Gaz

Should have grabbed the vins they came out of. Ford used to decode over the phone for free but I heard they stopped doing it. I had to get the code for a Hyundai once and it cost the customer $50 for a phone call.

Should have grabbed the vins they came out of. Ford used to decode over the phone for free but I heard they stopped doing it. I had to get the code for a Hyundai once and it cost the customer $50 for a phone call.

Should have grabbed the vins they came out of. Ford used to decode over the phone for free but I heard they stopped doing it. I had to get the code for a Hyundai once and it cost the customer $50 for a phone call.

Caps are cold-bonded to the carcass, whereas remoulds are done in a similar process to new tyres. They can even use a copy of an existing mould for a new tyre.
 
I'm a truck mechanic and have seen a lot of caps and no failures on-road, only maybe one or two bubbling up on initial inflation (manufacturing fault).

Nothing wrong with caps, ask any truck owner. I've used plenty of recaps over the last 35 years and NEVER had a problem. Only use them on the back and you can't go wrong.

Nothing wrong with caps, ask any truck owner. I've used plenty of recaps over the last 35 years and NEVER had a problem. Only use them on the back and you can't go wrong.

Did you set both engines on TDC before removing the head?

theres not enough info to realy help. if you have set the engine on tdc and cable tied the chain to the gear if it does not line up you know its the head and just turn the cam till its in the right spot and refit if you have not done that you will have to line the chain up with the engine on tdc and try again

They are both drive plate to crank bolts. Not converter to drive plate.
The 440 Source ones are really short.
 
Converter bolts are smaller, maybe 3/8 unf?

Yes. You must run a thermostat, and the brass restrictor plate (under that). Coolant runs too fast through the radiator, and doesn't have time to cool down. The thermostat isn't there for the heater, it's to warm up the block to operating temperature. Opposite to that is running too cold, makes the oil sludgy.
 
Ignition timing may be the issue, as pro250 stated.

The trick is finding the lowest impedance your sub(s) can be wired down to, and then using an amp that is stable at that impedance.
Your not actually making better bass at low impedance, your just allowing the amps to flow power with the least resistance.
Class D monoblock amps are great at handling low impedance, as that is what they are primarily designed for.
Almost every class D mono will handle a 2ohm load easily, and others can go down to 1ohm (or even 0.5ohm like mine).
A little off subject...
When looking at amps to suit your setup, be wary of the usual BS sales tricks a lot of company's use. Some company's will say an amp might make 1500wrms, but fail to tell you that this rating was made at 16 or even 18 volts for a couple of seconds before it blew up, not at the 13.8v most charging systems make.
And always look at the fusing for the amp to get a good idea of what power it'll really make, a 2500wrms amp won't make that power with 60A fuse, the rule of thumb is 10A to 100wrms (though some company's now use larger fuses to fool consumers too these days).
Any decent amp will come with a "birth sheet" that will show the power it makes at different voltages and impedances).
But none of it will matter if your running an inadequate charging system, big power audio means big power charging systems, this is a trap most beginners fall into (I did too).
A 100 amp alternator and a normal battery will not support 1000wrms setup, and the rest of the vehicles ancillaries.
It's all a balancing act with a lot of ways to screw up, but if you know about it, you can put together a decent setup that won't cook/blow itself, or leave you stranded with a busted alternator/battery.
Hope this helps a bit, as I have been in this same boat myself.

Ohms are simply a measurement of resistance. Their fuction? Got me fuct.

Ohms are simply a measurement of resistance. Their fuction? Got me fuct.

Only column manual Steve. All other options are ok with p/s

My record. I'm sure someone would have shaved a minute off that time somewhere along the line.
1986, so 28 years.  Between 2 of us we were doing between 10 and 15 cars a day flat out for about 2 months when Power Steering became std equipment and Ford dealers couldn't sell manual steer floor stock.

Only column manual Steve. All other options are ok with p/s

My record is 27 minutes.
(Using all new parts on a brand new car.) 

My record is 27 minutes.
(Using all new parts on a brand new car.) 

Au is totally different to E-series. Sensors are all the same.

Au is totally different to E-series. Sensors are all the same.

Never understood why Ford changed the model name when it was just a different converter. There probably is some piss-ant internal difference but that's a question for Gregaust.

Never understood why Ford changed the model name when it was just a different converter. There probably is some piss-ant internal difference but that's a question for Gregaust.

i suspect your IAC is not working. unplug it and see if it makes any difference.
 
not sure about the AU, but on the EF the IAC shares the 12v feed with the injectors. given the gas system cuts this to turn off the injectors, the 12v feed to the IAC is cut and fed from elsewhere. you may need to trace the wiring for this.

Fuckin hell, my first car was an XL falcon with drums all round and a leaky rear wheel cylinder. I'd top the master up with auto trans fluid because you couldn't buy brake fluid in a 4 litre container in 1980. Never had a problem except the right rear would lock up when I even thought about touching the brake pedal. The moral of the story? Draw your own conclusions!

Fuckin hell, my first car was an XL falcon with drums all round and a leaky rear wheel cylinder. I'd top the master up with auto trans fluid because you couldn't buy brake fluid in a 4 litre container in 1980. Never had a problem except the right rear would lock up when I even thought about touching the brake pedal. The moral of the story? Draw your own conclusions!

Fuckin hell, my first car was an XL falcon with drums all round and a leaky rear wheel cylinder. I'd top the master up with auto trans fluid because you couldn't buy brake fluid in a 4 litre container in 1980. Never had a problem except the right rear would lock up when I even thought about touching the brake pedal. The moral of the story? Draw your own conclusions!