eattsie9

awesome, thats pretty bloody good fuel economy for a xflow
 
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For a stock 250 (larger valves, extractors, 2.5" straight through) I ran 28* locked timing through street fire cdi, superconductor msd leads, msd blaster 3 coil and TFI dizzy with module.
Ran AFR about 14.3:1 through the standard webber.
Ran very well started as soon as I turned the key (AU Starter, 0GA Earth for Engine and Battery, 575cca Battery) and felt more responsive and felt it had more torque through the rev range, also returned 500km to 57 litre tank for town driving with 3.27 rear gears and c4.

Wayne is a good bloke, I would suggest going to him as well. I'm about to do some trickflow heads and manifold for his Windsor, will be an animal with 14 to 1 comp e85 600 thou lift screamer.

One thing my dad used to say was"what's a good way to make a small fortune motor racing???? Start with a large one"

Here is my youngest boy, he looses his mind everytime there is a race car in the workshop LOL. He knows all the blokes names as well and everytime the phone rings he says "is that Wombat or Wolfy or Corky?" "Are they bringing the race car over?" He can't get enough I have to drive him around in the front yard in them HAHAHA

Tony that would be great, I know nothing about suspension setup, tyre pressures etc etc. will shoot you a PM later today mate.
The injected guys that said it couldn't be done don't talk to me anymore hahahaha

You didnt watch the vids i posted ? No start retard,no low timing setting it just works.That ignition is TFI dizzy and a 6AL2 Non programmable HVC coil...starts drives fine.That said the ultimate is a fully mappable system that is tuned on a dyno (thats not included in the price LOL) not in the driveway but as stated before,mine had one and now it doesn't and as other's have stated who have installed the TFI set up it works fine in everyday life.Thats why the world has no hot rodders any more people expect to have a car that runs like stock yet goe's like and V8 supercar?It's all about concession's...
 
On what yours is going to look like I wouldn't bother as there will be no real gain TBH unless you want to run on 91 octane fuel and big compression so you can work the timing map.But what do I know only having done all of them ignitions before and finding the current to work best?But really it's all piss and wind until a engine is built anyway.So I'd worry about all that first or this thread will be 8 pages long then you will reply with ...sorry guys it looked like too much work and too dear so I bought a XR6 turbo.Seen it too many times before...LOL
 
Good luck with what ever you sort out bud...

This might be a silly question...but what would happen if I ran the est dizzy and ignition on a worked motor?
All this ignition stuff seems to be getting a bit out of control...
I have the two most expensive hobbies, cars and music haha

Ok some teminology:
 
• Advertised duration - the actual length of time (in crank degrees) the cam lobe raises the lifter off the base circle. It is for reference only, and is not the hard-and-fast rule for determining a cam's characteristics.
 
• Duration at 0.050" - the one you should really look at. It's measured when the valve is actually off its seat by 0.050", which is the industry-accepted standard at which air flow is enough to be measurable for this purpose. It also allows for all flex and clearance in the valve train to be taken up so you're actually measuring the end result.
 
• Lift - how far the valve is lifted off its seat. A general rule for crossies and Clevos, anything much over 0.500" lift needs roller rockers and good valvesprings/retainers. If you go heavier with valvesprings, then your flat tappet cam and lifters will wear out more quickly. This is why we say plan your engine well from the start so you don't build it twice.
 
• Overlap - on an engine with good breathing ability (ie bigger carb and extractors) there is more scope for the cylinder to be "scavenged" by using the inertia of the exhaust gas rushing out to create a vacuum in the cylinder to pull in more inlet air/fuel. This happens when both valves are slightly open at the same time, due to a longer duration of each cam lobe. This is called "valve overlap". It is most beneficial at higher rpm when there is less time for things to happen. A larger overlap at lower rpm gives over-scavenging, where under load, inlet charge can be pulled straight out the exhaust, unburnt. Also kills idle vacuum because exhaust gas is being sucked back in to the inlet manifold with both valves being open for so long. So less overlap = more tame street manners
 
• Lobe Separation Angle - drawing an imaginary line at the halfway point of each lobe, and measuring the included angle of these lines between inlet and exhaust gives you this number. It can alter the "personality" of your engine as much as any other aspect. For a given duration, a narrow angle gives a lopey idle and narrow rpm band, lots of overlap, is more "racey". Needs more compression as some cylinder pressure is bled off. A wider angle gives more sedate low-rpm behaviour and a wider torque curve, but needs less compression as cylinder pressure is higher (less bleed-off). A narrow LSA would be 106 deg, a wide one would be 112 deg. This is not necessarily a way of determining overlap but is an indication of where the "meat" of the valve openings occur.
 
