Grimmy 312 Posted May 15, 2013 Ok so I've noticed today that I have a small amount of water in the sump , so the question is how did it get their ? It's an 83da block , 0decked , mains studded , head studded , shaved head ect . Professionally built by engine builder bla bla . I was thinking blown head gasket , but surely not as both surfaces were decked and it has head studs 2nd thing that came to mind was maybe leaking around the threads in the head studs if proper sealant wasn't used 3rd and finally the block has cracked at the front at the water pump stud . Needless to say I'm filthy on it but I was after a second opinion or a few other ideas before I ring the builder tomorrow Ricky Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tyler06 266 Posted May 15, 2013 How much running has it done since build? How much water? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mcfly94 169 Posted May 15, 2013 i had this about 6 months ago, replaced the bottom end with a good running motor. head bolts had come loose Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,273 Posted May 15, 2013 Have you recently washed the engine? Driven through deep water? Got any air bubbles in radiator with cap off? Does engine overheat? Excessive steam from tailpipe? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted May 15, 2013 With that crack she is cactus bro...You need to re block it.No saving that.Make grout your friend and when assembling be very particular with the tightening sequence and use a lube and sealant on that front stud. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grimmy 312 Posted May 15, 2013 It's done about 5000kms since its been built , never overheated , hasn't been near deep water , haven't noticed steam from the exhaust or bubbles in the radiator . Hasn't been revved past 6500rpm , might seem like a lot but a used to rev a stock bottom end and crap head that was not touqued in any fashion and never had an issue Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grimmy 312 Posted May 15, 2013 The engine builder is very particular with the fastening lubricant and tourqe specs , but it won't hurt to ask . I hope it's not the block . Wats the damage on grout these days ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted May 15, 2013 Bro you said it has cracked at the front where the water pump is...it needs re-blocking. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grimmy 312 Posted May 15, 2013 Oh sorry , my bad . it may have cracked . I haven't had it apart to check , Builder might want it back as is and untouched . Will find out tomorrow I guess Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PSI_LTD 37 Posted May 17, 2013 new block it is. grouting won't fix a cracked block, will only increase tolerance to cracking of an uncracked block. make sure the correct length bolts, correct tightening sequence and torque are used. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Falcman007 100 Posted May 22, 2013 go over the head bolts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rswepn 66 Posted May 22, 2013 Have you done a compression & leakdown test ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wes 214 Posted May 22, 2013 How much water we talking? How did you notice it? If it was by draining the oil? Are you losing Radiator water? Cold weather can cause condensation very easily. Not uncommon for me to open the cap on my sleeper and to see milky oil in the morning. Dipstick is clean as a whistle whilst engine oil cap and cam lobe milky. 10 mins running and it goes away unless i leave it for 3 days. after 2 years driving the air and oil separator had 20 mls of oil and 500mls of water. Could very well just be condensation due to cold weather. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BoostedXD 14 Posted May 23, 2013 Yeah may be just condensation. I had this last year about this time, I was concerned about milky water and drops of water in the oil, but dipstick always clear oil. I ended up compression testing , all good, so got the whole lot pulled down and checked and nothing wrong. To stop the condensation, all I did was instead of having the breather on the catch can go to atmosphere, I just attached a hose to the top side of the carb hat, so gave slight suction to keep the water mist or condensation out of the engine, and its all gone. Still get milky oil on underside of the cap until its warmed up if I haven't driven it in a week or so. Depends how much water and how you found it. I first found mine last year when dumping the oil, started seeing milky oil on underside of oil cap, so dumped the oil and found about a cap full of water in the oil and panicked, but ultimately it was all fine, but cost me $1200 to strip clean and test to be sure..! 1 Wes reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grimmy 312 Posted May 24, 2013 I first noticed the milky oil on the bottom of the dip stick and it also had water droplets all the way upto the top It's been worse than in the pic , the first time I found it it was about a half hour or so of driving . Pulled the tappet cover off and it was clean up top . I called the bloke who built it and he also thinks it may be condensation but shortly after I got off the phone I found it leaking coolant around the head studs The builder recommended I put "black blocks" in the radiator to seal any leaks , it seems to have stopped coolant weeping around the studs but I'm still finding milk on the dipstick . So it maybe just condensation . But after its just been running ? It's not consistent either , sometimes it's their and others its not . A compression test came back at 200+ psi on all cyls , gauge don't go any higher . It hasn't blown up so it can't be too bad I guess .. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BoostedXD 14 Posted May 24, 2013 That stud goes straight into the water jacket, so that's common to leak if not sealed somehow. As for it happening infrequently, I'd say its linked to humidity and condensation. Put a catch can on it if you don't already. Mine traps about 100mls every 2-3 months and crap fuel in high comp engine can also lead to water mist from the combustion in the block. Put a catch can on it and make sure it has some form of suction back into the intake and it should go away Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted May 24, 2013 The front stud doe's go into water and I found the only sealant that works is the Holden branded stuff.Thats not really a issue in it's self as you can address that as it sits now.As for the condensation I'd suggest taking it for a a longish drive of about 30mins-1hr atleast at constant hyw RPM and speed and that should see the end of the water in the oil. But first off remove and re seal that front stud and take it up in like 4 stages as your not doing all of em your only doing one so you could easily crack the front of the block.That said I always do em up to full tension too and have never had a failure as I use assembly paste under the nut. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted May 25, 2013 Just remember to dump the coolant before removing that head bolt, as Sly said reseal that bolt and see how you go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted May 25, 2013 Yes forgot to mention that...good pick up. 1 Clevo120Y reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites