Crazy2287

Crazy thought. But seriously, bin the ECU and put an aftermarket one in. No one will ever know unless you tell them. 
By now it probably would have been cheaper than all the fucking around these 'mechanics' seem to be doing. 

If you want my opinion (Hahah, Good one.) wihout reading the whole thread.

If you want EFI.
Fucking put it on. 
There is little to nil excuse for using throttle body injection of aftermarket "Bolt on" self learning systems when proper EFi installations can be adapted and used so easily with much better results.

If you want to keep a "carb" manifold and look. Just leave the fkn carby on it..

If you want my opinion (Hahah, Good one.) wihout reading the whole thread.

If you want EFI.
Fucking put it on. 
There is little to nil excuse for using throttle body injection of aftermarket "Bolt on" self learning systems when proper EFi installations can be adapted and used so easily with much better results.

If you want to keep a "carb" manifold and look. Just leave the fkn carby on it..

If you want my opinion (Hahah, Good one.) wihout reading the whole thread.

If you want EFI.
Fucking put it on. 
There is little to nil excuse for using throttle body injection of aftermarket "Bolt on" self learning systems when proper EFi installations can be adapted and used so easily with much better results.

If you want to keep a "carb" manifold and look. Just leave the fkn carby on it..

If you want my opinion (Hahah, Good one.) wihout reading the whole thread.

If you want EFI.
Fucking put it on. 
There is little to nil excuse for using throttle body injection of aftermarket "Bolt on" self learning systems when proper EFi installations can be adapted and used so easily with much better results.

If you want to keep a "carb" manifold and look. Just leave the fkn carby on it..

It is unlikely that it will be the fuel pressure regulator. It's government over your fuel ratio is about 3% error. Unless the fuel pressure regulator is blocked then you will have no fuel returning to the tank. 
You can check this by either teeing in a pressure sender somewhere between the fuel rail and the pump and checking for 40-42 with eng running or 44psi with no manifold vac (eng not running or manifold ref line disconnected.) 
Or, a less perferred method, disconnect the return line and put it into a 2 litre bottle. measure how long it takes for the bottle to fill up when the fuel pump is running. 
The second option will also be reliant on the battery voltage, fuel pump and your fuel filter been in good condition, if they are not, it will give you a false reading.
 
Edit: also, if your exhaust temp is stuffing your starter motor, make sure you have enough timing. It's not uncommon for me to wind 16deg (+6 from stock) advance on the dizzy on a stock crossy.

Okay so i had to go wayyyyyyyy back to 2006 to get this data. This if from when i mapped my stock sensor for calibration within my MS1 ECU. so this "Should" be the data for the stock x-fal temp sender.
Bucket of ice water, Room temp, and boiling water. Resistance in Ohm. 
Input Data    
; Temp, degC     Resistance
;           0.5           86650
;            19           26000
;          99.8            2130
You're welcome.

It's important to note that you can't simply test the sensors, you must also test if the ECU is supplying the sensors with the correct voltages. Also check the sensors all have good earths. For example, a bad engine earth will take out multiple engine sensors. and a bad ECU earth will potentially take out all of them.
 

Okay so i had to go wayyyyyyyy back to 2006 to get this data. This if from when i mapped my stock sensor for calibration within my MS1 ECU. so this "Should" be the data for the stock x-fal temp sender.
Bucket of ice water, Room temp, and boiling water. Resistance in Ohm. 
Input Data    
; Temp, degC     Resistance
;           0.5           86650
;            19           26000
;          99.8            2130
You're welcome.

It's important to note that you can't simply test the sensors, you must also test if the ECU is supplying the sensors with the correct voltages. Also check the sensors all have good earths. For example, a bad engine earth will take out multiple engine sensors. and a bad ECU earth will potentially take out all of them.
 

Okay so i had to go wayyyyyyyy back to 2006 to get this data. This if from when i mapped my stock sensor for calibration within my MS1 ECU. so this "Should" be the data for the stock x-fal temp sender.
Bucket of ice water, Room temp, and boiling water. Resistance in Ohm. 
Input Data    
; Temp, degC     Resistance
;           0.5           86650
;            19           26000
;          99.8            2130
You're welcome.

It's important to note that you can't simply test the sensors, you must also test if the ECU is supplying the sensors with the correct voltages. Also check the sensors all have good earths. For example, a bad engine earth will take out multiple engine sensors. and a bad ECU earth will potentially take out all of them.
 

