Thom

The au short motor in my ute was from an au taxi at pick a part and had 885 000ks on it, when I tore it down for a re ring and bearing it was still within factory tolerances

You've got it, about the only other thing is the bellhousing, it will bolt up to the block but the sump won't bolt to the bellhousing unless you swap to an au bellhousing, I recently found an in car video on an old sd card of my ute circa 2008 after it had the hot 4.0 but before it was tuned, I don't think i ever uploaded it back then because it was a zero to 180 pull, it was quite capable of getting ot of its own way and it lived through 180,000ks of p plater abuse

You've got it, about the only other thing is the bellhousing, it will bolt up to the block but the sump won't bolt to the bellhousing unless you swap to an au bellhousing, I recently found an in car video on an old sd card of my ute circa 2008 after it had the hot 4.0 but before it was tuned, I don't think i ever uploaded it back then because it was a zero to 180 pull, it was quite capable of getting ot of its own way and it lived through 180,000ks of p plater abuse

One thing that can catch you out, the bolts that hold the rag joint to the steering shaft and steering box need to be completely removed not just loosened as the prevent the rag joint from sliding off when still fitted

E series 5.0 can be easy to diagnose some sensor problems, if you have a faulty maf sensor, o2 sensor, air intake temp sensor etc simply unplugging them one at a time and taking the car for a drive and looking for any improvement will head you in the right direction, eg if you have a bad maf unplugging it will make it run better because the ecu has a base table for all the sensors it can refer to to keep the car running, it won't be able to compensate completely but it will run better than when the bad sensor was plugged in, in your case I'd start by checking the maf, then the throttle position sensors, air intake temp sensor, then o2, if none of those being unplugged then you have to chase things like fuel pressure, faulty injectors, distributor/ plugs/ leads etc to find the problem
 
 

General rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10 psi per 1000 rpm is adequate, so in that case you have plenty, you can shim the pressure relief for a little more but unless you are planning to spin it over 6k rpm there's no need, as all you are doing with higher than necessary oil pressure is putting extra load on the oil pump drive, which other than breaking the oil pump drive can cause issues like spark scatter, excessive wear on the distributor drive gear and the distributor housing, in saying all that you do want to make sure you oil pressure relief isn't stuck open and moves freely as while you do have enough oil pressure to not have any problems I've routinely seen stock oil pumps provide 80psi when cold above idle and 65-70psi warm at 4-6000rpm on a freshly rebuilt engine, but that also depends on your bearing tolerances, reading your original post if the pressure relief valve isn't stuck i wouldn't change anything

as Thom said above there's a uni joint that's 2 different sizes for this application

Crossover uni is the easiest and cheapest way to go about it, I can't remember the part number for them any more though, but they are still readily available

Sorry neither of those autos have a bellhousing to suit crossflow, years ago I did hear of a "factory" crossflow btr but I later found out that it was a bellhousing someone had made and tried to pass it off as a factory piece, as far as trans options for a crossflow using factory parts you are limited to what was available in 3 speed automatic xp, and xr to xf as they are all the same bellhousing pattern, so that's Borg warner 30/35 &40, c4, 3 speed manual (non synchronised 1st) synchronised 3 speed manual, 3 speed top loader, top loader, single rail, aisin 5 speeds that were in 3.3 xe's (made of glass) and t5's (good news is with the crossflow t5 bellhousing you can use any falcon 6 cylinder t5 from xf to el) anything else will need adapters or a custom bellhousing to work, ford changed the bellhousing pattern when they went ohc in ea so that rules out the later automatics, once you start talking adapters and modified torque converters the price of a c4 becomes far more affordable   
 

Also 6 cylinder c4 can be made column shift and will fit a falcon tunnel

Sorry neither of those autos have a bellhousing to suit crossflow, years ago I did hear of a "factory" crossflow btr but I later found out that it was a bellhousing someone had made and tried to pass it off as a factory piece, as far as trans options for a crossflow using factory parts you are limited to what was available in 3 speed automatic xp, and xr to xf as they are all the same bellhousing pattern, so that's Borg warner 30/35 &40, c4, 3 speed manual (non synchronised 1st) synchronised 3 speed manual, 3 speed top loader, top loader, single rail, aisin 5 speeds that were in 3.3 xe's (made of glass) and t5's (good news is with the crossflow t5 bellhousing you can use any falcon 6 cylinder t5 from xf to el) anything else will need adapters or a custom bellhousing to work, ford changed the bellhousing pattern when they went ohc in ea so that rules out the later automatics, once you start talking adapters and modified torque converters the price of a c4 becomes far more affordable   
 

I don't think there are c6 to 6 cylinder bellhousings, Ford did make a c4 to 6 cylinder bellhousing though, AFAIK c6 only came with big block and small block bellhousings with the small block variant being pretty rare compared to the big block version

