ando76

See don't be fooled by the double spring debacle. Modern bee hive springs have a much better rate and control over the valve thru the complete range of movement, compared to rock ape old 80's thinking double spring garbage. 
Now you can get a great single beehive spring that will comfortably handle .620" lift and big duration and roller profiles. 
Its all about matching the spring to the cam, head flow figures with manifold attached and cam type. Get it wrong and you will waste mechanical effort at best, at worse you will wipe lobs and generally have an underperforming s..tbox. Cam manufactures guidleines are close enough for mild to medium performance applications. 

If your 91 is as good as the stuff we get over here then go for the 96. I have a specific gravity fuel tester and I can tell you some of the stuff is crazy bad. Not what you need if your pushing the envelope 

If your 91 is as good as the stuff we get over here then go for the 96. I have a specific gravity fuel tester and I can tell you some of the stuff is crazy bad. Not what you need if your pushing the envelope 

If your 91 is as good as the stuff we get over here then go for the 96. I have a specific gravity fuel tester and I can tell you some of the stuff is crazy bad. Not what you need if your pushing the envelope 

Fantastic offer Crazy2287, really appreciate it, but I don't have anything ordered.  Enjoy your vacation!  I'm chatting with Kelford Cams in Christchurch right now and looks like he has something similar to the Crow speedway cams so I will see if that might be a solution.  Although I think I will be looking for an aussiespeed manifold in the nearish future.
To answer the older question, octane ratings here are 91 and 96.  I'd like to use 91 for cost, but in all reality, petrol is the cheapest thing about jetboating   I imagine the same thing is true for speedway.
 

See don't be fooled by the double spring debacle. Modern bee hive springs have a much better rate and control over the valve thru the complete range of movement, compared to rock ape old 80's thinking double spring garbage. 
Now you can get a great single beehive spring that will comfortably handle .620" lift and big duration and roller profiles. 
Its all about matching the spring to the cam, head flow figures with manifold attached and cam type. Get it wrong and you will waste mechanical effort at best, at worse you will wipe lobs and generally have an underperforming s..tbox. Cam manufactures guidleines are close enough for mild to medium performance applications. 

Boosted engines require greater spring control due to a number of factors. Increased cylinder pressure, Increased ex temps being just a few. You also want to look at hardened locks and good collets for serious boosted engines that see decent rpm. 

Boosted engines require greater spring control due to a number of factors. Increased cylinder pressure, Increased ex temps being just a few. You also want to look at hardened locks and good collets for serious boosted engines that see decent rpm. 

See don't be fooled by the double spring debacle. Modern bee hive springs have a much better rate and control over the valve thru the complete range of movement, compared to rock ape old 80's thinking double spring garbage. 
Now you can get a great single beehive spring that will comfortably handle .620" lift and big duration and roller profiles. 
Its all about matching the spring to the cam, head flow figures with manifold attached and cam type. Get it wrong and you will waste mechanical effort at best, at worse you will wipe lobs and generally have an underperforming s..tbox. Cam manufactures guidleines are close enough for mild to medium performance applications. 

Back at the flow bench this arvo with the cylinder head for HADES, the dedicated e85, 4 barrel customer engine I'm building. Pleasing results and will be a great match for the Aussiespeed 4 barrel manifold. Should make some solid numbers.

LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️

Flying into Queenstown on wednesday next week. If you get a cam before then I can bring it over for ya.

What ignition inputs does it need. Cylinder position and a home like most - and what type of signal (magnetic - magnetic, hall - magnetic or Hall - hall). Cylinder poisition is easy enough using Hall.  home could be a little difficult.  
Clarko and I have just finished the crossflow specific crank trigger kits. Uses msd magnets and sensors. 

My exact point. If you follow the guidelines and target 12.8 you could burn a cylinder with the Redline. Modify it to 12.0 and watch 1&6 in particular and you would be on a winner. But if your spending the coin to have a nice cruiser, why not spend the coin on a manifold with even flow-balance. It's not all about making hp&torque although that is good. It's about making a happy engine. Happy engines make more power and torque and use less fuel to do it. That makes for a good cruiser in my opinion. 
The gain most experience when going to triples is largely due to even cylinder fill.  

