matt_lamb_160

Non adjustable rollers mean no solid cam just a hyd unit.And yes Camtech have better suited cams for a xflow and cheaper.

Last time I checked Camtech were cheaper than Crow and they will ship the cam to you.
 
Hope your bottom end is good.

D as in it has a D on the side of it near the intake? If so a fair amount of material can be removed from the chambers.
 
If you go the Camtech you will want roller rockers.

14650 is a slightly better cam. But if I had what you have I wouldn't buy a 14650. If you are looking to buy one, Camtech make a similar, but better cam than the 14650.
 
What are you doing with the car?

Yes. It definitely should.

Originally posted by user DEANKDX
Copied over from another forum, due to importance.
 
 
I bought this set http://cgi.ebay.com....rack=true��last August 2011 figuring the main issue would be wear sooner than TRW branded stuff. i did not expect a FAILURE in a part i assumed was one solid cast.
seems they are manufactured in 2 parts... and the thin section of the broken part is approx 1mm which surprises me it lasted the 10,000km it did.

this failed on a slow intersection turn without warning(approx 15kmh). you could only imagine what could happen if it failed at highway speeds.

i'll be changing at minimum the other side one as precaution to a TRW brand which are closer to $50 each(still cheaper than a tow truck let alone a life or injury)

THIS DISGUSTS ME TOTALLY, And although i know you get what you pay for.... you shouldn't be able to buy at any cost something so inferior (worn originals would be safer)

if you have any suggestions for AUTHORITIES to contact regarding this i'd like to get the word out to prevent this crap from ending up on our roads.
i plan to contact vic roads and RACV to pass this on to whoever will listen.

Thanks guys it's is very snug in the bay lucky I runs a bar on the motor to stop movement everything has 10mm of clearance!!
 
Haha the biggest cam you can get for these is 230@50 500 lift!!!!! I've been told it won't work in na, so that's the cam I'm going for. I will know more today.

this is what happens when speedway addictions take over. lol.

Changed the paint scheme for this year.

Sorry, but half of these comments are not helpful. 78xcgxl, everyone is well aware that you would put in a 4L. You say it in every crossflow rebuild thread and it is annoying. If you don't like crossflows, don't read about them.
 
I'd prefer to rebuild a crossflow than install a 4L, but that was not the question.
 
No reason not to use a 4brl with a hyd. cam (sorry Sly), perhaps not a 650dp though. An engine with that cam will not see more than 5,500rpm and a 465 will be enough. A 500 2brl. will start to limit the engine after 4,500 and won't be as friendly as the 4brl below 2,500rpm. Cost difference isn't great as you wouldn't use a stock mani and carb.
 
What are you going to do with the car and what rev range do you intend to use mate?
 
You don't need 200 rods with that sized cam and pistons to suit are $$$ and hard to get.

PRO250's engine looks like a good match for you. Could drop the 14650 straight in it if you find you want more rpm.
 
Or, perhaps you would consider a good 218deg at 50thou cam (Camtech make a good one). With this cam there is no great need for 200 rods and late model crank (although my last EF crank cost $20 so why not use one? 200 rods not needed though), will be nicer than the 14650 engine most of the time and will be easier on the bottom end. It will work well between 2,000 and 5,000rpm.
 
3.45s or 3.23/3.27 will be ok.
 
What lettering is on the side of the head near the inlet ports (something like c1,c2,e1,e2)? What is the diameter of the intake and exhaust valves?
 
Ando's advice is good.
 
I think you can easily do this within budget depending exactly on what you expect.

Sorry, but half of these comments are not helpful. 78xcgxl, everyone is well aware that you would put in a 4L. You say it in every crossflow rebuild thread and it is annoying. If you don't like crossflows, don't read about them.
 
I'd prefer to rebuild a crossflow than install a 4L, but that was not the question.
 
No reason not to use a 4brl with a hyd. cam (sorry Sly), perhaps not a 650dp though. An engine with that cam will not see more than 5,500rpm and a 465 will be enough. A 500 2brl. will start to limit the engine after 4,500 and won't be as friendly as the 4brl below 2,500rpm. Cost difference isn't great as you wouldn't use a stock mani and carb.
 
What are you going to do with the car and what rev range do you intend to use mate?
 
You don't need 200 rods with that sized cam and pistons to suit are $$$ and hard to get.

I recommend learning how to post pics as that will remove any confusion an regards to what you are talking about.
 
The idle control is bolted to the rocker cover adn the PCV valve will need to be kept but you'll just vent it to atmos via a catch can.

Come here with 3k you can have the 200rod engine out of my yellow car ill never use it im blown now  

specs 200rod crossy, 10.5 comp, 218@ cam, basic head and springs,  ballanced, 4barrel and 465 holley, stock grafhed dissy and steel gear, engines got less then 4000kn on it can see running and drive. burns tyres easy but will not turn past 5500 the cams to small. would be making 170 200rwhp at a guess does need a much bigger cam but its low end power is brutal

not looking for offers cause its a turn key engine with all the sorting done for you  

I have a suggestion for old mate - Have a look at what Clevo 120Y has achieved with WOMBAT's speedway car.  Now there is a combo that is punching way above its weight with mostly stock components.  WHY - because it is a well researched package using mostly stock components. 
 
Another option is find a low K x-flow (I have two, one with 115 and one with 190K's so they are around) and stick a hydraulic cam in it with a set of roller rockers, new lifters, timing chain.  gumtree sourced extractors and inlet manifold and go and have some fun. 
 
