Trev Vaa

whats the piston measurement down the bore? it wont change compression if comparing 0 deck to 0 deck.
 
standard 302 rods are just over 6" long, i think 6.030" center to center.

http://www.falcongt.com.au/shop/shopexd.asp?id=1300&bc=no
 
i didn't pay that much.
genuine one wont be sold as its off the RPO.
ill ask dad if he still wants to use my one as he wants it for a new motor.

my 2 cents, try and clean the block up then measure it with a set of verniers if you can, you may find its already been rebuilt.
my biggest concern with a block like that is what the water jackets would be like and how much would be left after acid soaking it.
 
if you want to buy another engine, have a good look around, there is a lot of clevelands around and freight can be organised from interstate.
another option if you are hard pressed would be to buy an engine down here (i know of a bloke who would have plenty), send your 6" rods down here and i can point you in the direction of a very very good machinist.
don't fool yourself into thinking its cheap, id expect to pay 2K to have the block machined, a bottom end balanced and dummy assembly. minimum.
 
pistons etc are all easily available for a 6" rod combo too, ross, diamond, arias, precision intl etc all keep them in stock.
 
you can always collect your parts too then buy a block later on, everything except pistons & bearings that is, but they can just be ordered once you know what sizes you need, cam, heads, intake, carb, exhaust, etc can all be organised before hand.
 
don't get bogged down thinking its too big of a project either, chip away at it and eventually you'll have everything.

my 2 cents, try and clean the block up then measure it with a set of verniers if you can, you may find its already been rebuilt.
my biggest concern with a block like that is what the water jackets would be like and how much would be left after acid soaking it.
 
if you want to buy another engine, have a good look around, there is a lot of clevelands around and freight can be organised from interstate.
another option if you are hard pressed would be to buy an engine down here (i know of a bloke who would have plenty), send your 6" rods down here and i can point you in the direction of a very very good machinist.
don't fool yourself into thinking its cheap, id expect to pay 2K to have the block machined, a bottom end balanced and dummy assembly. minimum.
 
pistons etc are all easily available for a 6" rod combo too, ross, diamond, arias, precision intl etc all keep them in stock.
 
you can always collect your parts too then buy a block later on, everything except pistons & bearings that is, but they can just be ordered once you know what sizes you need, cam, heads, intake, carb, exhaust, etc can all be organised before hand.
 
don't get bogged down thinking its too big of a project either, chip away at it and eventually you'll have everything.

my 2 cents, try and clean the block up then measure it with a set of verniers if you can, you may find its already been rebuilt.
my biggest concern with a block like that is what the water jackets would be like and how much would be left after acid soaking it.
 
if you want to buy another engine, have a good look around, there is a lot of clevelands around and freight can be organised from interstate.
another option if you are hard pressed would be to buy an engine down here (i know of a bloke who would have plenty), send your 6" rods down here and i can point you in the direction of a very very good machinist.
don't fool yourself into thinking its cheap, id expect to pay 2K to have the block machined, a bottom end balanced and dummy assembly. minimum.
 
pistons etc are all easily available for a 6" rod combo too, ross, diamond, arias, precision intl etc all keep them in stock.
 
you can always collect your parts too then buy a block later on, everything except pistons & bearings that is, but they can just be ordered once you know what sizes you need, cam, heads, intake, carb, exhaust, etc can all be organised before hand.
 
don't get bogged down thinking its too big of a project either, chip away at it and eventually you'll have everything.

