blownxd393

Olive, You would want more than 11.5 comp to have and benifit with e85 and your cam.

I think your quote is quite good Gerg.

Wow

What does olive xm need btw xcsedan ? You almost stepped him up to pro stock with Kaase c400c's man 700-800+ lol ??? Lets not buck heads here Lets be realistic m8 iam not trying to compete with you. You need to put you feet back on the ground i think a bit. If ol mate wants this hp well he needs to say so and give a dollar value for the upgrade. Chi 2v heads to kaase is just rubbish talk. If he's considering some afd over chi big cfm heads he wants value not a top end race car engine with big cubes. Lets hear from him now. No one has big bucks atm XC. Shit has hit the fan in oz. Not sure what industry you work in.

Ok thanks for your reply and the exhaust info. What about the suggestion of having your chi 2vs heads ported ? Its alot cheaper. You can do those other checks requested before whilst at it ? Also the AFD 4v-s heads will make 600hp with the right cam and comp without crazy parts. You will need to do some slight cleaning up here and there like i said before but what heads a this price dont. They are great value i think. My AFD 4v-s heads were ported by Dave and i have a custom low to mid 260s @ 50 650lift on 108lsa dailed on 106icl solid roller on T&ds and 12.3 comp, renagate top loader and 4.11 9". Food for thought for you. Have a think about the porting idea anyway on the current chi 2v head.

Olive xm, Please feel free to ask any questions on the afd heads. Like i said earlier i am no expert but have used all Daves heads inc the afd 2v heads. Ask away. My opinion will vary to others but thats just what you get on the net. Thanks Carl

Thanks for your replyolive xm. If its at all possible, Could you ask your builder what icl the cam was dialed in at. What is your exhaust specs if you dont mind sharing. Diff ratio and stall size. Are you happy with the performance with the tfc or disapointed ?

Your absolutly right Gerg. But we are talking chi 2v heads here not cast iron units. Revised combustion chambers, moved plug location and runner over the ssr but we still have a 2v archititure. Would be great to hear from the owner of the car with the above question. Not tring to steal your lunch btw. Id be suprized if Sean has had these chi heads on his bench but ive been wrong before.

This engine is making 400rwhp with 2v heads which would make me happy with such a basic combo. Has this car actually been down the drag strip ?

No issue thanks for that Gerg thats us sorted. Ok we have a few un answered questions here the op can help us out with if he has not already removed these heads. Please let me tell you iam no expert but just passionate on the subject. Also please excuse if i missed it previously but what is the static comp, stall and rear gear are we running in this car. Dont forget the exhaust specs and icl dial in info from memory. Thanks

I dont think its off track Gerg, the OP was asking about afd heads on the page prevous. I just offered my two cents on that subject to help out. Now if the subject is falling over at 6k on std chi 2v heads and 393ci. What is the exhaust system specs and have the valve springs pressures been checked and what are the installed heights. Also what icl was this cam dialed in at. Cheers

you explained that very well. your right about the epoxi. Ive done this to my set of 4v-R heads too. I have no issues with this personally but many do.

The early afd heads were aussy cast. Ive used all the offshore 2v, 4vS and 4vR and still have my aussy cast 228 4v which are a nice peice. Alot of scattered info above guys some true some not. What did you want to know ? Also the rockers not lining up with the valve tip story, cut the guide plate and you can manipulate them till correct then spot weld, can be time consuming or just put some yt platunums on it or better T&Ds On the offshore heads you will need to like most clearance tbe push rod bosses to run 3/8 or 7/16 push rods. Cheers

A1000

You must of scared him off Xc sedan ?

A cast scat stroker kit will get you what you want and be reliable within magin. Match it with some entry level flat top forged spr of probe slugs. I've always upgraded to the h beam but I've been advised this is not required as the std scat I beam is more than efficient for a lazy 500fwhp. I prefer the 393 kits myself only for pin height reasons but nothing wrong with 408 kit plus the extra 15 ft lbs you will have. A set of as cast chi 2v heads and an edelbrock air gap with a dual cam in the mid to high 240s will be a good start for scope with 6-650 lift on a 108-110 lsa. Should have heaps of vacume and balls of trq on the street.

OK Great ! Now ... i just sounded like a (bell end) getting all defensive lol

Sorry if my comments are not welcome bear351.. or have I miss interpreted your cut and paste ?

Just to add, As mentioned by Gerg above. the goal is to find a good block, condition wise. pretty hard these days as you will end up boring three blocks until you find a good one. all the others will need sleeves which i personally don't have a problem with even up to 580+hp if done correctly. but its a cost factor (and the correct tune of coarse) Now the Arrow has had some small minor glitches in past but they are developing,at the end of the day its a much better block to start with and work on than one that is 30+ yo. revised oil system,splayed 4 bolt caps all the way through. provision for dry sump injection for race guys and much better lifter bore configuration which let down the factory blocks 4.100"+ bore capability for the guys chasing 427+ci In WA you will spend 2k+ to professionally prep a cleveland block for 450+hp and your still stuck with a 30+ yo block. Why would you when an after marked block Arrow is under 3k or a dart shp 9.2 proven quality (windsor clevor style) is around 2k Anyway i could talk Clevelands all day but that's my 2 cents worth as its been fairly quiet in Clevo town of late.... Scottly, 450-550hp pump fuel Clevelands are very easy to build these days with off shelf parts and without using solid roller cams even. maybe start a new thread and we can all have a crack at giving our opinions on how to do it reliably to what ever your budget may be. don't get too strung up on the hp numbers. We just have so many options now days where passionate guys like myself spend all their money they have ever earned on them. Cleveland are just very hard on the back pocket for most but its a Cleveland and its worth it.

Ok I will share my knowledge. The strongest would be the simese bore nascar block. Very very rare. They would all be in the USA. Ive never seen one. Next the nascar block none Siamese. If you have one and it has core shift (which is very common in Australia) just fit a sleeve and some grout. I will be fine. A bad tune will kill any block especially with boost. A lot of yank std block I've got have really clean inner bores. Due to. They use inhibitors for cold climates . In the early days hear ppl alway just ran water. My next pic of the bunch would be an xd black block. And as mention check for core shift and rusty corrosion inside of the bores. It needs to be free of scale and rust to do a proper sonic test and even that won't help with a porous pin hole which is common. Please don't confuse the nascar block with a bubble block or aka pillow. Same pillows on the side, same as the xe nascar but no solid pan rails or bell crank. Fyi. My current blown clevo is a nascar. My high boost clevo iam building now with a dart iron eagle 9.2 and solid chi heads. My big bore Arrow is due in December...can't wait. See. How it goes as it will have over 800 n/a on scm heads.

Ok thanks. I cant see it on that angle. Are you saying the crowns are too thin ? Were they machined down. Did this engine show any other signes of overheating ?

Hey sly, What's the problem in that photo ?

What did you do offset the 351 crank too ? If its just a std 3.5" crank well its not a 383ci. Only way possible for 383ci with 3.5 stroke is with a dart or arrow block with a big bore at 4.170 which in your case you say its been done for years, as mentioned by another member on here it doesnt matter what rod or pistion length or comp height you have it won't change the cid. Only stroke and bore side changes things. Hope that clears it up. Sorry to say mate but all that has been happening is your boss has been bluffing yourself.

How does changing rods length give you more ci ? Or is this just something you would just bluff your mate's with ?

Yeah iam on the same page. Performer it is.