The strength of these engines is the torque they develop.  Torque is king on the street so a short rod, stock crank combo kept to below 5000 will last forever, win heaps and will fall within the budget. 

$3000 can get you 200 reliable hp from a crossy, will be as quick as a stock V8 and you won't break the bank running it. Money is best spent on balancing, porting and blueprinting rather than splashing out on name brand bits.
 
650DP is too much carby for many V8s, let alone a 6. A 390 would do nicely, but I agree that a 465 would be best.
 
You're not exactly spoiled for choice with manifolds and pricing, so you're basically stuck with Redline or Aussiespeed. I like what one bloke did and cut and shut an EA single-point manifold onto a crossy flange. A popular speedway trick I believe. Much more even length runners than on the aftermarket ones, but this will only allow a 2-barrel carby.
 
Stock valve springs are shit, but everything else is pretty tough. Get roller rockers if going above 0.500" lift, and don't go crazy with the compression. Might be an idea to look into an EF crank if you want to rev it.
 
3.45 diff will shit you to tears after only a short time driving. You'll get sick of changing gears all the time and besides, the engine will use too much power accelerating itself off the mark. I put a 3.27 in my wagon and next time I have to open up my diff I'll seriously think about swapping back to 2.92s. I also find that you lose too much time between gearchanges when accelerating. Taller gearing allows you to keep on the gas longer while your mate next to you is going backwards reaching for yet another gear. A torquey engine like a 250 will love it.
 
My old man had a warmed over XF EFI 4-speed and when the box got done up, they put a V8 gearset in with taller ratios. That plus the 2.92 diff meant that 1st could pull 80 kays but because the engine had great torque, it would go hard getting there too. He shamed some V8 dunnydores in its short life (before his wife wrote it off).

I am sure all of our alternative options are wrong because none of us know what he wants, we need to hear from him. Not much point offering other options before then.
 
Too many of these threads focus on what other people would do rather than supporting and helping the original person with what they want to do. Perhaps I should just stop reading these types of threads and just focus on builds I like and stop crying about it lol.
 
I'd build a 300 with LS heads, 4.125" stroke and bore and run metho injection, but nobody cares. Plus it can't be done for $3k haha.

Forums are to help people with their questions and to share what you are doing. You didn't offend me. You annoyed me and what you added was hardly an idea, but I am over it.

I am sure all of our alternative options are wrong because none of us know what he wants, we need to hear from him. Not much point offering other options before then.
 
Too many of these threads focus on what other people would do rather than supporting and helping the original person with what they want to do. Perhaps I should just stop reading these types of threads and just focus on builds I like and stop crying about it lol.
 
I'd build a 300 with LS heads, 4.125" stroke and bore and run metho injection, but nobody cares. Plus it can't be done for $3k haha.

Perhaps. But an engine at this level will work with basic ignition, second hand off the shelf pipes and you would need all the same driveline components for a 4L. The money all goes into the engine, intake mani and semi decent balancer.

Sorry, but half of these comments are not helpful. 78xcgxl, everyone is well aware that you would put in a 4L. You say it in every crossflow rebuild thread and it is annoying. If you don't like crossflows, don't read about them.
 
I'd prefer to rebuild a crossflow than install a 4L, but that was not the question.
 
No reason not to use a 4brl with a hyd. cam (sorry Sly), perhaps not a 650dp though. An engine with that cam will not see more than 5,500rpm and a 465 will be enough. A 500 2brl. will start to limit the engine after 4,500 and won't be as friendly as the 4brl below 2,500rpm. Cost difference isn't great as you wouldn't use a stock mani and carb.
 
What are you going to do with the car and what rev range do you intend to use mate?
 
You don't need 200 rods with that sized cam and pistons to suit are $$$ and hard to get.

Belive me I LOVE xflows but a maybe budget of $3000 plus do you have to pay people to do it for you smashes $3000 in no time.Perhaps buying a used speedway engine like what ducky had for sale is the smarter xflow option.

Sorry, but half of these comments are not helpful. 78xcgxl, everyone is well aware that you would put in a 4L. You say it in every crossflow rebuild thread and it is annoying. If you don't like crossflows, don't read about them.
 
I'd prefer to rebuild a crossflow than install a 4L, but that was not the question.
 
No reason not to use a 4brl with a hyd. cam (sorry Sly), perhaps not a 650dp though. An engine with that cam will not see more than 5,500rpm and a 465 will be enough. A 500 2brl. will start to limit the engine after 4,500 and won't be as friendly as the 4brl below 2,500rpm. Cost difference isn't great as you wouldn't use a stock mani and carb.
 
What are you going to do with the car and what rev range do you intend to use mate?
 
You don't need 200 rods with that sized cam and pistons to suit are $$$ and hard to get.

The 225 mixer will be fully open at 3,500rpm. It will be ok til around 4200, but will kill HP after that. It is too small for the 218deg cam.
 
The 208deg cam, EFI manifold and 2.75-2.92 gears will love the FWY. Perfect FWY combo in my opinion. Works well enough with up to 3.27 gears.

Some good reading in here (feel the cast head hate) 

i never knew you could get comp out of a 250 cast engine. ive got on in the shed 10cc pistons head milled to death and not making as much as i would have liked when i built it many moons ago

where you live mate that there is no 98? im in the sticks a bit and almost all places sell 98 as my ute is high in its comp and will not run very well on anything and runs on like a mofo on 91

id go get a XE head and bang it on if you have not rattled the engine to death allready

Billet goodness, got my manifold adapter back today.