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slydog

Line locker fittment

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Ok who has done this and what did you use to make it all work.Did you set it up to hold your brakes on or turn the rears off?

 

Got a Jegs solenoid kit for it but no fittings or anything yet till I decide which way to go with it.

 

 

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Fitted a B&M line locker on my old XD, Hard finding a brake guy to do the flares i needed. Used to block off the rears, so i could creep forward and steer.

Switch fitted on side of console, next to seat.  (Very illegal in SA....the Granny State.) but,  tons of FUN !!!!

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Used to block off the rears, so i could creep forward and steer.

This, the safe way to do it. Would rather have control of the fronts. Just make sure you switch it off, hate to be stopping from 120+ using fronts only :-/

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I've fitted a few wilwood ones over the years to peoples cars. Just put it in the line down the body to the rear brakes usually Rob. To keep the rears off. I guess you could use it to hold them on but as stated above for staging you need to be able to move. Another thing would be if the solenoid is normally open or normally closed. If it was a normally closed one then you'd have to have it energized the whole time your driving and eventually the coil on it would burn out and die. Just something else to ponder...

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I put a summit kit on the front brakes of the burnout car when I was trying to skid it in manual form.  the manual sucked but the line lock worked a treat.

 

The summit kit came with a moment switch and an activated light.  The light was a good idea but I'm not sold on the moment switch. 

 

For your application I would lock off the rears so that they don't heat up when you do your burnout and potentially cause drag.  I have a mate at a brake shop so I just bent all the lines up and cut them to length and then he flared the end and put the fittings on.  I fitted it up to the car to save him any legality issues - although my ute doesn't see the road.

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Good info there guys...while I'm no burnout king nor interested in it TBH making it easier on the car where possible always helps.I'll have to sort the unit out and fit it down stream on the rears I reckon.

 

Cheers guys...

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Rear brakes not needed during the burnout.

I've got a b&m line locker in the shed I haven't fitted since I can't work out fittings,

I know there 1/8 npt but flair fittings don't seat properly. I might need an adapter for 1/8npt to flair??

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Good info there guys...while I'm no burnout king nor interested in it TBH making it easier on the car where possible always helps.I'll have to sort the unit out and fit it down stream on the rears I reckon.

 

Cheers guys...

 

A guy i used to work with gave me some good advice

 

Put the lock on the fronts if your running a manual

 

> Clutch in

> Foot on brake

> Lock fronts

> Foot off of brake

(Rears are unlocked , fronts are locked with the brake on)

> Dump Clutch

> Skids

> Turn line lock off

>  Slippery_When_Wet_Sign.jpg

 

So thats what ill be doing lol

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Rear brakes not needed during the burnout.

I've got a b&m line locker in the shed I haven't fitted since I can't work out fittings,

I know there 1/8 npt but flair fittings don't seat properly. I might need an adapter for 1/8npt to flair??

 

Yeah garth you can buy an adapter. Either back to 3/8 x 24 or 10 x 1. Either of those flare nuts fit 3/16 tube. Up to you and whatever nuts you get. If you want I can post some up to you. We've got them at work.

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> Lock fronts

> Foot off of brake

(Rears are unlocked , fronts are locked with the brake on)

> Dump Clutch

The only issue I'd have with that is if the tyres slide as you're doing your burnout. Better have a hair trigger on that switch and a quick bloody reaction time IMO. Have seen plenty of high horsepower cars over the years clip a safety barrier because they've jumped sideways in the burnout box, and that's with full control of the fronts.

I can see the advantage of locking the fronts using a manual box, it just doesn't sit well in my mind :-(

 

Anyone else ever thought of using a gas lock off as a line lock (without the filter of course), if it can handle LPG pressure it could surely handle hydraulic pressure from the brakes yeah? Happy to be (scientifically) proved wrong on this.

 

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Well yes Glenn...and I know Willwood make a "valve" that essentially doe's just turn off the rear brakes and can be cabin mounted...sort of.Like drill a hole in the floor where you can reach and stick the push pull handle thru :) Fitting ANYTHING at all in any brake line concerns me TBH but if it has to be done I'd rather loose the rears then fronts.Had to use the last turn off @ Heathcoate on Friday night twice due to brakes and the top end not being very well lit.

 

Saturday I only had to dive down there once after it ran down the left lane as I couldn't see old mate in the other lane.No I don't like sitting there waiting for some one you don't know to come by @ 110mph plus trying to stop there own stuff let alone worry about me sitting there limiting there run off.

 

Doesn't need it to help turn the tyres thats for sure and I don't do skid comps,but it would make it easier on the car if I ever wanted to I guess.    

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Thanks Pete I'll remember for later, need to get front brakes to come unstuck at the moment. Takes 119ft/lb to turn front wheels. :angry:

Put the lock on the fronts if your running a manual

 

> Clutch in

> Foot on brake

> Lock fronts

> Foot off of brake

(Rears are unlocked , fronts are locked with the brake on)

> Dump Clutch

> Skids                                                                                                   

> Turn line lock off

Don't need line lock in the front for manual burnouts, just learn to heel toe brake & accelerator,

press brake & accel at same time with right foot, dump clutch, spin, upgears. easy I do it in my AU.

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