My exact point. If you follow the guidelines and target 12.8 you could burn a cylinder with the Redline. Modify it to 12.0 and watch 1&6 in particular and you would be on a winner. But if your spending the coin to have a nice cruiser, why not spend the coin on a manifold with even flow-balance. It's not all about making hp&torque although that is good. It's about making a happy engine. Happy engines make more power and torque and use less fuel to do it. That makes for a good cruiser in my opinion. 
The gain most experience when going to triples is largely due to even cylinder fill.  

Wouldnt the sniper kit allow the tuner to select a targeted a/f ratio. This will make the tune safe but not ideal for all out power. Set the a/f so the leanest cylinders are safe going off plug readings? Covers the uneven cylinder flow. Iv done something similar on my efi set up with xf banana manifold but mines turbo so rich is good for me.

What ignition inputs does it need. Cylinder position and a home like most - and what type of signal (magnetic - magnetic, hall - magnetic or Hall - hall). Cylinder poisition is easy enough using Hall.  home could be a little difficult.  
Clarko and I have just finished the crossflow specific crank trigger kits. Uses msd magnets and sensors. 

Yeah. There are a lot of redline manifolds out there, because once upon a time, that's all you could get.  Then blokes like Ian 'moo' Moody (ultraflow) and Ray Hall started to make manifolds that actually flowed close to even and weren't just a spot to put a carb on. 
The new Aussiespeed 2 barrel manifold is an awesome bit of kit.  Very even cylinder fill.  Yes they are expensive, but hey quality costs and spending hours on a dyno chasing your tail is also expensive. If the budget isn't there I'd be searching for a second hand ultraflow. 
I may be playing devils advocate here but I see problems ahead with getting the tune right with the Redline.  Why? Because the ecu will be getting a read on the mixture and will then trim to suit and it may well trim to the point that it burns the lean (better flowing) cylinders.  I've spent a considerable amount of time carb tuning these engines and doing plug reads and egt monitoring to try and get the best possible tune when you don't have ideal flow balance between runners. 
Its not uncommon to run different plug heat ranges, richer afr target than you normally would go just to try and keep cylinders from running lean. I've known builders to run less comp on certain cylinders to address manifold imbalance. Of course I'm usually dealing with engines that spend most of their lives between 3500&6500.  It sounds like this engine will not be given a hard time so it may all work out fine. 
Id be keeping a close eye on plugs all the same. The algorithms and target afr's might just be too smart for their own good.  Having said that if you can get into it and tell it to target 12.0 instead of 12.8 then it should all be fine. 

Yeah. There are a lot of redline manifolds out there, because once upon a time, that's all you could get.  Then blokes like Ian 'moo' Moody (ultraflow) and Ray Hall started to make manifolds that actually flowed close to even and weren't just a spot to put a carb on. 
The new Aussiespeed 2 barrel manifold is an awesome bit of kit.  Very even cylinder fill.  Yes they are expensive, but hey quality costs and spending hours on a dyno chasing your tail is also expensive. If the budget isn't there I'd be searching for a second hand ultraflow. 
I may be playing devils advocate here but I see problems ahead with getting the tune right with the Redline.  Why? Because the ecu will be getting a read on the mixture and will then trim to suit and it may well trim to the point that it burns the lean (better flowing) cylinders.  I've spent a considerable amount of time carb tuning these engines and doing plug reads and egt monitoring to try and get the best possible tune when you don't have ideal flow balance between runners. 
Its not uncommon to run different plug heat ranges, richer afr target than you normally would go just to try and keep cylinders from running lean. I've known builders to run less comp on certain cylinders to address manifold imbalance. Of course I'm usually dealing with engines that spend most of their lives between 3500&6500.  It sounds like this engine will not be given a hard time so it may all work out fine. 
Id be keeping a close eye on plugs all the same. The algorithms and target afr's might just be too smart for their own good.  Having said that if you can get into it and tell it to target 12.0 instead of 12.8 then it should all be fine. 

