick.
 
Then clean out manifold and re-fit.
 
If its just a bunka engine , hack saw it whilst your buddy holds a vacume cleaner next to it to catch the crap as you saw it.

Take manifold off. Get a small hacksaw blade and cut down top and bottom the pick it out with a small seal pick.
 
Then clean out manifold and re-fit.
 
If its just a bunka engine , hack saw it whilst your buddy holds a vacume cleaner next to it to catch the crap as you saw it.