^ now thats at the higher end of what you would want to build.
 
lower end.
 
same bottom end as before, but use iron heads and get them ported (exhaust port is what needs most of the work) and a larger exhaust valve installed.
RPM airgap intake
comp DEH275 cam
10:1 compression
balanced bottom end, resized rod bolts etc
hypereutectic pistons
RPM airgap intake
Zok/pro systems carb
380-400hp and it'll be an awesome street motor. it'll also cost you well under 6K
 
dunno how old you are but it sounds like you are young, do not make the mistake of thinking you can outdrive everyone, horsepower and torque can get you into a lot of trouble very quickly, these are old cars, be respectful of what they can do.
this coming from a dude whos got a driving record longer than most movie scripts too mind you.
 
edit: if you wanted room to move upwards, build this with unported heads, you'll make 380hp, but then save up and down the track throw on a set of alloys and swap the cam and top end out, and presto you have another 100hp on top

horses for corses mate.... all comes down to $$$
 
as far as the bottom end goes, a 351 crank will be the cheapest option for getting extra CI, you already have long rods so keep them.
cranks come up pretty often.
if you want to spend the extra $$ and go a stroker, then by all means go for it, but just parts will be well over 2K + machining (they're nowhere near install finish when you buy them)
 
PISTONS: do not be fooled, you can push clevo blocks to 30 thou on the early ones, but they have a tendency to run hot, keep the over bore to a minimum and if required get custom pistons to suit (should only cost another $200), do not make the same mistake everyone does and jump straight to a 30 thou overbore. get forged pistons off the bat so you know your safe.
 
best bang for buck i would say is a set of CHI 2v heads, seeing as more and more people unfortunately seem to be having problems with AFD (which i have not had at all). otherwise you'd be looking at CHI 208s and the CHI dual plane manifold.
swapping over to alloy heads really is the best thing you can do, and honestly something you should save up for.
 
camshaft, the XE274H should produce 420hp with alloy heads and a good exhaust, the 284H should be well up over 450 (i think AFD claimed 480 with their heads and the XE284H cam) and the XE284H (would be my pick) will sound tits, a bloke uploaded vids to youtube of one see here:

have a look through his other vids for driving sound etc
 
the bottom end, get it balanced and the crank knife edged if you wanna take some weight out of it, get the rod bolts resized to suit ARP bolts, and if you really want to be safe, add a girdle from pavtek for cheap insurance (think they're around $300 last time i checked) standard rods will handle 7500rpm/600hp easily, same as the stock crank, just need to be prepped right.
 
intake will depend on your head selection, but TFC's are the best high rise on the market for 2v heads, otherwise RPM airgap etc
CHI intake for CHI 3v's
 
carb: don't even bother with something out of the box, it'll cost less in the long run to get one spec'd from Zok racing carbs, or Pro Systems, but make this the last thing you buy, as every other component in the engine effects this.
 
oil pump, change the pressure relief spring to a 70psi one.
 
Exhaust 4>1 pacemaker, either 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers.
 
kiss 8K goodbye.

chase your steps backwards, something is blocked if the peddle is hard.
first step, undo the brake line from the caliper, if you have fluid coming out there then the calipers are seized, if not next step
next undo flex line to hard line, check for fluid, if theres fluid then you have crap in the lines, if not next step
then undo master cyl (be careful when you do this) and put a cup underneath it, check for fluid. if fluid comes out check for a pinched hardline and blow line out (make sure its all disconnected) with compressed air, you may have shit in it or the line might be kinked.
still no fluid? master cyl needs replacing.
check all stages, even if it ends up being the master cyl do not reassemble the whole system, there's a good chance there's shit in the lines that you'll need to clean out.
 
do yourself a favour, wear nitrile gloves.

chase your steps backwards, something is blocked if the peddle is hard.
first step, undo the brake line from the caliper, if you have fluid coming out there then the calipers are seized, if not next step
next undo flex line to hard line, check for fluid, if theres fluid then you have crap in the lines, if not next step
then undo master cyl (be careful when you do this) and put a cup underneath it, check for fluid. if fluid comes out check for a pinched hardline and blow line out (make sure its all disconnected) with compressed air, you may have shit in it or the line might be kinked.
still no fluid? master cyl needs replacing.
check all stages, even if it ends up being the master cyl do not reassemble the whole system, there's a good chance there's shit in the lines that you'll need to clean out.
 
