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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/01/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    bear351c

    Long Term Engine Storage

    If you're talking a year before touching anything, then grease the SHIT out of everything. Get your hands dirty, smear it all over the bores, wind the engine over and repeat. Same as with the head, block face, valves, rods, pushrods, bolts and any part that is machined/shiny. WD40 is crap, don't bother, as after winter all your metal will be rusty. This means that when you come to rebuild, you will need to wash everything down REALLY well, with thinners or Acetone, to remove all residue. But that's all part of learning, being able to touch, feel, handle all the mechanicals. Just my 12 cents worth. Others may disagree, but Such Is Life.
  2. 2 points
    gerg

    Long Term Engine Storage

    Nah pretty much nailed it Bear. Myself.... I would loosely assemble it, coating everything in a mix of grease and canola oil, thin it down with turps and spray it on everything with a cheap pump pack from Bunnings. The turps evaporates, leaving behind the oily/greasy film. Assembling it keeps the bits protected inside, away from outside air. I had a virgin 4MA crank go completely rusty just sitting on the shed floor wrapped in an old oily shirt. It's so bad it will need a 0.010 cleanup minimum. I also had a shiny, freshly reco'd crossflow alloy head go completely fucked just sitting in my shed wrapped in the plastic it came in. I think my dog might have pissed on that but you get the gist of it. Engine parts rust bloody easily. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  3. 1 point
    JackFrost

    Long Term Engine Storage

    As a COVID project I got this Crossflow engine from a bloke that wanted to do an LS conversion for a ZL Fairlane to a skid car. Win-Win as he got some cash and I saved what looked like a good engine from scrap or getting blown-up. Disclaimer here, this is the first engine I have ever done anything with beyond changing the oil, spark plugs and coolant so I'm not going to pretend I know anything. The aim was to try and learn something new while tearing it down and confirm it was a decent engine for when I can get a shed built and relocate the XF S-Pack from over the border. The XF should be an 84DA block with OEM carby & intake (if it is still all original). The new engine will be an insurance policy as the plan will be to keep the XF as original as possible although reading through the posts here it looks like the 86DA & HF-7 head are improvements. I did forget to ask for the ECU. The dismantle went well and the only casualties were the water pump and ISC Valve. Removing the fan without the four bolts that secure the pulley was fun but I got there in the end. Internals looked pretty clean so I'm hoping that the majority of its life it was driven like a Fairlane not a skid car. The local shop where I get my Family Truckster serviced inspected the block and heads and said they are sound and good for a future rebuild if required. They got the pistons (0.040) off the rods for me and gave the sump, exhaust manifold and rocker cover a clean-up but left the block and head as is. Everything is home now and the block is back on the engine stand so my plan was to put the following components back together so that I can seal everything up on the stand and stop it deteriorating or anything getting lost / damaged: Sump Block Crank Cam Head Rocker Cover Timing Cover Exhaust Manifold Injector Rail Intake Manifold an Plenum Thermostat and Water Pump The following parts are now wrapped up and stored away in containers: Rods Flywheel Valves / Springs / Rockers / Pushrods / Tappets Distributor Oil Pump and pick-up Timing Chain and Sprocket Power Steering Alternator I'm chasing any advice I can get but the things that came to mind first were: Should I be putting all these components back together or keeping them apart, With new gaskets would I bolt it together at a bit less than full torque given I'm just storing not running, and Will a light coat of oil on the internals be enough or should I use assembly lube or grease if it is going to sit for a couple of years ahead of being stripped again for rebuild. Thanks
  4. 1 point
    SPArKy_Dave

    Long Term Engine Storage

    Buy some Soft-Seal from your local industrial suppliers, or even Repco/Bursons may stock it? The stuff I bought, is made by CRC. It's basically a non-drying wax/grease substance, in a spray can - designed specifically for rust protection, of metal machinery parts in storage.
  5. 1 point
    CHESTNUTXE

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    But only suits factory manifold Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
  6. 1 point
    gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Interesting that they still used the D2AE part number even though it was made in a completely different country, manufacturing process and material. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
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