Yeah. There are a lot of redline manifolds out there, because once upon a time, that's all you could get.  Then blokes like Ian 'moo' Moody (ultraflow) and Ray Hall started to make manifolds that actually flowed close to even and weren't just a spot to put a carb on. 
The new Aussiespeed 2 barrel manifold is an awesome bit of kit.  Very even cylinder fill.  Yes they are expensive, but hey quality costs and spending hours on a dyno chasing your tail is also expensive. If the budget isn't there I'd be searching for a second hand ultraflow. 
I may be playing devils advocate here but I see problems ahead with getting the tune right with the Redline.  Why? Because the ecu will be getting a read on the mixture and will then trim to suit and it may well trim to the point that it burns the lean (better flowing) cylinders.  I've spent a considerable amount of time carb tuning these engines and doing plug reads and egt monitoring to try and get the best possible tune when you don't have ideal flow balance between runners. 
Its not uncommon to run different plug heat ranges, richer afr target than you normally would go just to try and keep cylinders from running lean. I've known builders to run less comp on certain cylinders to address manifold imbalance. Of course I'm usually dealing with engines that spend most of their lives between 3500&6500.  It sounds like this engine will not be given a hard time so it may all work out fine. 
Id be keeping a close eye on plugs all the same. The algorithms and target afr's might just be too smart for their own good.  Having said that if you can get into it and tell it to target 12.0 instead of 12.8 then it should all be fine. 

If you have adjustable timing gear you can always advance or retard the cam to get the peak torque where you need it. So don't be too scared of getting a cam that says it performs at 5500 RPM because you can just put in a couple of degrees advanced and bring that torque down to the 4500 RPM Mark.

They are a massive improvement over the stock junk.  I had a before and after graph on my business page but the link was with post img and now I can't retrieve it.  From memory it was 20hp gain and about 40 ft lbs.  
when you say poor fuel over there - what octane rating is it?  Just remember an alloy head will take more comp than an iron head and the c2 has a very good chamber shape (being a closed chamber) and is less prone to pinging. 
If you have to keep the comp below 10:1 and your looking at a cam upgrade, make sure you look at the cam grinders recommendations. Camtech cams are good at providing recommended comp.  If you follow their guidelines you won't go wrong. 

They are a massive improvement over the stock junk.  I had a before and after graph on my business page but the link was with post img and now I can't retrieve it.  From memory it was 20hp gain and about 40 ft lbs.  
when you say poor fuel over there - what octane rating is it?  Just remember an alloy head will take more comp than an iron head and the c2 has a very good chamber shape (being a closed chamber) and is less prone to pinging. 
If you have to keep the comp below 10:1 and your looking at a cam upgrade, make sure you look at the cam grinders recommendations. Camtech cams are good at providing recommended comp.  If you follow their guidelines you won't go wrong. 

They are a massive improvement over the stock junk.  I had a before and after graph on my business page but the link was with post img and now I can't retrieve it.  From memory it was 20hp gain and about 40 ft lbs.  
when you say poor fuel over there - what octane rating is it?  Just remember an alloy head will take more comp than an iron head and the c2 has a very good chamber shape (being a closed chamber) and is less prone to pinging. 
If you have to keep the comp below 10:1 and your looking at a cam upgrade, make sure you look at the cam grinders recommendations. Camtech cams are good at providing recommended comp.  If you follow their guidelines you won't go wrong. 

They are a massive improvement over the stock junk.  I had a before and after graph on my business page but the link was with post img and now I can't retrieve it.  From memory it was 20hp gain and about 40 ft lbs.  
when you say poor fuel over there - what octane rating is it?  Just remember an alloy head will take more comp than an iron head and the c2 has a very good chamber shape (being a closed chamber) and is less prone to pinging. 
If you have to keep the comp below 10:1 and your looking at a cam upgrade, make sure you look at the cam grinders recommendations. Camtech cams are good at providing recommended comp.  If you follow their guidelines you won't go wrong.