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Standard valve springs for cam break in

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A hydraulic lifter has a constant pressure going into it from the oil gallery, but the disc valve inside only allows oil in when the tiny cylinder inside it sees a clearance in the valve train. As soon as the clearance is taken up, oil is prevented from entering.

 

Normal lifters have a bleed-down rate that might be say 10 seconds to a couple of minutes, so the disc valve admits small amounts of oil in to take up slack again. This happens constantly whenever the engine runs. You might hear a bit of clicking when your oil level is low... That's the lifters running out of oil more quickly than the oil system can supply. Conversely, you can have a spike in oil pressure and over-pump your lifters due to the little disc valve being overcome by oil pressure (I had this happen with a faulty relief valve on my oil pump).

 

Lifter pump-up is caused by a combination of higher oil pressure at high rpm and the lifter losing pressure on the back of the cam lobe at higher rpm, which in turn causes the lifter to over-fill with oil and hold the valve open. It's often heard as a temporary misfire (mostly so at idle) after driving hard for a bit.

 

Anti pump-ups have a high leak-down rate and a slower, more controlled pump up rate to try and prevent over-filling of the lifter. They are a high-tolerance, specialty item with lower production numbers so are more expensive.

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Yes the bigger cam probably has a higher rev range - therefor the recommendation for anti pump ups.  if you are getting that far up in the range - just go solid and be done with it in my opinion.  more maintenance but seriously who doesn't like grabbing a beer and checking tappets during a routine oil change? 

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seriously who doesn't like grabbing a beer and checking tappets during a routine oil change? 

 

Lol...Except if it's on a Jap car...

 

Instead of a beer in your hand, it's a bottle of dettol and a roll of elastoplast for all the cuts from the sharp and nasty bits

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I checked the oil pressure today at work. At idle 25psi hot, 2k 45psi 3k 50psi and alittle over that was max oil pressure. Still not entirely sold on this cam. The power has definately moved up the rpm and pulls more revs. I still need to put the 3.7s back in the car as instructed by camtech. The cam before had more midrange/ torquer feel. I did feel a couple of times at wot what felt and sounded like the rev limiter(msd streetfire) at around 5k then cleans up. Need to look into it maybe the dizzy is on its way out

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I checked the oil pressure today at work. At idle 25psi hot, 2k 45psi 3k 50psi and alittle over that was max oil pressure. Still not entirely sold on this cam. The power has definately moved up the rpm and pulls more revs. I still need to put the 3.7s back in the car as instructed by camtech. The cam before had more midrange/ torquer feel. I did feel a couple of times at wot what felt and sounded like the rev limiter(msd streetfire) at around 5k then cleans up. Need to look into it maybe the dizzy is on its way out

 

Manual or auto and what dizzy ?

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I previously had them in it and didn't mind them for around town. I think it will love it. The new cam pulls hardest up top so the the 3.7 will bring it down abit but 1st will be short. I need to sort the miss/ rev limiter problem first

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3.7's will help it for sure but maybe a V8 rail would be better as they have a longer first gear. I'd check the plugs and do a AFR reading to make sure you havn't got a lean or rich spot.

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Those oil pressures readings sound like just a standard pump with standard relief.  You will not see more than that 50psi with that pump.   

 

Did you dial this camshaft in?  If not perhaps that is the issue - although camtech are pretty good and usually go in dot to dot anyway - but they all need checking.

 

3.7's would be fun, but in reality the torque these things generate usually means you can pull less teeth.  Depends what you want from the car. 

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I still have to sort out the tune as I fitted an aussiespeed inlet at the same time as the cam swap. il wait till its tuned better but the old cam pulled the 3.45 better. The 510 seems to have a smooth broad power where the old cam cam on strong a pulled harder but not as broad

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Did you convert it to East West? That does make a very good differnce to a 6 banger. When I tried the 750DP and 4 barrel manifold on the ute it had a instant AFR change from n/s to e/w.

 

Can't recommend this mod enough,it does make good difference.

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Did you convert it to East West? That does make a very good differnce to a 6 banger. When I tried the 750DP and 4 barrel manifold on the ute it had a instant AFR change from n/s to e/w.

 

Can't recommend this mod enough,it does make good difference.

I would love to do this to mine but just not enough room.Would have to raise the carby so that means hole in the bonnet.

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Spare bonnet for race day. Just saying....

And when the bonnet comes off after race day the carby spacer and the conversion will have to be changed back as well. Then its a retune because the east west conversion makes such a difference I couldn't run the same tune...just saying

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no it can't, i made a 5mm spacer from alloy with counter sunk screws for the aussie speed manifold, the only issue is with those fancy throttle brackets, they foul the shock tower so you have to use the small one and I suggest a steel unit as the alloy can bend with 2 return springs

 

you can also get the plates from Mark now

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