XFute-1JZsoarer

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Spray it

I'd say it's most certainly the plenum, my XF ute was the same, and when you looked in through the top of the plenum, you couldn't see any rust at all.
But when I took the dash and steering column out, I found that the issue was around the drivers side vent...

 
As you can see, some knuckle head just filled it full of silicon instead of actually fixing it properly.
But I have only had this and some rust pitting on the floor from the water getting in, other than that there's no rust anywhere else, so been pretty lucky still.
 
Hope this is some help.
 
Jay.

Hey Binary, are you still chasing up pics for this manual conversion, i may be able to help you out a little, as I've been converting my 250ci, column auto XF ute to 4L and T5, and it would be more or less the exact same deal as what your trying to achieve.
Let me know if I can be of any assistance mate.
 
Jay.

Hey Binary, are you still chasing up pics for this manual conversion, i may be able to help you out a little, as I've been converting my 250ci, column auto XF ute to 4L and T5, and it would be more or less the exact same deal as what your trying to achieve.
Let me know if I can be of any assistance mate.
 
Jay.

XF dash, or XF cluster?
 
I like the XF dash, hate the stock cluster though.

That's exactly it, Polson helped me out with this info when I pulled mine out, he certainly knows what he's talking about.
I recommend taking his info anyday!
I should have some pics for you to check out sometime during the day...

Entire dash as a whole is easy, screws under the windscreen (behind black trim), unbolt steering column, bolt at each side of dash behind kickpanels, and I think two in the middle under the center section on the trans tunnel.

Lol, that should work well mate.
I'll finish the repair to the vent and start putting the dash in tomorrow mate, that way you can get stuck in.
I'll put it up on this thread as it looks as though it'll help out a few others.
It's the least I can do, considering all the help I've got from this forum myself...
 
Jay.

If I read your install thread backwards it should be like instructions for removal haha 

If it's a XF or earlier you can probably rig the ignition up to start it (run a wire from battery positive to the coil positive, then arc the starter motor with a screwdriver to kick it over) put the column back in after you pull the dash and use the key to unlock the steering and you should be right.
If it's a XG or XH, you'll be shit outta luck mate...
It's a simple job to get it out, why not leave it where it lives on the street and pull the dash out? All the vents stay connected to the heater box, so they can stay in with it, but it might pay to pull the box out, so you can check the passenger vent also.
I'll be putting the dash in over the next day or 2, so just check my thread for the installation process if you'd like.
I've already swapped the heater box to the XG one, but that's an easier job to do than the dash in my opinion.

If it's a XF or earlier you can probably rig the ignition up to start it (run a wire from battery positive to the coil positive, then arc the starter motor with a screwdriver to kick it over) put the column back in after you pull the dash and use the key to unlock the steering and you should be right.
If it's a XG or XH, you'll be shit outta luck mate...
It's a simple job to get it out, why not leave it where it lives on the street and pull the dash out? All the vents stay connected to the heater box, so they can stay in with it, but it might pay to pull the box out, so you can check the passenger vent also.
I'll be putting the dash in over the next day or 2, so just check my thread for the installation process if you'd like.
I've already swapped the heater box to the XG one, but that's an easier job to do than the dash in my opinion.

would say with 99% confidence your plenum chamber area has rusted threw

No Wucking Furries , my pleasure. Good to see it ll coming together in ya build thread.
 
Jack.

Thanks Jack, that's a pretty detailed installation post you put up, great help mate.
I'm using the Bosch dizzy that was in the motor, as it only has 168,000km on it and looks to be in good condition still.
The previous owner pulled it out to put it in another motor and gave up when it became apparent that he didn't know what he was doing.
So he put it back in the hole to plug the hole up, but never installed it properly.
I might put an order in for a new Bosch dizzy to keep as a spare if this one claps out, should be easy to swap over once I've put one in myself.
Appreciate you taking the time to help mate.
Thanks heaps.
 