do yourself a favour, wear nitrile gloves.

my 2 cents, try and clean the block up then measure it with a set of verniers if you can, you may find its already been rebuilt.
my biggest concern with a block like that is what the water jackets would be like and how much would be left after acid soaking it.
 
if you want to buy another engine, have a good look around, there is a lot of clevelands around and freight can be organised from interstate.
another option if you are hard pressed would be to buy an engine down here (i know of a bloke who would have plenty), send your 6" rods down here and i can point you in the direction of a very very good machinist.
don't fool yourself into thinking its cheap, id expect to pay 2K to have the block machined, a bottom end balanced and dummy assembly. minimum.
 
pistons etc are all easily available for a 6" rod combo too, ross, diamond, arias, precision intl etc all keep them in stock.
 
you can always collect your parts too then buy a block later on, everything except pistons & bearings that is, but they can just be ordered once you know what sizes you need, cam, heads, intake, carb, exhaust, etc can all be organised before hand.
 
don't get bogged down thinking its too big of a project either, chip away at it and eventually you'll have everything.

^ now thats at the higher end of what you would want to build.
 
lower end.
 
same bottom end as before, but use iron heads and get them ported (exhaust port is what needs most of the work) and a larger exhaust valve installed.
RPM airgap intake
comp DEH275 cam
10:1 compression
balanced bottom end, resized rod bolts etc
hypereutectic pistons
RPM airgap intake
Zok/pro systems carb
380-400hp and it'll be an awesome street motor. it'll also cost you well under 6K
 
dunno how old you are but it sounds like you are young, do not make the mistake of thinking you can outdrive everyone, horsepower and torque can get you into a lot of trouble very quickly, these are old cars, be respectful of what they can do.
this coming from a dude whos got a driving record longer than most movie scripts too mind you.
 
edit: if you wanted room to move upwards, build this with unported heads, you'll make 380hp, but then save up and down the track throw on a set of alloys and swap the cam and top end out, and presto you have another 100hp on top

horses for corses mate.... all comes down to $$$
 
as far as the bottom end goes, a 351 crank will be the cheapest option for getting extra CI, you already have long rods so keep them.
cranks come up pretty often.
if you want to spend the extra $$ and go a stroker, then by all means go for it, but just parts will be well over 2K + machining (they're nowhere near install finish when you buy them)
 
PISTONS: do not be fooled, you can push clevo blocks to 30 thou on the early ones, but they have a tendency to run hot, keep the over bore to a minimum and if required get custom pistons to suit (should only cost another $200), do not make the same mistake everyone does and jump straight to a 30 thou overbore. get forged pistons off the bat so you know your safe.
 
best bang for buck i would say is a set of CHI 2v heads, seeing as more and more people unfortunately seem to be having problems with AFD (which i have not had at all). otherwise you'd be looking at CHI 208s and the CHI dual plane manifold.
swapping over to alloy heads really is the best thing you can do, and honestly something you should save up for.
 
camshaft, the XE274H should produce 420hp with alloy heads and a good exhaust, the 284H should be well up over 450 (i think AFD claimed 480 with their heads and the XE284H cam) and the XE284H (would be my pick) will sound tits, a bloke uploaded vids to youtube of one see here:

have a look through his other vids for driving sound etc
 
the bottom end, get it balanced and the crank knife edged if you wanna take some weight out of it, get the rod bolts resized to suit ARP bolts, and if you really want to be safe, add a girdle from pavtek for cheap insurance (think they're around $300 last time i checked) standard rods will handle 7500rpm/600hp easily, same as the stock crank, just need to be prepped right.
 
intake will depend on your head selection, but TFC's are the best high rise on the market for 2v heads, otherwise RPM airgap etc
CHI intake for CHI 3v's
 
carb: don't even bother with something out of the box, it'll cost less in the long run to get one spec'd from Zok racing carbs, or Pro Systems, but make this the last thing you buy, as every other component in the engine effects this.
 
oil pump, change the pressure relief spring to a 70psi one.
 
