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There was just enough time this afi to semi clean another std clevo block this ones a 6/11/78 xc i would say but again no sign of blue paint it looks like the xd block being black i measured it up std bore,these std bore blocks are starting to rack up Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

It's a nub. Lol. Hey Chestnut, if your doing a few motors on the cheap, try flex hone to hone the bores. Much easier on the bores than stones etc. I used one on my 4L rebuild. Good bit of kit. Line boring/honing will always be better but if the bores aren't bad and just need a hone, the Flex hone is more expensive than stone hones but does a better more even job. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

G'day Sparky Dave and everyone who might help. Hope its ok to start a new thread as well as post it here as I'm not sure if anyone will see it as this thread is older. Sorry if this is long winded. After typing all this out with one finger it seems so. I just joined this forum to see if you might be able to help. The info you posted on this thread is the most accurate I've found. I have recently purchased a Ford F100 1977 long wheel base 4x4 automatic floor shift with a (351 Cleveland maybe). From what is posted here I believe I have verified I have a 1977 ford f100 4x4. But that's where I don't know the rest. The vin is AL4KTR50448K Model code is 64727 Engine code is Y (I need help here it looks like Y is a 302) Transmission code is L (which is 4 speed manual and I have auto). SDIO code is 929334 Engine number in the truck is JG31RP61522K (which it seems comes up as from a 1975 ford falcon station wagon) but I don't know how to check the engine capacity or other engine specs, heads if I am right about that? Looking at the block casting it's D43DCA. I don't know what this means but its the square Cleveland block with no numbers on the heads. When I purchased the guy said he has owned it for 15 years and bought it from a dealer who said the engine had been rebuilt with high compression heads by the previous unknown owner and its a 351 Cleveland. I get between 175 psi to185 psi compression test. So now I'm on the learning curb trying to figure out the codes to see what I've actually got. which I'm gathering at this point its a 1977 Ford f100 4x4 long wheel base and the engine and transmission have been changed or its the original engine and transmission. Its either a 302 or a 351. The heads look like 351 but what was factory for this vehicle is what I'm after are engine specs for the engine I have and where it originally came from. Cheers and hope you guys might be able to help out.

yes i now remember the phone call with him he said he had a fairlane black block and when he said jh63 i thought this has to be a std pillowblock cause the last one i had was a jh63,but nah when i got there and checked em all out no pillowblock.

I think you got a very large paperweight there Action Man, unless you plan on making it a mega stroker Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That looks like a spun journal to me Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Also just found a difference in casting compared to my other 400 block from same foundry check this chunky bit out the other block dont have it Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Money wise a xf sedan will suit me with no p/s cause the 400 is a bitch to sought out p/s wise but anyway lets have a quick look at this block b4 taking it to the machine shop for hot tank and rebore ect my rebuild kit should come this week ,its a 1971 400 block and doesnt seem to have any damage to the bores so good so far,look how wide these are,also D1AE casting without any abbreviations after it means high nickel content only very early 400s were like this.i found this out on a clevo casting page Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Action man scores the 400 block and crank and also another single plane eddy manifold the one thats so hard to find for $50 stupid me paid 420 bux from america ahh well i have 2 now Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info dale,here is the ltd block after a clean up,all is good except for big scratch in number 1 but should clean up fine with a re bore Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

i found another 400 block in gc,std bore,im going to grab it in the morning,then lets get the 400 cranking.

Ok well thar she is cleaned up a bit now looks like a very good core i always remove the oil plugs x5 and core plugs just to make sure its not too rusty in there and this one is fine the 1980xd black block ok lets dig the next one out and sus it out Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Finally got a set of digital thingos so measured up all the blocks and have 7 standard bore and 1 thirty thou and 1 forty thou , also the crank came back from hot tank and polished now take the block down and see if we stay 030 or go 040 Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Just removing the ridge and honing will give you an egg shaped cylinder bore. You'll definitely get blow by. Having said that, If it's just a daily, it would be fine.

Yeah, my XB is JG34..... (1975 Fairmont) Blue blocks had larger dizzy shaft hole in block, XD/XE had slightly smaller (black blocks)

Does blue block mean pre xc xd?