Mustardxf

Yeah I don't think there is any issue there. Just sounds like a stout flat tappet motor to me. I've not yet used the aussiespeed tall covers but I would imagine that they could amplify the tappet noise.
If you have the lash right - just go out and enjoy it.

Oh I know I need to plumb it into the manifold for vacuum, i was meant to say I don't just want to feed it from the pcv straight to the manifold. doesn't worry me if it has a catch can in-between.

+1 for Tfi with locked timing  

If you're building a tank from scratch, you can build a surge tank or "swirl pot" into it, eliminating a lot of external hoses, wires, etc and potential leak points. This lets you have an in-tank pump without the need for a transfer pump and extra wiring, etc.
 
So you can get away with only 5 fittings on the tank: fuel out, return, filler neck, overflow tube, and vapour out. You could even adapt a fuel sender/pump basket from something else like a jap light commercial which will further reduce the amount of fittings needed on the tank itself. Depends on what gauges you're running too.
 
You can adapt aftermarket efi pumps to fit the basket, as most pumps are of similar size externally. You can hold them in place using hose clamps. My brother fitted a Walbro to his Supra which flowed more than the standard Denso but was slightly smaller in size.
 
This is all assuming that you don't want to run a mechanical pump. I personally think that they're as reliable if not more so than any electrical pump. Back in the '60s when they ran big blocks pumping out around 400 hp, mechanical pumps were more than fine. The upshot of that is you won't need to run a fuel reg as the pump itself is a pressure regulator. You also don't need a return.
 
Running a tank- mounted electric pump will need a fuel reg at the carby end. The long run from the tank to carby has too much pressure drop for a tank-mounted reg to control pressure accurately. You'll end up starving the carby when flow picks up under load, especially on acceleration when the pump has to push the fuel forward against its own weight. Say you have a tank-mounted reg set at 6 psi and under full flow, the pressure drop is 5 psi. That means you've only got 1 psi at the carby.... A recipe for disaster. Running a reg at the carby means it gets exactly what you set it at, regardless of the pressure drop before it.
 
Run a filter as close to the carby as possible, as the rubber hoses themselves can shed little chunks internally and get caught in your jets, squirters, etc.
 
That's all I can think of for now

Nope just how it goe's bro...make each link stronger in the chain till only really big breakages happen LOL

So shit went down hill today, took my mates for a blast this afternoon.

ended up with removing gearbox out.
turns out the clutch doesn't like aggressive take offs and high revs,
ripped the clutch right of the flywheel.
so far looks to be the only damage thank god.

I dont think its a good idea to leave the car with drastically different tyre size either. All I was saying was change tyre size to find out what diff gears suit instead of changing diff gears. Thats why I tried to explain about me using 14 and 15 inch tyres to find the correct final drive ratio. Once you find whats suits then change diff gears.
The reason why I wont change the 2.92 gears in the diff for racing is because 17 inch tyres in common sizes range from 23 1/2 inches to 26 1/2 inches in diameter which means I can run many different ratios all with the same diff without changing gears. This isnt ideal but since I dont have money for a quick change 9 inch this is the next best option, according to me anyway

my old corty use to run a 262@50 cam and it would still pull the 2.92 gears no worrys I went to 3.9s and it was just a tyre turner and slower at the track on street tyres

I dot agree or disagree with anything said but like rob said just try them and see what you think

my white car has 2.77s and will lay rubber in all gears and its cam is like 190@50

Non of that really changed my mind. 
3.45s aren't that low + they suit my cam.

Pft 3.45 for the win. I drive my ute with 4:11's around and its fine. Easiest way to slow a xflow down is expect it to be fast and pull to high a gear set without enough power.

UPDATE:
Fixed my carb so It doesn't idle high.
Put 32 degrees of timing in it.
idling between 700-780rpm.
doesn't run on anymore either.
and boy does it get up and move, even with the high diff gears (2.77's) it power skids with ease. (Y)

Take off is better, still needs a tune, gears are still to high I think and I think my float levels are to low as she after coming out of corners.

With the new exhaust!!

Sweet as, nice potato-potato idle

With the new exhaust!!

Just a 4 minute video of me loading it. sounds good though 
 

Sounds staunch bro.

With the new exhaust!!

With the new exhaust!!

Mine with a 270 degree flat tappet and 3" DiFillipo muffler. Exhaust is right to the rear valance there but all but hidden. Was a 4 barrel ACL slugged engine at this stage...till the fuel pump stopped liking the pistons.  
 

cheers gerg!
 
will take the carb off and have a look, secondaries weren't completely shutting as i could lower the idle by moving the secondary shaft!

Im now capable off doing that now, thanks to you.

cheers for the help though (Y)

yeah i have done this before my self , made me so mad to , just use a shorter bolt with a washer for now , do a proper fix later one day when you got the head off , bad idea to try and drill it whilst its still in the car, it wont hurt it running a shorter bolt .

20 min run time for the cam coupla revs in the shed..grand parade then off to 6k full race. Never babied a new engine just run the cam and vary the load. Quicker you bed rings the better.

Cheers for the help sly(Y) 

will find a TFI dizzy for it and will change the gears to 3.45's 
 
heres a clearer image