Jay.

Here ya go mate, in me rebuild thread there is a good explanation.
http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2502-outback-jacks-xg-outback-ute-build/
 
The picture of the dizzy is pretty much where the dizzy and module will sit once inserted properly. I did mine a lil while back, chucked in a new module and dizzy.
Bosch of course. I f ya notice ya have a cheap arse dizzy....... ditch it and get a bosch one.... heaps better.
Best of luck.
 
Jack.

Cool dizzy, good to hear. Yeah I learnt the hard way on another car, had my dizzy 'regraphed' once in Perth. 2 days later the motor was rooted, chewed all the drive up and spat it into the sump. Was a costly excercise.
 
Oh, xfute. Make sure ya on TDC, on the compression stroke (rocker arms both on the rock) if it's been out before ya got it.
Then get ya dizzy, set the dizzy rotor to start in dizzy and as ya drop it in, as the gears will make it spin to finish because they are cut on an angle.
You also can't do the base timing after without putting the ECU into base timing mode, if you try it will always be out.
 
Jack.

outback jack. yes i was going to save for the aussiespeed one. since standard ford ones dont fit under their manifold. but had not had any issues with the dizzy i have. this is why i was saying get them done properly. and pointed out a dude that knew how to do it properly. was not stating that it was just a easy turn of the gear and your done.
and now i have been running it for a while. and no shavings or anything so far.
xfute. i do not know with that start to finish stuff. seen it on a couple dizzy's. i just put it on tdc and have the rotor button pointing to no 1 spark lead. no issues

You reckon 30mm is too short mate?Because I had about 40-50mm of adjustment left on the bracket before I pulled the alternator out, and 5-10mm doesn't seem like it'll be enough to give me some decent clearance, if any at all...
The local Repco fellas are a pretty good bunch here (kinda have to be when there's 2 auto parts stores in such a little town), I reckon they'd let me exchange the belt (if it won't fit) to another more suitable one.
I might try get the belt this arvo, but I'm going for a 1.5 hour drive (3 hours there and back) to go get the last couple of bits out of my XG today. So I'll finally have everything I need to finish the conversion.
If I manage to grab it today, I'll post up pics of the results tonight.

1. Avoid having extra flange joints pre turbine... so no gate adapter plates.
2. Reallistically u should have the gate either off both branches, if a log manifold, one off to the side is fine. The turbine option is ok, just ensure its welded right.
 
lol at the pissing contest though..

That's a good cast unit but most do it like this
 

Fan belts are easy.......
 
V belt size example : 11A1050 is 11mm wide by 1050mm long, 13A0855 is 13mm wide by 855mm long.
Serpentine    "         : 5PK2350 is 5 grooves across by 2350mm long.
 
Cut your old belt and get length with tape measure, minus 20mm or whatever. All belts run on the sides of the 'vee'.
Most Auto shops have a belt measurement device, if you take yours in.
 

Had a look at belts today, the alternator, waterpump and crank belt on the XG 4L is a Bosch 3PK895, so 895mm long.
I found that Bosch also make a 3PK865 (30mm shorter), so I'm going to grab one as soon as I can and give it a shot.
I'll post how it goes, as it might be a neater solution for others that wind up in the same position.
Thanks for the help with it fellas.

Had a look at belts today, the alternator, waterpump and crank belt on the XG 4L is a Bosch 3PK895, so 895mm long.
I found that Bosch also make a 3PK865 (30mm shorter), so I'm going to grab one as soon as I can and give it a shot.
I'll post how it goes, as it might be a neater solution for others that wind up in the same position.
Thanks for the help with it fellas.

Arent XF and XG front chassis rails the same? If so it's all in the mounts. Did you use XG bases and the XG mount arms that connect to the motor? or just the bases?
Pity ya not in WA, I got a spare XG ute out back with easily visible mounts. I will try get some pics but my legs in a cast, so may have to wait till me crutches arrive.
 
Jack.