jca25

This could be interesting Jas.

Now i have to go backwards on a au race and run a ea ecu with a el dizzy, so this would in a sense be drama, will i end up with or not in ur knowledge?

Cheers Jason

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Ok guys, Outback Jack here.
Now a few of you guys have converted your earlier EA-ED and XG's to an EL ecu and maybe a j3 chip tune as well.
 
Now when I first did mine, I was told to leave the timing as per Standard XG timing, which is 10 BTDC.
 
Later I was told 0 degrees or TDC as per EL ecu.
 
Now we all know that EA-ED and XG run 10BTDC and there is a TDC timing mark and a IGN mark which is 10BTDC and where you set the timing in base timing mode.
 
On an EL there is only TDC timing mark or 0 degrees BTDC which is where you set the base timing.
 
I just wanted to know from other people on here, where have you set your base timing after an EL ecu conversion?
With or without j3.
 
I am being told that EA-ED and XG are exactly the same base timing as EL.
Which is not right.
 
To my logic 0 degrees or TDC would be the Base timing required as the motors are basically the same but the ECU has been changed and thus changing the base timing to suit is required.
 
Also that by running the standard EA-ED and XG base timing of 10BTDC would mean the timing is +10 degrees through the whole timing curve as EL has a base timing of 0 or TDC.
 
Interested in what others have done and which timing is correct in this situation.
 
Cheers!
 
Jack.
 
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Wagon is the go then. You'll obviously have to swap gears out if going into a sedan.

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gli and futura Sedans went to 3.08 as a standard ratio from eb to au, fairmonts and fairlane were 3.23 standard, xr6 and 6 cylinder fairmont ghia were 3.45's xr8 (and 5.0l in general) had 3.23 open diffs until el then xr8 came standard with 3.45, but most ratios were optional and available in all models  

If you know what it came out of, that would give some clue.
 
Sedans still had 2.92, wagons 3.23, utes 3.27, XR sedan I dunno maybe 3.27, XR ute 3.45?
 
Pop the hat off,will only take 10 min max, and the ratio will be etched on the crownwheel.
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Not sure mate, but if there's one thing I've learnt is to not trust anything anymore - lots of parts interchange and anyone could have done so in the past.
 
Jack a rear wheel up so it can turn freely. With the handbrake off and the wheel chocked, put the car in neutral and turn that wheel one full turn. Have someone look underneath at the tailshaft and record how many turns it does. It helps if you put a mark on it first.
 
The number of turns is your diff ratio, eg 3 turns will be a 2.92 or 3.08, 2.7 turns a 2.72, 3 and a quarter a 3.23 and so on.
 
 - boingk

Xd and xe were the same in 6cyl and v8 the only ones i found were bigger was the fairlanes autos as the booster would cover were the clutch master is so u couldn't do a manual, i maybe wrong and I'm sure someone will correct me if i am

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I use to have one in the shed but got rid of it in my last clean up as it would of never fitted the van being a manual but yea they are bigger

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There not to bad to reco urself if u take ur time but i don't recommend for the faint hearted i did it for a job for many yrs lol so easy for me to say, i did do a bit of a write on here if u want a look or ask away

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Xd and xe were the same in 6cyl and v8 the only ones i found were bigger was the fairlanes autos as the booster would cover were the clutch master is so u couldn't do a manual, i maybe wrong and I'm sure someone will correct me if i am

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Yeah, the old booster in my FC was HUGE..!!  Factory 351.

I understand this to be correct also.

Xd and xe were the same in 6cyl and v8 the only ones i found were bigger was the fairlanes autos as the booster would cover were the clutch master is so u couldn't do a manual, i maybe wrong and I'm sure someone will correct me if i am

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Cheers mate but don't make feel to special, my head will to big hahaha

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*is great...
@jca4's tutorial, will always be the original, and the best. 🙂
 

Don't sell yourself short mate, your info was great. Thanks for posting.
It's stuff like this that helps anyone doing up the old Fords. 
Excellent thread. 

Thanks jca4 
I have since bought a second hand one which works ok but would still like to rebuild the original one.
So I will check some brake shops and let you know how i go.

Hey mate you are un able to buy a kit for them but if you going into a brake shop they should be able to get the parts for you or even a local ABS shop if you have no luck let me know i may be able to get them for you from my old work place and send them on to you
 
 
Hey Dave found in finally been busy with work so have been bit quite on here but i'm around 

Update. Sourced another caliper and kitting it as we speak. Will throw up some pics of the old one when it gets back.

Mate that owns it has a removalist company I'm sure he could drop off if u are keen

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Mate that owns it has a removalist company I'm sure he could drop off if u are keen

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The handbrake cam tunnel, can be stainless steel sleeved, if it's badly pitted.
Same as you can do, for brake master cylinders.

Yep, this  ^ ^ ^.  

Mate that owns it has a removalist company I'm sure he could drop off if u are keen

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Why is the housing getting honed out its only there really to hold the seal in place, the piston is what u need to be looking at to see it has any marks

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