Also 6 cylinder c4 can be made column shift and will fit a falcon tunnel

All e series from ea series 2 have 28 spline 4 pinion btr diffs, the diffs are pretty easy to fit to xe/xf if you do some mixing and matching of e and x series diff bushes, alternatively Nathan's precision machining in Ballarat makes up bushes for the swap, he's a member from this forum (don't think he's active on here any more but his business cand be found on Facebook) and has an xf with a turbo sohc 4.0 that runs 9's using an e series diff, he's successfully done a few drag and drives with the car so he'd be the person to talk to

All e series from ea series 2 have 28 spline 4 pinion btr diffs, the diffs are pretty easy to fit to xe/xf if you do some mixing and matching of e and x series diff bushes, alternatively Nathan's precision machining in Ballarat makes up bushes for the swap, he's a member from this forum (don't think he's active on here any more but his business cand be found on Facebook) and has an xf with a turbo sohc 4.0 that runs 9's using an e series diff, he's successfully done a few drag and drives with the car so he'd be the person to talk to

You will always make more from an OHC over a Crossy for the same kind of work done. Conversely, it would take more money and effort to get a Crossy to perform as well as an OHC.

Stock carby Crossy made 92kW
XF EFI - 120kW
EA 3.9 - 139kW
EB XR6 - 161Kw
ED 4.0 - 148kW
EF 4.0 - 157kW
AU 4.0 -157kW
AU VCT - 172kW

So even going with the least powerful of the OHC motors is a huge step up from even the best of the 4.1 crossflow.

That said, I have big respect for the old crossflow 6. You would treat them like a small-bore, long-stroke, inline 6 version of a Cleveland. They take the same rockers, valve springs, share the same valve layout and combustion chamber design.

Good manifolds are expensive and getting hard to find. The EFI one is ok for stock power, but you'll hit a ceiling pretty quickly as the runners and plenum aren't terribly huge.

In my research on here over the years, it seems like at around 200rwhp, serious work needs to be done to squeeze any more than that out of it.

Folks on here have gotten 250, 300 even, but that's getting wild and not really a street engine any more.

You can't get much bigger valves in there, so you need to go bigger with the cam. You're pretty much limited to flat-tappet unless you spend up big on a custom roller setup.

Porting is a black art on these, as really the only gains come from opening it up more. On a clevo, especially 2Vs, you can gain big just by tidying up all the dags and ridges they come with, but with the Crossy you're already starting with a pretty nicely shaped port, it's just a bit small.

OHC motors can be hopped up too, but they also have their limitations, mainly in cam lift and spring pressure. Too much of either will break the standard rockers and aftermarket ones don't really exist except for custom ones. Jim Mock Motorsports had the gun camshafts for these a while ago, dunno if they're still going.

Hope this rant helps

Gerg

Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk

3 speed manual were usually 3.5:1

Only thing electric in the tank is the fuel gauge sensor, rest of the fuel system is purely mechanical on a carby xflow (unless the car was put on LPG at one point in its life then there will be a lock off solenoid in the fuel line somewhere), there is a mesh screen on the end of the fuel sender in the tank that could have rotted off or collapsed and keeps blocking the fuel sender, your best bet would be to pull the fuel sender out and inspect it

Only thing electric in the tank is the fuel gauge sensor, rest of the fuel system is purely mechanical on a carby xflow (unless the car was put on LPG at one point in its life then there will be a lock off solenoid in the fuel line somewhere), there is a mesh screen on the end of the fuel sender in the tank that could have rotted off or collapsed and keeps blocking the fuel sender, your best bet would be to pull the fuel sender out and inspect it

that laquery goop is what old fuel does when it goes rancid(or crusty crystals with the recent fuels)
the tank pick up has a plastic screen on it that can plug up with the same gunk.  there's nothing in it after that, just a pipe. 
 
i'd also check it still pulls from  the bottle so you can confirm it's not blocked from goop since initially running.  
did you have a filter in the system for the bottle setup? 
i'd pull the tank sender/pick up out and have a look again. 
 
BARN FIND ADDS VALUE ... NOT! (maybe if you like working on crusty fuel lines, brake lines, perished rubber everything.) 
there's also hose leak  potential (sucking air) from rusty metal lines and or other rubber sections to the tank.  
really need to treat it as 5 different sections now and rule out any issues in each one

You can adjust them by checking continuity with a multimeter while moving it, they don't have a lot of movement but they have enough to be adjusted back to working at times

You can adjust them by checking continuity with a multimeter while moving it, they don't have a lot of movement but they have enough to be adjusted back to working at times

If there is a blockage (and you've checked the rubber hose isn't cracked suckin air like Dean said) in the line or pickup you can usually clear it by blowing compressed air backwards through the fuel line to clear it, unfortunately that will dump whatever is in the lines in the tank, its probably a good idea to pull the sender out of the tank and clean it and clean the fuel line while the sender is off

Blocked vent in the fuel cap.?? Try running it without the cap on. Sounds like a blocked filter, maybe one under the car where you can't see it.?

If there is a blockage (and you've checked the rubber hose isn't cracked suckin air like Dean said) in the line or pickup you can usually clear it by blowing compressed air backwards through the fuel line to clear it, unfortunately that will dump whatever is in the lines in the tank, its probably a good idea to pull the sender out of the tank and clean it and clean the fuel line while the sender is off