Exhaust 4>1 pacemaker, either 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers.
 
kiss 8K goodbye.

my 2 cents, try and clean the block up then measure it with a set of verniers if you can, you may find its already been rebuilt.
my biggest concern with a block like that is what the water jackets would be like and how much would be left after acid soaking it.
 
if you want to buy another engine, have a good look around, there is a lot of clevelands around and freight can be organised from interstate.
another option if you are hard pressed would be to buy an engine down here (i know of a bloke who would have plenty), send your 6" rods down here and i can point you in the direction of a very very good machinist.
don't fool yourself into thinking its cheap, id expect to pay 2K to have the block machined, a bottom end balanced and dummy assembly. minimum.
 
pistons etc are all easily available for a 6" rod combo too, ross, diamond, arias, precision intl etc all keep them in stock.
 
you can always collect your parts too then buy a block later on, everything except pistons & bearings that is, but they can just be ordered once you know what sizes you need, cam, heads, intake, carb, exhaust, etc can all be organised before hand.
 
don't get bogged down thinking its too big of a project either, chip away at it and eventually you'll have everything.

BUT... Trap for young players just there! Should have had a plan B... I can't see or hear it running, can't see inside it, don't know how long or where it's been sitting... might work away from it... bit of an inconvenience but i've still got the money... a better one will come up!!! Plenty fish...
 
 
Don't do this or he may re-advertise it and make more $$$ and dull the enthusiasm of someone else.
 
 
Good question Jimmy! Enjoyin' that XR8 today were ya?! Engine was advertised for $650, see ebay thread.
 
 
I hope you at least negotiated a better price otherwise I think you obviously don't work hard enough for your doe and are not savvy enough on the market-place for potential boat anchors. Sorry Nath, sometimes the truth hurts and you just have to take it with both barrels. No point sugar-coating it! It's not good to see a fellow enthusiast learn these pitfalls the hard way.
 
Remember, there are real enthusiasts who will help you to keep enthused and then there are assholes.
 
 
I agree, no harm in trying to recoup some of your doe if the guy has a conscience. Otherwise note your dissatisfaction with gumtree.

Blocked bleed nipples.
E-series are bad for it, especially if the dust caps have been missing for ages.

horses for corses mate.... all comes down to $$$
 
as far as the bottom end goes, a 351 crank will be the cheapest option for getting extra CI, you already have long rods so keep them.
cranks come up pretty often.
if you want to spend the extra $$ and go a stroker, then by all means go for it, but just parts will be well over 2K + machining (they're nowhere near install finish when you buy them)
 
PISTONS: do not be fooled, you can push clevo blocks to 30 thou on the early ones, but they have a tendency to run hot, keep the over bore to a minimum and if required get custom pistons to suit (should only cost another $200), do not make the same mistake everyone does and jump straight to a 30 thou overbore. get forged pistons off the bat so you know your safe.
 
best bang for buck i would say is a set of CHI 2v heads, seeing as more and more people unfortunately seem to be having problems with AFD (which i have not had at all). otherwise you'd be looking at CHI 208s and the CHI dual plane manifold.
swapping over to alloy heads really is the best thing you can do, and honestly something you should save up for.
 
camshaft, the XE274H should produce 420hp with alloy heads and a good exhaust, the 284H should be well up over 450 (i think AFD claimed 480 with their heads and the XE284H cam) and the XE284H (would be my pick) will sound tits, a bloke uploaded vids to youtube of one see here:

have a look through his other vids for driving sound etc
 
the bottom end, get it balanced and the crank knife edged if you wanna take some weight out of it, get the rod bolts resized to suit ARP bolts, and if you really want to be safe, add a girdle from pavtek for cheap insurance (think they're around $300 last time i checked) standard rods will handle 7500rpm/600hp easily, same as the stock crank, just need to be prepped right.
 
intake will depend on your head selection, but TFC's are the best high rise on the market for 2v heads, otherwise RPM airgap etc
CHI intake for CHI 3v's
 
carb: don't even bother with something out of the box, it'll cost less in the long run to get one spec'd from Zok racing carbs, or Pro Systems, but make this the last thing you buy, as every other component in the engine effects this.
 
oil pump, change the pressure relief spring to a 70psi one.
 
