macman

That rings a bell from the last time someone had this same problem on here. Looks like new pumps are metric, probably M8 x 1.25. The originals would have been 5/16" UNF if they were like clevos (and of the very few fine-thread bolts on the engine)
 
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Thanks for all the help I found what thread they are it's 5/16 24

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Just an update, I had to wait for the weather to clear up (no luxury garage ), I pulled the rad and then balancer/timing cover off and realigned to tdc which the mark on the pulley was about 30 mm out so outback jack was correct around 12 o'clock was good
I put it all back togther with new timing cover gasket/seal and said a few hell marys and turn the key and it purred like a cat
warmed it up and put it into timing mode which took a few goes (knew something was going to go wrong it was going too well )
Set it to 5deg and through some 98 fuel it it and it is like a new motor.
Cheers and thank you fro everyones help

When I did mine I saw no way other than removing the A/C compressor bracket. That said, I know there's a couple of variations of the mounting bracket (probably depending on whether it was factory fit, dealer fit or aftermarket?
 
I had to unbolt the compressor from the bracket, and then unbolt the bracket from the block before I could remove the water pump.

replied here 
 

You don't need to plug them, nothing more than a residual dribble of trans fluid will come out (unless the line in the radiator tank fails and lets coolant through). But you can get plastic caps from Clark Rubber, push-in bungs that would at least make it look neat once the lines are disconnected/gone.

that's what i'd be doing, be cutting the old cracked housing off it gently
 

The more I look at your "broken" switch, I reckon you should carefully retrieve the guts out the thermostat housing and put the switch back together. I think that brass end just fits tight into the body, I don't think yours is actually broken, just separated?

The more I look at your "broken" switch, I reckon you should carefully retrieve the guts out the thermostat housing and put the switch back together. I think that brass end just fits tight into the body, I don't think yours is actually broken, just separated?

In stock... No kidding, for $187 it'll be there a while I reckon 😂
 
https://www.justparts.com.au/parts-for-sale/ford-falcon-xe-ported-vacuum-switch-pvs-yellow-/JPW3972382
 
These things can be expensive!

In stock... No kidding, for $187 it'll be there a while I reckon 😂
 
https://www.justparts.com.au/parts-for-sale/ford-falcon-xe-ported-vacuum-switch-pvs-yellow-/JPW3972382
 
These things can be expensive!

Yeah always the way isn't it...
 
It may be easiest to see if anyone local is wrecking an XF or similar to grab another second hand PVS? Other option is to buy a bung for now, block the vacuum tubes and see if someone can post you a second hand PVS.

Yeah I do the same, use whatever goop you're using. By the time you've coated both sides of the gasket , it's sticky enough to hold the thermostat for a few seconds while you plonk the housing into place.
 
Also that yellow switch is a Ported Vacuum Switch (PVS) and they're really expensive to buy new. They are colour coded for what temperature they switch at so you need another two port yellow one. Yours is broken and has left some of its guts behind, jammed in the thermostat housing.
 
As deankdx said, I'l also be tempted to carefully cut the old thermostat housing apart and see if you can retrieve that piece and perhaps it can go back together?

Yeah I do the same, use whatever goop you're using. By the time you've coated both sides of the gasket , it's sticky enough to hold the thermostat for a few seconds while you plonk the housing into place.
 
Also that yellow switch is a Ported Vacuum Switch (PVS) and they're really expensive to buy new. They are colour coded for what temperature they switch at so you need another two port yellow one. Yours is broken and has left some of its guts behind, jammed in the thermostat housing.
 
As deankdx said, I'l also be tempted to carefully cut the old thermostat housing apart and see if you can retrieve that piece and perhaps it can go back together?

in the short term you can buy a bung for that port.. most of My hoses and stuff when i had XD XE XF were never connected to those things anyway. 

"its fixed n fxxk does it haul arse"  after an explanation like that Dave  he is probably out running the blue lights somewhere between borders from vic to qld on the covert 2020 run  haha             hmm maybe I should give him my outback to wake it up a bit 🤔

Jeez that snorkel runs close to the positive terminal on the battery.

Finished. 4 more to go

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Cool.
 
Tricky to tune the TQ, but she'll stay in tune for years.  If you need kits, Mikes carb spares in the States is awesome, and for a very long, slow tutorial Rockys roadshow on Utube.

Anyway i took her for a spin an she was bogging down on take off so turned the screw in once & made no difference so turned it out twice & got it much better then turned it back a qtr more & she feels really good now not hesitating & bogging down on takeoff. So what have i learnt today? Dont be a fkn idiot & go out spending money on things first before fully checking everthing first & have a break & start fresh the nxt day with a clear head haha

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same hump, different shifter. 
 

dont rev it too high for a while
it will either come good.. or it won't.. 
crossflows can tick away for yonks.. 
call it a TICKford enhanced crossflow.. hear it ticking ... TICK ford.. lol.
 
there's ways it can be fixed, if your Dad was a mechanic he'd know the potential of why it's ticking.. (wiped cam, gunked up or worn lifter it the most likely, can be bodged by grinding the rocker shaft post so it takes up the slack(if you were doing this you'd get a spare one.. ...incase the motor was being fixed later, otherwise you add a shim to set the pre load)

old similar era Ford Laser had similar wheels.. might be possible they take the same cap 
pity, i was just at Pick a part yesterday and there was a 1980 Laser GHIA there that might have had those wheels
see if you can get a measurement on them and i'll see if i can get down there in the next day or so
 
not sure if they were still on it

You spelt 'Bilstein' wrong. 😅

Could go to a wreckers yard and find some original trans lines, and cut them 100 mm long, from the rad, then simply change yours over and add clear tube.