jca25

if there is enough length still on the line(probably is) you can just put a new nut and have it flared on the end also.. (cut off with hack saw etc)
i've had that done before when i've fitted E series diffs to XE XF before the adapter was known about(fitting X series nuts on E series brake line to the T hose block) was probably $10 for the nuts and flares done

i acutually just got an idea(i hate those"pipe" spanners aka nut rounders) 
i usually use a GOOD sidchrome shifter on the brake line nuts, tighten it once its on the nut and shock it undone, i have had to use vise grips before.
BUT! i recon if you ground flats on the pipe spanner that vice grips could clamp onto also.. would be better(if there is space)
those hard lines don't cost much to make, if you went to Campbelfield, you were near Highway Clutch and Brake at 189 Barry Rd Campbelfield http://www.highwayclutch.com.au/
 
 

Ill let u know how things go cheers

When I was in the brake shops that's all we would use for a rounded nut

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I have a pair of those too but i fear that they arent gonna work either im thinking they will slip off too, but ill give it a go thanks mate👍

A pair of vice grips, but I use to hit the nut with a punch first just to give a shock and it should come loose

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The van now has a V8 in it, there was 3 manifolds there was a lot of fine tuning that needed doing to the system but worked well the way it was

The van now has a V8 in it, there was 3 manifolds there was a lot of fine tuning that needed doing to the system but worked well the way it was

I was thinking more like this (although the runners are long): http://www.myrideisme.com/Blog/cam-design-guide-for-weber-carbs/weber_intake/
What you have done, certainly looks the part though.

Yeah Mark (xtreme karts) mentioned that

i just found out something..


when i right click open image in new tab the pic can be seen(photobucket broken link) so therefore, can be screenprint.. or snipping tool saved.

sic

The van now has a V8 in it, there was 3 manifolds there was a lot of fine tuning that needed doing to the system but worked well the way it was

There is a pic in my thread of my panel van with triple downdaughts webber's (1980 xd panelvan) just need the pic fix thing to see it

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Downdaughts would be cool, no tower clearance issues then.

You might find it easier getting a whole car. There are plenty of flogged out ea/ebs you could pick up cheaper than buying all the individual bits from wreckers

Its not too bad to swap the loom and all the sensors if you pull the intake off and there is enough room in the log manifold wiring to re arrange it to suit bbm

I'll be keeping the whole au motor as its going in a au car, the street strocks are just a cheap class to run not aloud any real work as they go both ways on the track but to run the later models cars u have to have the ecu locked and sealed using a ea or eb ecu which i have just found out, its been enough fun building the excel

As Thom said. The only other difference is the block, the bolt holes for the reinforcement brackets that run from the side of the block down to the bottom of the trans bellhousing have been filled and it’s different around the top where the p/s pump go. Nothing that can’t be fixed though. I’d keep the AU sump if you can.

Au still has the dizzy hole, it just has a plug that drives the oil pump, pull it out and an e series dizzy goes straight in

Keep trying u can make anything work with time i run ef inner door handles on a xd
 

 
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Keep trying u can make anything work with time i run ef inner door handles on a xd
 

 
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Keep trying u can make anything work with time i run ef inner door handles on a xd
 

 
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Nice write up Jack should help out a few that needs help with the dual tank setup
 
Jason

Awesome thanks heaps for that, will get under and see what I've got left to work with. Might have the lines on diff but if going from rest of the car it may be a complete redo haha
 
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