Exhaust 4>1 pacemaker, either 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers.
 
kiss 8K goodbye.

^ now thats at the higher end of what you would want to build.
 
lower end.
 
same bottom end as before, but use iron heads and get them ported (exhaust port is what needs most of the work) and a larger exhaust valve installed.
RPM airgap intake
comp DEH275 cam
10:1 compression
balanced bottom end, resized rod bolts etc
hypereutectic pistons
RPM airgap intake
Zok/pro systems carb
380-400hp and it'll be an awesome street motor. it'll also cost you well under 6K
 
dunno how old you are but it sounds like you are young, do not make the mistake of thinking you can outdrive everyone, horsepower and torque can get you into a lot of trouble very quickly, these are old cars, be respectful of what they can do.
this coming from a dude whos got a driving record longer than most movie scripts too mind you.
 
edit: if you wanted room to move upwards, build this with unported heads, you'll make 380hp, but then save up and down the track throw on a set of alloys and swap the cam and top end out, and presto you have another 100hp on top

its not a rev limit.... the mild combo i posted will go to 6000

^ now thats at the higher end of what you would want to build.
 
lower end.
 
same bottom end as before, but use iron heads and get them ported (exhaust port is what needs most of the work) and a larger exhaust valve installed.
RPM airgap intake
comp DEH275 cam
10:1 compression
balanced bottom end, resized rod bolts etc
hypereutectic pistons
RPM airgap intake
Zok/pro systems carb
380-400hp and it'll be an awesome street motor. it'll also cost you well under 6K
 
dunno how old you are but it sounds like you are young, do not make the mistake of thinking you can outdrive everyone, horsepower and torque can get you into a lot of trouble very quickly, these are old cars, be respectful of what they can do.
this coming from a dude whos got a driving record longer than most movie scripts too mind you.
 
edit: if you wanted room to move upwards, build this with unported heads, you'll make 380hp, but then save up and down the track throw on a set of alloys and swap the cam and top end out, and presto you have another 100hp on top

10 grand is for the upper level of the power you're after, but for the lower figure, one horse-per-cube is a good street engine that you could easily do, with a stock-stroke 351 (without needing stroker bits). You could get an exchange built long engine for about 6 grand.
 
However if you don't mind the sound of a 5500 redline, a stroker is good value. You can get away with stock-ish valve gear because rpm is the killer, not horsepower. The flip side of that is the need for a tough drivetrain. You're in big-block territory as far as torque goes and that's what kills boxes and diffs. They need to be beefy so there goes your savings on the engine.
 
My take on it (and just my opinion) is that it's your first engine. 10-12 grand is a lot of money to throw at something you're just learning on. Then there's what it's going into. An XD is a cool car but isn't suddenly worth 15 grand as soon as you bolt a sweet engine into it. I All it takes is one fuckwit driver to wipe it out and the insurance company will throw you a bone for it. I don't need to tell you much about that sort of thing Nath :-D
 
So what about a sensible, proven combo that you can depend on, and not blow your house deposit building it?

Fuelline is 3/8". Fitted new pump, checked the timing and backed it off a little ( thanks xcsedan) Runs real good. The standard taco is in need of an upgrade now, it's not keeping up with the revs I think.

Send me a message or call tomorrow

It might pay to get some heat shielding like this for the lines.
 
It was fairly cheap and provides shielding up to 1200 degrees.
 

http://www.cvfracing.com/Ford-351C-351M-400-Serpentine-Kit-Power-Steering-p/351c-serpentine-ps.htm