Okay so i had to go wayyyyyyyy back to 2006 to get this data. This if from when i mapped my stock sensor for calibration within my MS1 ECU. so this "Should" be the data for the stock x-fal temp sender.
Bucket of ice water, Room temp, and boiling water. Resistance in Ohm. 
Input Data    
; Temp, degC     Resistance
;           0.5           86650
;            19           26000
;          99.8            2130
You're welcome.

It's important to note that you can't simply test the sensors, you must also test if the ECU is supplying the sensors with the correct voltages. Also check the sensors all have good earths. For example, a bad engine earth will take out multiple engine sensors. and a bad ECU earth will potentially take out all of them.
 

The bosch temp senders are about $20...
I'd replace it and see. There's hardly any electronics in those engine bays.
 

If you do disconnect the afm and it makes no difference to how it idels/revs, then I would start there. Should have a 5v, earth, signal from r the afm and 2 other wres that are air temp sensor. From memory... It's been a while.

Also, check water temp sensor, its the 3 wire one that feeds the ECU. NOT the single wire one in the front of the head.
I've Had one of them shit itself before and it caused the exact symptoms you described. 
It can be tested by checking it's range using a multimeter set to resistence and putting it boiling and ice water and recording that result.l and comparing to known values. I should still have the values recorded somewhere from mine if you get that far.

Protip, fuck the clutch fork off and go CSC.

Protip, fuck the clutch fork off and go CSC.

Got this mostly sussed out now. Using an emitter follower amp with discreet components and a 33-240ohm sender as they seem to be most common on eBay. Going to bypass the added complexity of inverting the signal by mounting the float arm backwards (essentially operating the reostat/sender upside down)
The downside is if the sender brakes the gauge will read full. 
Will do a walkthrough once It's complete but I was prototyping the circuit last night and it was working. Uses a 9v supply chip, 2 bjt transistors, 1 pot and 4-5 resistors so it will be well under 10 dollars doos. 

What I'm saying is. You have the option where you could cut the flexible portion of your line Flair it in 37 degree jic and adapt PTFE braided line to the back of the pump. Might end up cheaper than buying one or two swagelok fittings.

If it is a sticky injector then only a single cylinder will be over fueling,simple check of the spark plugs will show if something is wrong in this manner. If all spark plugs are identical, it will be issue caused by control.
 

When my temperature sensor shut itself I took it to 3 mechanics before one of them was switched on enough to replace the coolant temp sensor and fix the car. This was back in the day when I was a young fella and had no idea what I was doing.

Also, check water temp sensor, its the 3 wire one that feeds the ECU. NOT the single wire one in the front of the head.
I've Had one of them shit itself before and it caused the exact symptoms you described. 
It can be tested by checking it's range using a multimeter set to resistence and putting it boiling and ice water and recording that result.l and comparing to known values. I should still have the values recorded somewhere from mine if you get that far.

If you do disconnect the afm and it makes no difference to how it idels/revs, then I would start there. Should have a 5v, earth, signal from r the afm and 2 other wres that are air temp sensor. From memory... It's been a while.

If you do disconnect the afm and it makes no difference to how it idels/revs, then I would start there. Should have a 5v, earth, signal from r the afm and 2 other wres that are air temp sensor. From memory... It's been a while.

Always degree in the cam.
And it does not matter so much what wheel you use, as long as your reference/zero point does not change during the measurements.

I print my own degree wheels onto A4 paper, cut it out and laminate it. You cna have it any size, But remember a larger wheel, will increase the accuracy of your measurements, It is hard to discern 1 degree on a 3 inch wheel. But on a 30 inch wheel you can degree to seconds of a degree with ease.

Always degree in the cam.
And it does not matter so much what wheel you use, as long as your reference/zero point does not change during the measurements.

I print my own degree wheels onto A4 paper, cut it out and laminate it. You cna have it any size, But remember a larger wheel, will increase the accuracy of your measurements, It is hard to discern 1 degree on a 3 inch wheel. But on a 30 inch wheel you can degree to seconds of a degree with ease.

Always degree in the cam.
And it does not matter so much what wheel you use, as long as your reference/zero point does not change during the measurements.

I print my own degree wheels onto A4 paper, cut it out and laminate it. You cna have it any size, But remember a larger wheel, will increase the accuracy of your measurements, It is hard to discern 1 degree on a 3 inch wheel. But on a 30 inch wheel you can degree to seconds of a degree with ease.