Falcman007

Open a Flickr or Imgur account, then copy and paste the funny sentence.....  

Penrite HPR5 works well too. You can often get it for ~$40 for 6L too if you keep your eye out.
 
The heavy stuff is robbing you of power and fuel economy. 

use 10-30 oil
 
60 is stupid heavy and so is 30, no idea why you listen to the supercheap/autobarn idiots or idiots on forums who say use thick oil because your engine is old, I use 0-30 in a fuckign 30 year old engine and it sings, no smoke, no oil drop and perfect oil pressure 
 
if you are in tassie then it gets cold there in the mornings and with 60 oil in the morning it's fucking insane, let alone 30 cold, it's like honey ... it's a good way to fuck up your engine ... I think ford recommended 25-40 or something, never heard of a manufacturer recommending 60 weight oil ... ever

Penrites' "60" is actually equivalent to 50.
 
I ran 30-70 in my utes old motor for a while, in Tassie, it definitely preferred it to the 20-50 it used to have.
 
The wagon now has "Classic Light" in it, viscosity of that is 20W-60 (penrite), hasn't had an issue.
 
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If you want good oil..
Penrite HPR 10
It's 10w-50... sohc 4.0's love it.... heaps of zinc.
My Xg takes 5L bang on the money inc filter.
Not cheap oil but fully synth is great stuff.
I agree 20 and 30 weight too much... 15 max...
 
Jack.
 
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That oil is wrong. Drop it and put 5.5L of something lighter in it. I run 10w-30 in the 3.9 and I've run 0w in crossflows before.
 
The issue sounds like PCV. Make sure the valve works and was plumbed correctly after the head was changed.

Cheers for the replies guys. The log comment got me thinking...I degreased and washed the engine with the throttle body fully exposed to degreaser and water. And the smoke was white. Not blue... hoping it was water and degreaser sitting in the log

I don't fucking know women

Seen that BARK EB/ED...... burnout warrior only.
Supercharger is a nice idea, but turbo's are a much cheaper and more proven formula for the OHC sixes, if you wanted to boost the engine.
Forced induction is a commitment either way, if you want the drivetrain to stay reliable.
 
The 94AB heads, flow the best from factory.
and the very first EA cams, are the highest lift from factory.
 
If you can get XR6 spec valves put in a 94AB head, with an EA cam - that's the best bang for buck 'factory' combo that you'll get.
As that thread showed, the xxDT (tickford) heads, actually have less flow in factory spec, than a standard head.
 
Spend the money getting your heads flowed - before and after or standard vs tickford comparison.
Knowing those flow figures, will help you fit a cam with spec's to best suit your chosen cylinder head.
Then you could look at a J3 dyno tune.

If you didn't release the chain tensioner you will have that problem. If you force it on there without releasing the tensioner it will be way to tight and you'll stuff the cogs.

Just put it back together as I removed the crow cam and J3 chip.
It's now running the standard the ECU and the EB XR6 Cam.
Took it for a spin and it goes HARDER! WTF.
Obviously I need a adjustable cam gear to dial in the big crow.
 
( the head, cam and chip is put away until I get more goodys )

Well I dropped the head off and he says it will be fine with a polish.
So it's getting cleaned, planned, crow HD springs, valve regrind and new guide rubbers.
Cost? dunno...LOL

I find the T.I. PERFORMANCE j3's really good and Jason can get a mail order tune pretty close to what you need if you have any mods or upgrades

Well I dropped the head off and he says it will be fine with a polish.
So it's getting cleaned, planned, crow HD springs, valve regrind and new guide rubbers.
Cost? dunno...LOL

Well I dropped the head off and he says it will be fine with a polish.
So it's getting cleaned, planned, crow HD springs, valve regrind and new guide rubbers.
Cost? dunno...LOL