Trevor

last time we measured our 351 Clevo we got 65 litres per 100 k's, is that OK?

I thought it would be 1 to 1, so better than expected - LOL

Not bad for a race car

last time we measured our 351 Clevo we got 65 litres per 100 k's, is that OK?

Some progress this week, finally got some colour on it, just the body kit and bumpers to go.
Spent too long trying to make it super smooth, then came to the realisation that it's a race car! It'll probably get a couple of dings and scratches first time out anyway.
It's very very green, but not to fear Stick This decals is hooking me up with some funky bonnet and side styling, should have them next week!

Yep it was a washing machine tub

Hopefully Trev, should be painted and stickered in the next fortnight, I've got another respray after that then I can put it back together.

So it's been a while since I started doing some work on the race car, lots been happening but got back into it over Christmas.
Now you may remember that I had decided to go with the Peter Jackson colours.......well this happened.

I know it looks as if it's going to be a greens tuf lookalike but it's not, it is going to be a retro throwback though.
Painting happening now stay tuned.

We have run a single rail in our XE track car for over 7 years, other than a rear seal it has given us no problem

We have run a single rail in our XE track car for over 7 years, other than a rear seal it has given us no problem

Generally 2nd gear is dodgy because it is generally your 'cornering' gear, and people pull them back into 2nd at a speed too high (using the gearbox them as a brake, to "slow them down") and thus wearing the synchro's overly
 
You see exactly the same thing in truck synchro gearboxes, generally it is 4th in them

all too quickly people blame the gearbox, but nearly all issues with transmissions are caused by the operator not driving them appropriately. pushing them beyond what they are designed to do

all too quickly people blame the gearbox, but nearly all issues with transmissions are caused by the operator not driving them appropriately. pushing them beyond what they are designed to do

Generally 2nd gear is dodgy because it is generally your 'cornering' gear, and people pull them back into 2nd at a speed too high (using the gearbox them as a brake, to "slow them down") and thus wearing the synchro's overly
 
You see exactly the same thing in truck synchro gearboxes, generally it is 4th in them

It's not the best quality. I will get a better one tomorrow but here goes.
https://vimeo.com/126897182

so, is the car painted yet?  or have you been slacking?
 
 
(see you flyday)

Went down the shed to do some work on the race car, did this instead

Sorry I should have said 'we used to run them'  because we couldn't get them any more we did a brake upgrade to BA rotors and AUII callipers (thanks Hopper Stoppers - LOL)

Bare bones now. Time to weld on some more cage and bog some dents.

It is only money, we are planning to have none for a while

You are going to pull the old stickers off aren't you - LOL
 
Are you going to pull the front and rear windows out to paint it, it is worthwhile if you intend to paint the inside as well, we regret not doing it to ours
 
Hazel said that you had sent a pic to her phone, she is laid up in bed with a bad back, best I go and look now - yep same pic

Ok so I went down to "start" work on the racecar, then I got enthused and decided on a full rebuild with haltech and turbo to start with. 240 at the wheels at the moment, looking to get 300 to 350 when finished. More pics to come.

I am liking the bottom pic, it is era correct as well

undo the engine bolts, lift the engine up about 25 - 30mm, put some good quality blocks of wood under the engine mounts, this will keep the engine up in the air, no need to disconnect anything to do with the engine, 25-30mm shouldn't hurt anything
 
Then take off the sway bar and the sump should be easy to get out

undo the engine bolts, lift the engine up about 25 - 30mm, put some good quality blocks of wood under the engine mounts, this will keep the engine up in the air, no need to disconnect anything to do with the engine, 25-30mm shouldn't hurt anything
 
Then take off the sway bar and the sump should be easy to get out