wagoon

Brakes are the same yeah. If its a series 1 15" wheels will fit. Series 2 onwards had bigger brakes and 16" wheels standard. Not sure if 15s fit those.

Yeah Im with Thom, you will want to use the torque of the engine which happens better with a slightly taller gear. Shorter gears are for higher horsepower cars that rev higher.
If you did very little highway driving you could change to a 3.45 ratio as that will help with moving the car better.

I believe you will find they were 2.92s AFAIK there wasn't a 2.77 28 spline as they are a different housing to the other diffs a 2.92 wouldn't even be 250 rpm higher at 100 kmh

 
2.77 housings are machined differently to the other ratios you can fit the hemisphere out of the other housings with a fair amount of machine work personally I don't think it would be worth the hassle when you can get 28 spline 2.92s

No they didn't, although some v8 xc, xd and xe (and equivalent Fairlanes ) had a 2.92 28 spline borgeys but 3.08 are much more common as most base model e series had them

There are/were tray back xr6 one tonners,they had 16" alloys factory.

Dont the xr utes have the same alloy wheels as the sedans? Arent the one tonne utes only fitted with steel rims?
I was under the impression that its the load rating of the tyres more so than the rims themselves that dictate load rating.

All blocks are just about identical apart from the key feature of the 86DA block allowing for the easy installation of an EF falcon full counter weight crank. But since your only spending $5000 don't worry about EF cranks of better blocks just run with what you have especially if it's in good condition. You would need to be spending close on $15,000 on the motor to warrant the EF crank
 
Staying with carby will be much easier, cheaper and will net more horsepower especially with the amount of money you have to spend.
 
Next couple of questions will be
1. Is $5000 just on the motor or everything including gearbox, diff, brakes etc
2. Is the car auto or manual? Do you need to convert the car to your desired choice of gearbox?
3. What diff ratio do you want/have
4.What is the car going to be used for.
 
Don't focus on horsepower cause you wont be able to brag you have heaps, but what you do have is a light car compared to all the newer cars and a very torquey engine that will actually make your car fast.

These coil overs look like a nice mod, great for improving handling and adjustable ride height. RRS may seem expensive however the money you spend to setup stock modified suspension properly is not actually cheap either. I have done both, and you will always suffer from shithouse ball joint angles trying to run any decent camber. If you want serious handling you need to cough it up. Just the RRS struts were 3.8 seconds a lap quicker than the stock modified setup, and it handles and rides like my FG. The best thing for me was engineers will sign off on any RRS product with no testing. Plenty of aftermarket options these days out there, which is great for the box models.

I'm going to have to disagree with you on this on greg, reason being is what I have achieved with my sedan. On my sedan I have coilovers in the rear which only required custom upper mounts as the coilovers mount horizontal not vertical like the shock absorbers, these custom mounts are very simple to make and wouldn't cost much to get made. Then for the front you can either run the above coilovers or a custom spring and quality shock. I think it is very reasonable to say that for $2500(will cost much less if you can or know someone that can do the fab work) you can have both front and back suspension sorted with good quality products for a good handling car on the street. A genuine street driven import will not out handle a well setup street driven falcon it's just the falcon requires fabrication, lateral thinking and modification like the shelby drop, the imports only require bolt on parts.

Yeah I know what you mean about RRS prices, and WTF is it with selling it cheaper to the states I do 100% agree with you that the shelby drop needs to be engineered as you have changed mounting locations which changes lots of things, even the aftermarket A arms brought in from the states will need to be engineered to make sure they meet the regulations of the car they are being put onto.
 
I do wonder how many aftermarket products are actually engineered, as although I haven't looked into it for a while there was a rather large aftermarket company that was selling all manner of parts but only 2 products where actually engineered. So when people asked is their stuff ADR approved the answer was yes, just neglected mention the fine print saying that it was only on 1% of the things they sold. Basically anything that I see for sale that is not clearly labelled as ADR approved (doesn't automotive mass produced products have to comply with ADR regulation not just one off engineering rules?) I take as non compliant and no different to the stuff I make.

I'm going to have to disagree with you on this on greg, reason being is what I have achieved with my sedan. On my sedan I have coilovers in the rear which only required custom upper mounts as the coilovers mount horizontal not vertical like the shock absorbers, these custom mounts are very simple to make and wouldn't cost much to get made. Then for the front you can either run the above coilovers or a custom spring and quality shock. I think it is very reasonable to say that for $2500(will cost much less if you can or know someone that can do the fab work) you can have both front and back suspension sorted with good quality products for a good handling car on the street. A genuine street driven import will not out handle a well setup street driven falcon it's just the falcon requires fabrication, lateral thinking and modification like the shelby drop, the imports only require bolt on parts.

I'm going to have to disagree with you on this on greg, reason being is what I have achieved with my sedan. On my sedan I have coilovers in the rear which only required custom upper mounts as the coilovers mount horizontal not vertical like the shock absorbers, these custom mounts are very simple to make and wouldn't cost much to get made. Then for the front you can either run the above coilovers or a custom spring and quality shock. I think it is very reasonable to say that for $2500(will cost much less if you can or know someone that can do the fab work) you can have both front and back suspension sorted with good quality products for a good handling car on the street. A genuine street driven import will not out handle a well setup street driven falcon it's just the falcon requires fabrication, lateral thinking and modification like the shelby drop, the imports only require bolt on parts.

The way I understand it , lift and tighter lsa = torque . But the less lobe separation means the power comes on quicker but falls over quicker aswell .

the Tighe 725 is a 110LSA on a 106ICL,
yeah I think your thinking right less ADV duration will make more torque
Tighter LSA will make more torque & move power band down,

I don't know the exact size of the waterpump pulley but I'm pretty sure it's the same size as the std harmonic balancer , so would drive 1.1 normally .
 
So to work it out you divide the circumference of the driven pulley (waterpump) by the driving pulley ( crank) and the alternator is an idler so it has no effect
 
I think !

Nope not at all.They have about 10-20mm clearance between WP pulley and balancer pully.

XC water pump,pulley measures 170mm or there abouts. Somewhere around that would have to do the job

I only know how little I know

I don't fucking know women

I've got 2 of those centre consoles one in my factory manual s pak sedan and one in my factory manual povo pack wagon. Only difference is it has a the stick where the blank spot is. In the first pic the compartment in front of where the carpet is, it works out it is the perfect size for a 3 gauge pod.

Cranks don't so much handle "power" more like RPM. Folks run upwards of 500 hp running boost on a cast crank but they keep it below 6000, keep the timing sensible and get it balanced and seem to live ok. Harmonics kill inline cranks more than anything else.
 
Nope, as far as I know, all bottom ends are equal. XR6 spec got a very mild port with slightly bigger valves, cam and slight bump in compression but no other mechanical differences.

The only difference between au xr6 and standard bottom end is the standard engine uses a half thrust bearing whereas the xr6 uses a whole one

There you go mate all pics in one post.
 
As for the wheels I had them one my car when I bought it. Its an XE Spak, the owner ordered them instead of the normal Spak wheels. I don't know how you would go about finding if those wheels were ordered though

There you go mate all pics in one post.
 
As for the wheels I had them one my car when I bought it. Its an XE Spak, the owner ordered them instead of the normal Spak wheels. I don't know how you would go about finding if those wheels were ordered though