• Advance/Retard - adjustable via multiple keyways on your cam sprocket, this aspect will raise or lower the rpm at which your cam will work in its optimum torque band. Advancing brings it on earlier, retarding brings it later. Sprockets are mostly made with +4, 0 and -4 deg keyways. Most cams should be installed "straight up" (0 deg) unless you're looking for a particular characteristic not available with any other choice in cam profile. They've done the homework for you so it's best go with their advice.
 
• Hydraulic/solid - cams are ground with different lobe shapes. Solids have a gentler ramp up than hydraulics to ease the shock on the other components. Hyd/solid cams are not interchangeable.
 
• Flat tappet - not quite flat but the lobes are actually ground with a slight (2.5 deg) taper to match the convex shape on the lifter face. The lobes also don't sit square to the lifter bores, but rather to one side. All this is to ensure that the lifter rotates, and so it and the lobe get even wear throughout their lives. Cams are made from heat-treated iron. Always use high-zinc engine oil with flat-tappet cams. They took a lot of zinc out of engine oils as it damages cats over time. You can get additives instead
 
• Roller cams - sit square in the lifter bore to line up with the roller on the lifter. Made from billet heat-treated steel. Lots of OEM manufacturers went with them since unleaded came about, not because of their "high performance" image, but because oils can no longer have the required additives that they used to have to prevent wear on high pressure areas like with flat-tappet cams/lifters.

wow thats awesome, go the crossy

Let us know if you need help choosing jets, etc. Just fitted a 650 vac to my 302 and I'm in the zone you see.

yeahg i got 20x9S for my xe ,trying them on in a few weeks tell ya how i go

No real one is better as there basically the same bar rear main seals...If looking for future power up's and a better crank like the EF 12 counterweight unit the 86 DA block is the boss cocky cos it is a straight drop in fit.The down side to the later xflow blocks is the misalignment issues with the dizzy when using a aftermarket camshaft as you "must use a hardened dizzy gear".To find out what you have look on the rear passenger side of your engine for a coding just below the head to find maybe 84DA or such
 
The head is purpose dependent.So if you want alot of comp and a small chamber use a C2 if you want a turbo set up use a E head and for the in between use a C1.I use a C1A in mine cos it was a better start for my combo as it needed material removed to lower comp but left us with a really nice chamber.The C2 would have taken ALOT longer to get right.To find which head you have is look on the front passenger side in between 1-2 inlets and a code "may" be there like  E1 or C1,C2 or maybe D.If nothign is there remove the rocker cover and on top of the vally in the head you will find a HF code...maybe HF7 or such.
 
That said a I liked the old HF3 head that was on my old engine as well.    

Mcfly I will be doing exactly that in a couple of weeks when my flow bench is completed, also I will test and document every crossflow head in standard form giving valve sizes, chamber sizes and flow figures, the port castings are slightly different in the different heads so I'm interested which ones perform the best then I can get into mods I do and show the gains.

Thanks for all of the shared knowledge fellas, I think we can all learn something from everyone's different opinions. Don't be sorry for getting into technical info or going off the thread topic,
I'm only too happy to learn and hopefully someone else can get some good tips from the discussion also:)

Both have good info though guys so I don't think anyone will complain...

General port work like mentioned above can make good gains, BUT if you bolt a stock intake and exhaust manifold to it you will not see the full gains. Port wall texture helps atomization, valve seat form is the biggest influence on low lift performance, you can only increase port velocity by decreasing the size of the port, to make a port work at it's best the minimum cross sectional area of the port has to match the cam and intended rpm range, the mcsa has to be far enough away from the short turn to allow sufficient time to slow the airspeed down at the short turn to allow it to turn the corner and not just tumble off the edge and crash into the opposite port wall, nearly every port has high and low airspeed sections, you want to fill in areas of low speed and remove material in high speeds, this is just a generalization as it is more technical than that, you have to work with we're the air naturally wants to flow in a port, to increase swirl normally means biassing a port to one side and create what is like a drain plug effect around the valve, after all this the most important thing is to match the cam to the flow figures of the head, there is no point in having 600 thou of lift if the port chokes at 500thou, there is no point in having a head that outflows the intake manifold also, so all these things need to be matched to get the most effective and efficient combination.

all engines are basicley the same and work in the same way
 
crossys are just the better engine

If you want a good engine combo ask here. I did and with the help of members, my setup is going to far exceed what I was thinking I could achieve. No bullshit this would have to be the most helpful and friendly car forum I have used and there have been a few.